Originally Posted by Davidka

Worded more simply, why is 2mm on inside and 3mm on outside different from just 1mm on outside?

Originally Posted by Frank Root

People aren't hot on that setup because it is Maifield's, they really like it because it drives awesome. People tend to try new setups when they come out, then either like it and continue to run it OR go back to the setup they have been running. Lots of people have just really liked his setup, the way it drives and performs fits the driving style of many. For me, the real difference, is that his setup is easier to drive than some of the others, but still has a lot of natural speed.

I run his setup with the only change being 2 hole pistons (1.5 front, 1.6 rear).

Thanks!
Frank

Originally Posted by Frank Root

Yes, the weight further out has a greater mechanical advantage to cause or inhibit roll, and the weights next to the battery are placed to the rear of the pack increasing the rear weight bias, although only minimally.

Originally Posted by Ashalak

I actually tried Maifields JC Fall Indoor Nat's on a typical slippy indoor UK track, which was 70% super slippy polished floor and 30% carpet (Mainly on the straight) and I was super surprised at how good it was.. Considering at least how wildly different the tracks where, so it just goes to show how good the balance of the setup is.

I didn't follow it word for word, for example I used saddle packs rather than shorty but I didn't also use the 20g WTS Orion weights, so I was probably only about 20g heavier because of that. I also had to run 2.5wt thinner front/rear, so I was 32.5wt front and 30wt rear. The 35/32.5wt as per the setup was much too hard but I suspect that was more the temperature variation as much as anything. I also used Associated Springs as that's what I have, Green's rear and Grey's front but again very similar to the TLR Yellow/KYO Gold (In theory).

I'd definitely recommend giving it a go though, it wasn't unpredictable at all and had good drive out of the corners, good steering and jumped good too. The only thing I was lacking was a touch more side bite and a touch more corner entry, but really they only required minor changes which I'll try next time

Originally Posted by flyduke

What about ride height? Did you manage to keep the same 24 or did you lower it? I wonder if for carpet tracks 24 is a good starting point or should be lower anyhow...

Thanks
Duke

Originally Posted by dbracn

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. In your experience what have you noticed by running the side pod weights and shorty vs the saddle? Before I spend the money on side pod weights and battery weights I would like to hear about others experiences.

Originally Posted by radek

Flyduke,

I run carpet and carpet/mixed surface, tracks only.

Right now at 18mm rear, 17mm front.

Originally Posted by Frank Root

I haven't run saddle in my 2wd, just the shorty with some weight. Good thing about running a shorty, it that you can take the weight easily (or add it) if you want, and then you don't have to change anything else to fit a different size pack.

Originally Posted by flyduke

What about ride height? Did you manage to keep the same 24 or did you lower it? I wonder if for carpet tracks 24 is a good starting point or should be lower anyhow...

Thanks
Duke

Originally Posted by pyroMIKE

Is the 1.5x2 shock pistons TLR233008 not what came with the kit? If not what is the difference?

Also what is the advantage of the bell crank steering system?

Originally Posted by dolfns1

I would like to install the bell crank in my 22 2.0 But I have it in RM is it still a good idea
Also bought the front spindles. Thanks for help

Originally Posted by JP.R

The kit does not come with the 1.5x2 it comes with 1.6x2 TLR233009. The difference is that the 1.5x2 will have more pack than the standard kit piston 1.6x2.

The bell crank steering provides a much smoother steering input to the car as well as improving the amount of steering you get. The bell cranks is possibly the number 1 best upgrade for the car IMO.

JP