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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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Old 01-17-2015, 03:44 AM
  #10606  
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Originally Posted by sickpuppy1 View Post
As JP just said, the belcrank is a great up for any version. I run RM only and my steering is sooo much tighter and precise since going to the belcrank. I think it has to do with the ackerman angles between the slider and the belcrank. But what ever...do it!

Thanks sickpuppy1, I bought the kit & spindles yesterday just want to make sure before installing I'll be doing it today. Thanks!!
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Old 01-17-2015, 07:54 AM
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Can anyone recommend a starting point for my slipper? It's the stock slipper. I.e. Tighten all the way down and back off 3 turns.
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Can anyone recommend a starting point for my slipper? It's the stock slipper. I.e. Tighten all the way down and back off 3 turns.
Start loose with a fully charged battery. Hold the rear tires down and pinch the throttle for a second. Adjust tighter until this test results in the front wheels rising off the bench a couple inches (slipper still slipping under power). Adjust to taste on the track from there.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Can anyone recommend a starting point for my slipper? It's the stock slipper. I.e. Tighten all the way down and back off 3 turns.
most tracks i end up with 2.5mm to 3mm of shaft exposed....hope thats what your actually looking for.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake S View Post
most tracks i end up with 2.5mm to 3mm of shaft exposed....hope thats what your actually looking for.
That works. I appreciate your help!
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:06 PM
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Going to the RC Clubhouse on the 24th for a trophy race, anyone here going to be there?
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
That works. I appreciate your help!
Unless you are 100% confident that all slipper parts are the same down to the molecular level (not to mention the rest of the car) you'll be better off learning to find the starting point on the bench. It could save you $20 in diff balls and rings.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Unless you are 100% confident that all slipper parts are the same down to the molecular level (not to mention the rest of the car) you'll be better off learning to find the starting point on the bench. It could save you $20 in diff balls and rings.
I'm all ears. When I try to do it on the bench, holding both wheels and giving it gas, either my slipper slips or my diff barks. I can't seem to find a happy medium. I've watched a ton of videos on how to build your diff and adjust your slipper, however, my wheels never come off the ground when I give it gas. As I said before, either my slipper slips or my diff barks. I appreciate any insight or help. Thanks
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:52 PM
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The slipper should slip. If you think the diff is barking too easily then it should be taken apart, cleaned thoroughly, and reassemled with fresh lube. A diff can be contaminated easily by the tiniest bit of excess bearing oil or even a cleaner that leaves residue. The only thing the diff balls should be lubed with is the clear silicone grease. Tighten until you feel the diff spring bottom out and then back out 1/8-1/4 turn. These diff's don't really have "settings". Then try to readjust the slipper starting from a looser setting to begin with.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:36 PM
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There is a video on YouTube by Matt Castellano when he was with TLR about rebuilding your diff and setting your slipper. I always refer back to it when I rebuild by diff. It always works great. Just google Matt Castellano diff rebuild.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hinch45 View Post
There is a video on YouTube by Matt Castellano when he was with TLR about rebuilding your diff and setting your slipper. I always refer back to it when I rebuild by diff. It always works great. Just google Matt Castellano diff rebuild.
Thanks. I watched that video multiple times. I also watched the video by Racer53. I built my diff both times exactly as they say. The only thing that seems to be different is that I can't get my wheels to lift off the ground.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Can anyone recommend a starting point for my slipper? It's the stock slipper. I.e. Tighten all the way down and back off 3 turns.
I run on low to med grip tracks and my slipper nut is flush with the diff screw so no threads are showing. On higher grip tracks I have about 1.5 to 2 threads showing.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Thanks. I watched that video multiple times. I also watched the video by Racer53. I built my diff both times exactly as they say. The only thing that seems to be different is that I can't get my wheels to lift off the ground.
I think this method will get you "in the ballpark" but I've always found that setting my slipper based on how it feels while racing aggressively always yields better results. Personally I use the hold-both-wheels-and-punch-it method to get me close then just tighten or loosen trackside. I generally run my slipper on the loose side. I like it to give me just enough punch to clear the biggest jump or the one with the shortest lead-up. There is no one slipper setting that's "correct", just run it where it feels best to you. My slipper definitely slips more than most of the other cars on the track but that doesn't stop me from hanging with them - it's just where it works best for me.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Can anyone recommend a starting point for my slipper? It's the stock slipper. I.e. Tighten all the way down and back off 3 turns.
Whatever you do, don't tighten the slipper spring all the way down. You do not want to compress the slipper springs, it will not perform properly once you do.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:32 AM
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And...please don't tighten the diff all the way till the spring is fully compressed and then back off.....that will likely dent the rings and trash the feel of the diff...watch the TLR diff build video and follow that exactly.

Then watch their slipper setting video....and do that.

Simple, if you can't get the results visible in their slipper video....then your DIFF is either loose or you didn't follow breakin procedure while holding the diff.

And...yes, the slipper WILL slip while it raises the front tires...that's the whole point...to check the slipper's torque setting....to make the point of maximum torque transmission "that" much...as a starting point.

In my opinion...these methods work very well. Thanks TLR for those videos.
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