Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread >

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Reply

Old 01-22-2015, 03:57 PM
  #10681  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
 
Jerm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 3,237
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Longer wheelbase would be my first adjustment. Then possibly longer rear camber links, then more rear toe.
Jerm13 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2015, 05:23 PM
  #10682  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Mudcat981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Hanford, Ca
Posts: 803
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pyroMIKE View Post
Seems that the rear end pivots around quicker than I like in 180 turns. What could I do to get the rear end to plant-pivot slower in the corners.
Lengthen the rear camber links. positions 1-b
Set the rear shocks at a steeper angle, tower position 1, arm- outside.

Are you running a gear diff or ball diff? If a gear diff, change to a ball diff. Once adjusted if still a little quick you can loosen the diff by 1/8 or 1/4 turn max.

I would also start with Dakota Phend RM setup:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...ning_setup.pdf

This setup has 2.5 anti-squat, I prefer the 3.5 anti-squat.
Mudcat981 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 06:49 AM
  #10683  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 103
Default

Lacking forward traction running on carpet... mid motor, gear diff, running slicks as control tyre. Before I get to it are these suitable options;
- increased front droop
- thicker oil in gear diff (now feels like there is not much oil left actually)
- softer rear suspension
- reduced anti squat

Did I get things right, anything else, i.e camber link mod?
Pellefa is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 08:34 AM
  #10684  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
gticlay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,096
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Pellefa View Post
Lacking forward traction running on carpet... mid motor, gear diff, running slicks as control tyre. Before I get to it are these suitable options;
- increased front droop
- thicker oil in gear diff (now feels like there is not much oil left actually)
- softer rear suspension
- reduced anti squat

Did I get things right, anything else, i.e camber link mod?
"add weight" like the brass pivot under the motor. You may have already done this but you didn't say.
gticlay is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 12:31 PM
  #10685  
Tech Rookie
 
swimmerx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 18
Default

congrats to me, read the last 107 pages over 2 weeks and now i'll allow myself to buy the kit, hopefully i'll remember everything i read.
most importantly include the bellcrank steering from the beginning, with a Spektrum S6040 standard size = servo horn straight up and down, steering linkage 30mm
pretread tierods all the way in then back out to size

thanks to Frank Root, you sir are the single biggest reason why i'm going losi 22, keep up the good work
swimmerx7 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 02:42 PM
  #10686  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (124)
 
vr6cj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 4,052
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

So I spy a newer battery setup and brace it looks like a hybrid of the rm and mm.

If posted before sorry.



vr6cj is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 03:21 PM
  #10687  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
MasiisaM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 565
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
So I spy a newer battery setup and brace it looks like a hybrid of the rm and mm.

If posted before sorry.



Thats interesting...looks like he cut the MM tray to fit the ESC on there..looks like it still pivots to get the battery out and use the RM battery holder and block.

Looks like the front caber block is different..
Coating on shock shafts
Pod weights are gone replaced with brass side weights
MasiisaM is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 04:13 PM
  #10688  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Mudcat981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Hanford, Ca
Posts: 803
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Update on Frank Root - Reedy Race

Frank is giving it his best but he is running about 5-10 seconds slower than the top guys. His heat has the top qualifiers which makes it tough. These guys are fast, some as fast as the Factory Invitationals.

Franks standings After 2 rounds:

2WD - 37 of 100
4WD - 20 of 97

Good Luck!
Mudcat981 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 05:36 PM
  #10689  
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
easy e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default


Looks like the front caber block is different..
Coating on shock shafts
Pod weights are gone replaced with brass side weights
That is the front camber block from the 22SCT, it makes the inner ball stud sit higher without any washers. I do not know the exact height, guessing 2-3mm..
easy e is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 05:38 PM
  #10690  
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
easy e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

I almost think these look like the weights he is using..
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-maifield-brass.jpg  
easy e is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2015, 06:02 PM
  #10691  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Mudcat981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Hanford, Ca
Posts: 803
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Frank had a great 3rd Round

2WD Open - Frank had a good run finally, finished 3rd, but 6 seconds behind Kevin Motter.
4WD Open - Frank finished 2nd, .2 seconds off 1st

Final Friday night standings:

2WD - 5th
4WD - 11th

Awesome job FRANK!!!!

Last edited by Mudcat981; 01-23-2015 at 10:17 PM.
Mudcat981 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2015, 07:19 AM
  #10692  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (29)
 
Mikeand22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 413
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone use the TLR aluminum diff nut? If so, is it worth while or are the stock plastic ones the way to go? Thanks for the help!
Mikeand22 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2015, 09:55 AM
  #10693  
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Rochester,IN
Posts: 1,234
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Wonder what chassis Maifield is running? Under side shot shows no hole for the little 2/56 screw that goes into the anti-squat block. New battery hold down looks good!
RandyJones is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2015, 02:04 PM
  #10694  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (83)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,506
Trader Rating: 83 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by easy e View Post
That is the front camber block from the 22SCT, it makes the inner ball stud sit higher without any washers. I do not know the exact height, guessing 2-3mm..
Also appears to have sway bar mounts (not in use).

Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Does anyone use the TLR aluminum diff nut? If so, is it worth while or are the stock plastic ones the way to go? Thanks for the help!
Nah, the gen II plastic one is all that's needed.
Davidka is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2015, 07:35 PM
  #10695  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (63)
 
Kewlbug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RandyJones View Post
Wonder what chassis Maifield is running? Under side shot shows no hole for the little 2/56 screw that goes into the anti-squat block. New battery hold down looks good!
I was wondering same thing. 1.0 chassis? He does like a heavy car apparently.
Also the track looks almost not tight enough to warrant the -2.5

Kewlbug is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service