RC8Be won't turn/pushing
08-19-2013, 06:35 PM
#1
RC8Be won't turn/pushing
Hi guys.
New at all this so be gentle.
I bought an AE RC8Be a little while ago, second hand.
Completely stripped it and put it back together as per the manual EXCEPT the shock setup.
5/5/5 in the diffs
Silver sway bars front and rear
Tekin 1700/HW 150a xerun
18/46 gearing.
I checked the shock oil and it was clean and clear, so I left it in. I have no idea what weight it is.
Still has the stock 6 hole pistons.
It has silver springs on the front, and dark blue springs on the back. Again I have no idea how heavy/light or what brand they are.
Anyway. Apart from having the wrong tires for the track, I was having some serious issues getting it to turn. Alls it wants to do is push.
Off power it's not too bad, but will still push, if you're VERY gentle on the throttle it's better, but as soon as you give it the smallest amount of too much throttle it goes back to under steering.
The rear end seems to bounce around alot on the track while the front seems reasonably planted and stable.
I'm happy with how it goes on power, pulls nice and straight (once it stops spinning the wheels) and flys pretty well if I manage to line up the jump well enough. It's just a pig to get around corners.
I'm going to go and double check all my toe/camber/caster settings to make sure nothing out of the ordinary is wrong there.
Oh. Track is a large outdoor track, hard clay, med grip, bumpy, dry.
But what should I start looking at (apart from better tires)
The tires in the pic are proline blockades, extremely worn. I also have aka cityblocks with 90% tread.
I tried both at the track. Had the same pushing issues with both.
Oh. Ignore where the springs are set. I've changed them since then trying to get it to handle better
New at all this so be gentle.
I bought an AE RC8Be a little while ago, second hand.
Completely stripped it and put it back together as per the manual EXCEPT the shock setup.
5/5/5 in the diffs
Silver sway bars front and rear
Tekin 1700/HW 150a xerun
18/46 gearing.
I checked the shock oil and it was clean and clear, so I left it in. I have no idea what weight it is.
Still has the stock 6 hole pistons.
It has silver springs on the front, and dark blue springs on the back. Again I have no idea how heavy/light or what brand they are.
Anyway. Apart from having the wrong tires for the track, I was having some serious issues getting it to turn. Alls it wants to do is push.
Off power it's not too bad, but will still push, if you're VERY gentle on the throttle it's better, but as soon as you give it the smallest amount of too much throttle it goes back to under steering.
The rear end seems to bounce around alot on the track while the front seems reasonably planted and stable.
I'm happy with how it goes on power, pulls nice and straight (once it stops spinning the wheels) and flys pretty well if I manage to line up the jump well enough. It's just a pig to get around corners.
I'm going to go and double check all my toe/camber/caster settings to make sure nothing out of the ordinary is wrong there.
Oh. Track is a large outdoor track, hard clay, med grip, bumpy, dry.
But what should I start looking at (apart from better tires)
The tires in the pic are proline blockades, extremely worn. I also have aka cityblocks with 90% tread.
I tried both at the track. Had the same pushing issues with both.
Oh. Ignore where the springs are set. I've changed them since then trying to get it to handle better
08-19-2013, 08:29 PM
#6
Get a new set of tires before anything. I never had Cityblocks last long in a soft compound.
But with tires that warn out it can cause that issue.
I have a RC8TCE if i remember on the Front shock tower you flip the plastic inserts with the dots pointed up if i remember to get more turn in. And it will give you turn in !!
Check your tuning manuel.
But with tires that warn out it can cause that issue.
I have a RC8TCE if i remember on the Front shock tower you flip the plastic inserts with the dots pointed up if i remember to get more turn in. And it will give you turn in !!
Check your tuning manuel.
08-19-2013, 09:44 PM
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
Been a while since I sold my rc8be FT but sure was fun too bad I have to drive 45 min to a decent track...sold it kept my electronics and dumped it into an sc8e as a basher.
Anyways....
If youre getting too much bouncing like you mentioned since you run in a lot of hard packed uneven surfaces, I would change to a little thicker shock oil in the rear. Perhaps 40-55wt 3 piston worked well for me. And as far as the springs you have to adjust per track if you really want your buggy to perform. That's why springs and shocks are so easy to rebuild and change out at the pit.
Front suspension is much easier. Just load up your lipos and your body then look at your buggy dead on. The front lower arms need to be parallel to the ground for optimum traction and balance. The front shocks I run 2 hole pistons with 35 wt and if I think firm springs. You want the front to always be planted down so keep your front suspension settings light so the tires stay o. The ground even at full take off.
Center diff fluid and tuning is a whole nother story but keeping 5-7k on dirt tracks is fine. I run 10,000 in my sc8e bc it's a street truck and I want instant power off the line since I'm just bashing around and not making crazy turns on a track.
Now you say there's a lot of under steer when entering a turn, that just means your front differential is either not filled to the little edge and causing the spider gears I the differential be more "open" diff rather than a limited slip effect which is what you want throug a turn. (make sure don't put too much!). Watch some YouTube videos and you can see how most racers do it. Also
Always have a caliper in your tool bag and bring it with you to the track practice or race days. This tool is just as important as an IR thermometer!
