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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 05-08-2015, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by s1a1om
Just want clarification on this. Based on what I've read in "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Milliken & Milliken, more lateral grip is one of the best ways of making a race car faster since it will allow you to carry more speed through the turns. Why wouldn't we want more here, if it is achievable?
It is a balancing act. Anytime your adding to one aspect of handling you are taking away from another. I used to think I needed to run the CVD spacer for increased side bite, but after a conversation with Dustin Evans he mentioned he rarely ran that spacer, so I removed the spacer and found side bite was much better than the 1.0 rear side bite was. Have not ran the spacer since. I will use it as a tuning aid moving forward, but I have not struggled with side bite since moving to the 2.0. Overall the geometry of the 2.0 is much better than the 1.0. It allows for better traction over a wider range of conditions.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:05 AM
  #11387  
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Originally Posted by s1a1om
Just want clarification on this. Based on what I've read in "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Milliken & Milliken, more lateral grip is one of the best ways of making a race car faster since it will allow you to carry more speed through the turns. Why wouldn't we want more here, if it is achievable?
That "fix" was really a crutch for the 1.0. Other changes have been made that have improved the lateral grip.

Also, if you have too much lateral grip in the front or rear, and create an imbalance of under or over-steer, then the speed of the car will be limited. I agree that is you can increase lateral grip evenly front and rear, that speed will increase. BUT... in off-road, there is a balance. You have to compromise the shock setup to not only work well in the turns, but off jumps and through bumps. You also need a car to roll well, but change directions well also. Ultimately, there are very little absolute statements about off-road suspension geometry changes from my experience.
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Old 05-09-2015, 03:47 PM
  #11388  
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The manual recommends 70/35 gearing for a 17.5 motor and I see most people are running a 70 tooth spur for a 17.5 motor. If I wanted to stay with the 78 spur gear, what size pinion should I start with? I was thinking a 30 tooth pinion as a starting point. Is there any reason a 70t spur is favored over the 78t for the 17.5 motor?
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Old 05-09-2015, 04:39 PM
  #11389  
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Originally Posted by Wease
The manual recommends 70/35 gearing for a 17.5 motor and I see most people are running a 70 tooth spur for a 17.5 motor. If I wanted to stay with the 78 spur gear, what size pinion should I start with? I was thinking a 30 tooth pinion as a starting point. Is there any reason a 70t spur is favored over the 78t for the 17.5 motor?
To get the same final gear ratio, you would need a 39 tooth pinion. Don't think it would fit. Spur divided pinion ,times tranny gear ratio(I think its 2.60) Final gear ratio of 5.2. You really don't want a real big spur and a tiny pinion. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rafiki94
To get the same final gear ratio, you would need a 39 tooth pinion. Don't think it would fit. Spur divided pinion ,times tranny gear ratio(I think its 2.60) Final gear ratio of 5.2. You really don't want a real big spur and a tiny pinion. Hope this helps.
Transmission ratio is 2.43 and the new motors are geared way different now. I run a Fantom Ion 5 ss motor and geared 70/28 in my car.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:00 PM
  #11391  
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What would be tell tale signs of a 22 1.0 upgraded to a 2.0? How significant of a difference is the 1.0 from the 2.0?

I picked one up used recently and want to ensure it is legitimately a 2.0. Much appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:05 PM
  #11392  
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Originally Posted by RBraswell
What would be tell tale signs of a 22 1.0 upgraded to a 2.0? How significant of a difference is the 1.0 from the 2.0?

I picked one up used recently and want to ensure it is legitimately a 2.0. Much appreciated.
There are $600 worth of differences but a couple of items are the chassis and the spindle carrier. The 2.0 has a extra hole for retaining the forward rear pivot.


Also the front spindle carrier has 2 camber ball holes.
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-22_1_chassis.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-22_20_chassis.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-22_1_spindle.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-22_20_spindle.jpg  
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:43 AM
  #11393  
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Does this fit right out if the package or is there something else I need to do to it besides the insert thanks I installed it but it seems to not fit right ? Team Losi Racing MM Hinge Pin Brace Brass Weight (35g) . Also the rear arms seem to be binding.
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:40 AM
  #11394  
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Originally Posted by jag5508
Does this fit right out if the package or is there something else I need to do to it besides the insert thanks I installed it but it seems to not fit right ? Team Losi Racing MM Hinge Pin Brace Brass Weight (35g) . Also the rear arms seem to be binding.
yes, it fits right out of the package.

Did you use the 2mm anti-squat shim?
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:53 AM
  #11395  
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Originally Posted by Mudcat981
yes, it fits right out of the package.

Did you use the 2mm anti-squat shim?
Yes I did . Then I took it out seems to be tweeking the chassis either way . I'm using the 2.5 chassis too . Also the rear arms bind not sure what's going on with the rear end .

Last edited by jag5508; 05-13-2015 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:59 AM
  #11396  
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Originally Posted by jag5508
Yes I did . Then I took it out seems to be tweeking the chassis either way . I'm using the 2.5 chassis too . Also the rear arms bind not sure what's going on with the rear end .
Double check to be sure you have the 2.5° insert in the block and the 2.5°shim under the block. Missing one or the other will cause a bind. It happens to the best of us!
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:15 PM
  #11397  
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Originally Posted by jag5508
Yes I did . Then I took it out seems to be tweeking the chassis either way . I'm using the 2.5 chassis too . Also the rear arms bind not sure what's going on with the rear end .
I know this sounds dumb but check to make sure you have the correct arm on the correct side. I got in a hurry once after a tear down and swapped the arms and it was binding that was when I found my mistake.
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:10 PM
  #11398  
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I have a 1 degree anti squat shim under my brass hinge pin block and have no binding. Did I miss something somewhere or am I confused ( very well can be the case ), was it mentioned somewhere you have to use the 2.5 shim under the brass hinge pin block?
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Old 05-13-2015, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma
I have a 1 degree anti squat shim under my brass hinge pin block and have no binding. Did I miss something somewhere or am I confused ( very well can be the case ), was it mentioned somewhere you have to use the 2.5 shim under the brass hinge pin block?
The standard configuration and the one used by most TLR setups is the 2.0 for the buggy, and the 1.0 for the truck.

Did you check to see if the arms are on the correct side? It does happen.
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Old 05-13-2015, 03:21 PM
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Yes they are on the correct sides, and I am using the short chassis. No binding at all. Anti squat can be used as a tuning aide, as I am sure you know. 1 deg happens to work well for me and the track I run on with the buggy. I just thought maybe I missed something that was stated that the 2 - 2.5 anti squat was a must to use with the brass hinge pin block.
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