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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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Old 01-18-2015, 09:11 AM
  #10621  
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Originally Posted by Bivens View Post
And...please don't tighten the diff all the way till the spring is fully compressed and then back off.....that will likely dent the rings and trash the feel of the diff...
.
That'll only happen if the diff is tightened a lot past the point where the spring bottoms out. The bottom point is very apparent when turning the screw. FWIW, I've been doing it this way since the 1st stealth transmission and have never damaged rings/balls.

The Xxx diff was very different, with it's much stronger spring and had to be brought to tension more carefully.
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:55 AM
  #10622  
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Default cab forward body and shorter chassis question

Hey guys,

newbie here, so sorry if I'm askins stupid question

I'm putting together 22 mid motor and I'm going to put the cab forward body and wing set on it right away. What is the best way for cutting out the body and notching out the wing for the shock clearance? The angles on the body seem difficult to get a nice cut with just scissors.

Also, I may switch to the shorter chassis, does running a shorter chassis impact the body fit?

Thanks for any insight!
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:20 AM
  #10623  
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Originally Posted by tlr22jude View Post
Hey guys,

newbie here, so sorry if I'm askins stupid question

I'm putting together 22 mid motor and I'm going to put the cab forward body and wing set on it right away. What is the best way for cutting out the body and notching out the wing for the shock clearance? The angles on the body seem difficult to get a nice cut with just scissors.

Also, I may switch to the shorter chassis, does running a shorter chassis impact the body fit?

Thanks for any insight!
I just lay the wing on top of the tower line up the dots in the wing with the wing mount and mark with a fine tip Sharpe. Cut with scissors and clean everything up with a small stone bit in my dremel. Then I use that wing to mark my new wings.
When I put the short chassis on my car. I did have to do some dremel work around the spur gear cover but it wasn't much.
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Old 01-18-2015, 02:46 PM
  #10624  
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Default Just finished my 22 2.0 MM

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-img_1676.jpg

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-img_1684.jpg
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:37 PM
  #10625  
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Originally Posted by joethejammer View Post
What body is that on your car in the first picture?

Jon
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:07 AM
  #10626  
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Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
What body is that on your car in the first picture?

Jon
Looks like the FTW Vane but I don't think it is.
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:13 AM
  #10627  
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Thanks. I watched that video multiple times. I also watched the video by Racer53. I built my diff both times exactly as they say. The only thing that seems to be different is that I can't get my wheels to lift off the ground.
I have this problem too...I can never find a happy medium. Sometimes the slipper will just slip and if I tighten the slipper just an 1/8 of a turn it will not bark, but almost not do anything...oddest thing. I just adjust it at the track on feel now.

edit: I also remember when this started happening though. My ESC blew and I started running my my sensored motor without the sensor cable. I believe I asked if this could happen some where on this forum and most people said that it would have nothing to do with it...but I'm pretty sure if I got a new ESC and ran sensored it would fix my problem

On a side note, My car was pretty dialed in for the first time after some adjustments...but my traction was pretty bad and I'm going to assume because my tires are in need of new foam inserts. BUT, I do have a question. Would running the rear camber link in the 2-C position as opposed from 2-D result in any loss of traction in the rear while exiting a turn?

Last edited by skeasor; 01-19-2015 at 04:27 AM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:45 AM
  #10628  
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I fought the diff slipper adjustment in my stadium truck where I could never get it right, to the point i put a gear diff in it. One of the guys at my track told me to use the ae diff spring on my next build, so far i have had no issue with my diff.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:06 AM
  #10629  
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Default Body

Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
What body is that on your car in the first picture?

Jon
That is a Pro-Line BullDog for the original 22, although it is discontinued now
However, you can still find some on eBay brand new, unpainted....
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:27 AM
  #10630  
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Originally Posted by tlr22jude View Post
Hey guys,

newbie here, so sorry if I'm askins stupid question

I'm putting together 22 mid motor and I'm going to put the cab forward body and wing set on it right away. What is the best way for cutting out the body and notching out the wing for the shock clearance? The angles on the body seem difficult to get a nice cut with just scissors.

Also, I may switch to the shorter chassis, does running a shorter chassis impact the body fit?

Thanks for any insight!
Shorter chassis does not affect body fitment.

For cutting the body, I follow the intended line and score with an x-acto. I then use small scissors to make a small cut in the score line then bend the wing/body and the intended piece pops right off. It's still a bit tricky around the tight curves. I just get it close and then clean things up with a dremel sanding drum when finished.

As for the wing/shock cutouts, I trace a quarter with a sharpie at the correct location, score and remove and sand as above.

Good luck!!
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:29 AM
  #10631  
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Raced the 22 for the first time this weekend and it was money. I was the only one with a 17.5 Blinky setup. The rest were either 4WD or 13.5 boosted. I got say I could hang through out all the corners and jumps. I would get pulled about 4 feet on the straights. Out of four 4WDs and seven 2WDs I was able to come in 5th. Oh yeah, the best part is I was the only Losi. Big Thanks to Frank and Casper for all your help. I can't wait till I can race at the new indoor track against the same class.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:00 PM
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Default 22 2.0 Spins On Turns

I have a 22 2.0 and it was better a while ago than it is now. I have some worn pinpoints on the front and rear. I noticed that the rear end slides out quite a bit. I tried traction compound and that helps. I have a new set of tires coming. Should I make any changes off of the stock setup or wait until the new pinpoints arrive?

Also, my car is rear motor and I generally run on carpet but have driven on clay with handlebars and suburbs with similar results.
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Old 01-19-2015, 05:11 PM
  #10633  
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Originally Posted by Tibbar110 View Post
I have a 22 2.0 and it was better a while ago than it is now. I have some worn pinpoints on the front and rear. I noticed that the rear end slides out quite a bit. I tried traction compound and that helps. I have a new set of tires coming. Should I make any changes off of the stock setup or wait until the new pinpoints arrive?

Also, my car is rear motor and I generally run on carpet but have driven on clay with handlebars and suburbs with similar results.
I would wait for the tires before I change anything
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:14 PM
  #10634  
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Could someone explain to me the purpose of the 4th hole mod on the rear shock tower? Why are drivers going to it? What's gained and lost from this? Thank you in advance.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:05 AM
  #10635  
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Originally Posted by Alqwad View Post
Shorter chassis does not affect body fitment.

For cutting the body, I follow the intended line and score with an x-acto. I then use small scissors to make a small cut in the score line then bend the wing/body and the intended piece pops right off. It's still a bit tricky around the tight curves. I just get it close and then clean things up with a dremel sanding drum when finished.

As for the wing/shock cutouts, I trace a quarter with a sharpie at the correct location, score and remove and sand as above.

Good luck!!
Thanks, I will give that a try!
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