Good luck and welcome to the addiction of racing! If you need anymore help, we are always here for you. Unlike some flamers on here who just cruise around talking nonsense for HOURS of there day on several different sections of rctech....you'll bump into them every now and then. Just report them to a mod and he will be suspended for a while. People that think they know it all are the ones that the most stubborn.
We're just grown men enjoying a hobby fellas. No need to get hostile over toys.
Anyways....
If youre getting too much bouncing like you mentioned since you run in a lot of hard packed uneven surfaces, I would change to a little thicker shock oil in the rear. Perhaps 40-55wt 3 piston worked well for me. And as far as the springs you have to adjust per track if you really want your buggy to perform. That's why springs and shocks are so easy to rebuild and change out at the pit.
Front suspension is much easier. Just load up your lipos and your body then look at your buggy dead on. The front lower arms need to be parallel to the ground for optimum traction and balance. The front shocks I run 2 hole pistons with 35 wt and if I think firm springs. You want the front to always be planted down so keep your front suspension settings light so the tires stay o. The ground even at full take off.
Center diff fluid and tuning is a whole nother story but keeping 5-7k on dirt tracks is fine. I run 10,000 in my sc8e bc it's a street truck and I want instant power off the line since I'm just bashing around and not making crazy turns on a track.
Now you say there's a lot of under steer when entering a turn, that just means your front differential is either not filled to the little edge and causing the spider gears I the differential be more "open" diff rather than a limited slip effect which is what you want throug a turn. (make sure don't put too much!). Watch some YouTube videos and you can see how most racers do it. Also
Always have a caliper in your tool bag and bring it with you to the track practice or race days. This tool is just as important as an IR thermometer!
Good luck and welcome to the addiction of racing! If you need anymore help, we are always here for you. Unlike some flamers on here who just cruise around talking nonsense for HOURS of there day on several different sections of rctech....you'll bump into them every now and then. Just report them to a mod and he will be suspended for a while. People that think they know it all are the ones that the most stubborn.
We're just grown men enjoying a hobby fellas. No need to get hostile over toys.
08-19-2013, 09:58 PM
#9
blockades and cityblocks are fine at Blakey's. Medium square pins are optimal - blockades/square armor/etc. Revolvers if you can stay on the line. Big Blox and diamondbacks also work.
In addition to the droop suggestions, I'd suggest to rejig the shocks - switch to whatever the RC8BE go-to setup is (figure out what you have, get the right springs, pistons, oil). Also check your ride height. And your steering throw.
In addition to the droop suggestions, I'd suggest to rejig the shocks - switch to whatever the RC8BE go-to setup is (figure out what you have, get the right springs, pistons, oil). Also check your ride height. And your steering throw.
08-19-2013, 10:39 PM
#10
Thanks for the help guys.
I have a few things to check.
Glad to hear that the cityblocks are fine for Blakeys. Means that it's something in my setup that's causing the issue.
I did have 'the' setup sheet for the rc8b but I've lost it and can't seem to find it again. But I'm going to make a few changes and see how I go on the heatly track. (Bad understeer there as well) For testing til I can get out to Blakeys on the weekend again.
Silvalis, could you tell me what the description of the Blakeys (and heatly) track is in regards to high/low/med grip, hardness, surface type etc? The usual stuff that RC'ers tend to talk about?
I was just guessing before
Thanks
I have a few things to check.
Glad to hear that the cityblocks are fine for Blakeys. Means that it's something in my setup that's causing the issue.
I did have 'the' setup sheet for the rc8b but I've lost it and can't seem to find it again. But I'm going to make a few changes and see how I go on the heatly track. (Bad understeer there as well) For testing til I can get out to Blakeys on the weekend again.
Silvalis, could you tell me what the description of the Blakeys (and heatly) track is in regards to high/low/med grip, hardness, surface type etc? The usual stuff that RC'ers tend to talk about?
I was just guessing before
Thanks
08-20-2013, 05:32 AM
#11
uh.
If you run on Friday's, I'd call it medium-low traction/moist clay. starts sandy then progresses to dusty. fairly loose surface, should get better after a few weeks as the top will sweep off slowly.
Sundays, not sure if they were watering. If it's dry, i'd say dusty/medium/hardpack.
Heatley's clay is from the same place, but doesn't have as much sand content. So you should eventually see Blakeys turn to something similar.
If you run on Friday's, I'd call it medium-low traction/moist clay. starts sandy then progresses to dusty. fairly loose surface, should get better after a few weeks as the top will sweep off slowly.
Sundays, not sure if they were watering. If it's dry, i'd say dusty/medium/hardpack.
Heatley's clay is from the same place, but doesn't have as much sand content. So you should eventually see Blakeys turn to something similar.
08-20-2013, 05:11 PM
#12
Awesome. Thanks for that silvalis
Ok. From what I can see the rear springs are ae springs, 3.75 rate. They also have 3.25 and 3.55 rates.
Fronts are ae, 4.3 rate. They also have a 4 and a 4.65 for the front.
Haven't had a chance to make any changes yet. Though I did get some 32.5wt and 35wt shock oils last night.
But going to try the height/droop etc before changing the oil.
Ok. From what I can see the rear springs are ae springs, 3.75 rate. They also have 3.25 and 3.55 rates.
Fronts are ae, 4.3 rate. They also have a 4 and a 4.65 for the front.
Haven't had a chance to make any changes yet. Though I did get some 32.5wt and 35wt shock oils last night.
But going to try the height/droop etc before changing the oil.
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