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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 09-06-2013, 10:14 PM
  #1066  
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Okay, I have tried to read through this forum, and to be honest, one good thread. Nobody putting baloney out or saying stupid stuff like I would expect.

A little background on me, started with a rc10gt and a rc10gt2 back in the day, left the hobby, and came back 2 years ago to a 8ight 2.0 truggy, and then made the big jump to the 4 5ive-T's (I have a basher, a racer, my wifes racer (I can get her to the track occasionally, and thats GREAT), and a spares 5ive-T for my ride.

Notice, nothing electric (okay, my son has a 1/14 8ight 4wd, hes 4 and needs to get into it, but hes mostly driving the sc10gt now), back to what I was saying, nitro or gas, always have, always will.

Then I moved to Phoenix, and its REALLY HOT here 4-5 months out of the year, and although fear farm has 1/8 and (some lame 1/5), the ticket is 2WD indoor. So I had to get a electric car, Most of my list is losi for a reason, so I watched the 4.1 and 4.2 kick the crap out of the 22 1.0 (hard clay, indoor) mostly because I could see the setup was wrong, (over steer, bottom out and chassis bounce on every jump, sliding, etc, etc), and I read about this car (22 2.0) and I pulled the trigger. I've been dragging on a lipo electric 1/10 for some time, I bought a RS PRO / Redline 17.5 Tekin package (TEKTT2131) about 2 months ago, for a good deal < 300.00 and its been sitting, waiting, for a gas/nitro guy to play with.

Then I see the Gen2 RS and gen 2 motors, I spent about 5 minutes wasting your time explaining where I come from, to simply ask:

The RS pro / 17.5 TEKTT2131 is still returnable, should I send it back and go for the TEKTT2422 (Gen2/17.5), I plan on racing novice and the 17.5 seems to be what the RTR come with and is allowed in my novice/beginner class.

My 22 2.0 is due in a couple of days, and I can return the TEKTT2131, so, I am going to bug you all, and ask, keep or change, I plan on staying at the track accepted 17.5, so its a matter of PRO or gen2 on ESC and rev 1 or rev 2 on the 17.5 redline?

THANKS in advance....

a nitro/gas burner for the last 10 years, now playing with electrics, 1/10 AND 2WD...

-John

Last edited by Dave H; 09-07-2013 at 05:08 AM. Reason: language - multiple
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:10 AM
  #1067  
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For those who wish to convert their original 22's, it appears Losi Parts House has a few of the new suspension parts in stock. So far they have the new front and rear arms, front spindles and hubs.
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:14 AM
  #1068  
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So for those who are running stock, where are you currently running your shorty at?

Also i just have frank roots standard 22 setup; i was just wonder what else should i change for low bite tracks?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:02 AM
  #1069  
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Originally Posted by Manatarms25
How long are you guys letting your o rings soak before you build your shocks ?
It isn't that big of a deal to soak them that long before you build them. If they can sit 24 hours before you run them, then that should help reduce the mild weeping. If you build them brand new, and run them within an hour, they don't "leak" anywhere as bad as the old 22 o-rings/molded shock pieces, but will just weep a little bit. Once they swell up over 24-48 hours, they won't even weep barely at all .

Be sure to run the machined shock parts with the new X-Rings. We've had some instances of these x-rings with the molded shock parts leaking some, and sucking in air. They x-rings and machined shock parts really work in unison with each other.

Originally Posted by tfrahm
Feeling pretty bummed out... My 2.0 was part of a 3-kit pre order by my local hobby shop... They received exactly NONE, and Horizon already shows 'out of stock', so they won't be getting any until the next batch...
Horizon is not out of stock, I can tell you that for a fact. You hobby shop may have had an ordering error? Have them call their sales rep Monday and they'll be able to get more kits headed their way.

Originally Posted by 3srcracing
So for those who are running stock, where are you currently running your shorty at?

Also i just have frank roots standard 22 setup; i was just wonder what else should i change for low bite tracks?

Thanks in advance.
John Schultz has his battery tray in the back/shorty position, with the battery all the way forward.

I'd suggest starting with my 22 2.0 standard setup, be sure not to use 22 setups for the 2.0, they are quite a bit different.
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:19 AM
  #1070  
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Frank Im putting my Team Associated B4.1wc on the shelf and I just ordered the 22 2.0 last night. Everyone says the b4 is a great inside car and the 22 2.0 is a great outside car. Can you explain why that is.
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Old 09-07-2013, 05:13 AM
  #1071  
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Originally Posted by trixter91
Frank Im putting my Team Associated B4.1wc on the shelf and I just ordered the 22 2.0 last night. Everyone says the b4 is a great inside car and the 22 2.0 is a great outside car. Can you explain why that is.
Who is everyone? The 22 2.0 is just hitting the streets....
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:18 AM
  #1072  
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Thanks CUDA; I had too sand quite a bit-used 220 paper,may have been too fine but got it done. The overall height of the housing ended up being .660.
Build is going great,hope too race it Sunnday.
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:18 AM
  #1073  
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Default build and first race comments...

I found the build uneventful.

After getting the front end fully built and torqued, I gave the steering rack one swipe each on the top and bottom edge of the rack - done...perfect fit.

The shocks and diff were a surprise. The combination of the machined parts, x-rings and the new shafts made for a system that I would for the first time say is equal or better than Tamiya. No higher praise than that. Add to that the alu bleeder caps? Convenience as well, which is important in building a static shock quickly and consistently. A monkey can build these shocks with perfection. It's no longer a dark art.

The minor changes to the diff add up to a marked improvement. I happened to have an extra Casper Racing thrust kit in my possession and used it, so perhaps that makes the kit review unfair. I wanted to see what would happen if I followed the directions explicitly - "tighten diff until resistance is felt while working diff by hand. Tighten screw down and back off 1/8 turn."

Admittedly, I was patient working the diff in, but at some point I gently snugged the screw down when I get close and backed it off 1/8 turn. Wow...perfect, no dimpling of the rings, smooth as glass (over used term), but applies here. Done...put it in the car. The reason I mention this is that diff building has been such a finicky exercise. Do it wrong and the car is junk. Ask ten drivers how to build a diff and you'll get ten different Gregorian chants on how to "do it right."

Here's my point. I followed the kit instructions and came out with what I would say is a perfect diff, without the guess work or witchcraft. It is so smooth, that many who stopped by to look at the car would swear that it was too loose and would slip! Turn one wheel and both turn the same direction - it's tight and never slipped at all, none. We now have the ability to follow a single process and build a solid performing diff. What's that worth?

Don't flame if your experience is different, I'm just sharing with you on what I did, and it worked for me.

Final comments on the build would be that it's much appreciated to get a truly race ready car out of the box. The necessary alu parts, washers etc that were previously "hop-ups" are now included with the build, you aren't wrenching twice. You have the car you want/need right now. I also feel the price for the kit as it's fitted is more than reasonable by a good amount. The quality of the materials and fitment is as good as any kit gets - insert any mfg you like.

first race...

When I'm not racing, my thing is steel, single speed bicycles. If you've ever had the privilege of having a custom built steel frame fitted to your dimensions, it's described as being "in the bike" as opposed to "on the bike." That is kind of what the difference between the 1.0 and the 2.0 is for me. I feel like I'm driving the car, not the car driving me - if that makes any sense. The 2.0 is so relaxing to drive, meaning your not waiting for it to do something funny that you'll be forced to react to. You can focus on driving the track, not fighting with weirdness in the car. The 2.0 disappears and I found myself just being able "to drive."

I think this is where the importance and value of consistency comes in. If I were to sum it up, this is the 2.0, both in terms of the build and driving performance. It doesn't do anything odd, ever...does just what you tell it, and no more. I would let my Mom drive this car fast. I feel it's that much improved.

If you've never owned a 22 before, put this on your very short list.

If you've owned a 22 before and it wasn't your Jones, I urge you to give it another look

If you now own a 22, just pinch for the 2.0. It is a solid, meaningful upgrade that I guarantee will provide you with faster, more consistent results. This extends to not just the driving, but also a kit that's far and away more enjoyable to own and maintain.

just my five cents...awesome job to Frank and TLR.

TQ and win first night out by the way, but that doesn't mean anything to anyone
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:46 AM
  #1074  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Who is everyone? The 22 2.0 is just hitting the streets....
Lol some of the fast guys in md but good point.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:21 AM
  #1075  
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1/2 way through my build and taking a break to go apple picking with my kids. Everything has gone very smooth so far.

Just curious why TLR didn't go with the aluminum front caster block on the 2.0. Any logic behind that or just a part that doesn't need to be aluminum?
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:43 AM
  #1076  
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Hi Frank,

Saw that you were up early, or late, with the youngin? So I sent you a pm hoping for a little input before hitting the dirt today.
Thanks,
'cuda
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:45 AM
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Didn't seem to find this answer...

In order to achieve the front geometry, do you need to use the new front caster blocks in conjunction with the new front spindles? I know the spindle is a must (to move the wheel 3mm), but I was curious if you can use the old caster (knowing that you won't have the new 2 hole locations).

Thx!

Last edited by skrichter; 09-07-2013 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:53 AM
  #1078  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Didn't seem to find this answer...

In order to achieve the front geometry, do you need to use the new front caster blocks in conjunction with the new front spindles? I know the spindle is a must (to move the wheel 3mm), but I was curious if you can use the old caster (knowing that you won't have the new 2 hole locations). Thx!
WOW, that's what I just pm'd to ask Frank since the caster blocks aren't in my hands yet but the rest of my conversion is complete.

Here's what I heard but would like to confirm, the new geometry comes from the spindle and the caster block is new to allow clearance for full steering throw as well as having a B hole for the ballstud.
I removed a bunch of material to allow for more but still not full steering throw and asked if this effort is worthwhile or will durability suffer and is there more to the caster block change than just the clearance and new ballstud position.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:22 AM
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Also, I noticed a significant change with the amount of ball stud spacers in the rear block -- from stock setup (3mm) to Frank's setup (0mm). Curious why the huge difference?
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:32 AM
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you need the new casters and it was said, the old setups wont work anymore. people wanting to convert will have to wait.
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