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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 12-08-2014, 11:35 PM
  #10066  
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Just wondering what is everyone using for weights next to the shorty battery? I see the team drivers have the orion wts weights but i cant find anything in stock. Is there an alternative so i can try the car out just like ryan is running his?

Thanks,
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:16 AM
  #10067  
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Originally Posted by dbracn
Just wondering what is everyone using for weights next to the shorty battery? I see the team drivers have the orion wts weights but i cant find anything in stock. Is there an alternative so i can try the car out just like ryan is running his?

Thanks,
Get the rocket rc ones. He has them on his Facebook page and u have to email him there. I run the aluminum anti squat block which is huge, 18g side pods, haven't ran the rocket rc battery ones yet but I do have them. Car is really good now, but I think I want to try taking the side pods out and putting the battery ones in, weight would be farther back.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:17 AM
  #10068  
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Originally Posted by dbracn
Just wondering what is everyone using for weights next to the shorty battery? I see the team drivers have the orion wts weights but i cant find anything in stock. Is there an alternative so i can try the car out just like ryan is running his?

Thanks,
I beleive the Rocket RC guy is going to be making them. Might be a good idea to reach him via Facebook.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:24 AM
  #10069  
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Originally Posted by bru00z
Awesome feedback thanks. Sounds like I need to give it a try.
Also has to do a lot with the fact that the chassis flexes like crazy without the waterfall on. Was talking shop with Jake Thayer at OC/RC and he suggested I run the plastic front pivot. The idea is that it makes the front of the car less rigid then the stock aluminum pivot giving me even more steering, which will definitely help at the tight indoor track I usually run on. Will update tomorrow after practice.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:29 AM
  #10070  
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Originally Posted by justinco
Thanks for the other options. Yea the Pucks system is not cheap and at my level I am debating if I really need it.
Think if you change anything, I would do the Bell Cranks and chassis first as it is something you will really feel as compared to stock.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:30 AM
  #10071  
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can someone give me a quick run down on 1 degree anti squat vs. 2 degree. Tracks I run are tight and somewhat loosy goosy.
I hear a couple different stories.
I have been running 1 lately, had 2 in my last 2.0 with esc ran up front and just seemed terrible under breaking. Then changed to 1 it was awesome and just kept it that way, even with the new car. Advantage going back to 2 with esc on tray now or no?
Thoughts Frank?
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Old 12-09-2014, 01:15 AM
  #10072  
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Originally Posted by HotRod127
can someone give me a quick run down on 1 degree anti squat vs. 2 degree. Tracks I run are tight and somewhat loosy goosy.
I hear a couple different stories.
I have been running 1 lately, had 2 in my last 2.0 with esc ran up front and just seemed terrible under breaking. Then changed to 1 it was awesome and just kept it that way, even with the new car. Advantage going back to 2 with esc on tray now or no?
Thoughts Frank?
Possibly what was happening and why 2 degrees felt pretty bad when the speed control was up front was that the car was not allowed to transfer weight rearward due to the weight of the speed control slowing down tjat motion. When I had my PRS-1 I also liked 1 degree when the speed control was mounted up front. 1 degree anti-squat basically allowed your car to free it's self up to transfer weight more freely to the rear end during accelerating. With the speed control now towards the back I'm pretty sure you will wat to run more anti-squat just due to the fact that there is more weight back there to pressure the rear of the car to compress during acceleration. You will gain more rear traction with less anti-squat in the back, but you'll probably not like the lack of front grip the car will be missing, and possible steering loss will result.
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:02 AM
  #10073  
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can someone give me a quick run down on 1 degree anti squat vs. 2 degree. Tracks I run are tight and somewhat loosy goosy.
I hear a couple different stories.
I have been running 1 lately, had 2 in my last 2.0 with esc ran up front and just seemed terrible under breaking. Then changed to 1 it was awesome and just kept it that way, even with the new car. Advantage going back to 2 with esc on tray now or no?
My experience with anti squat is that the more anti squat you put in the more forward bite you have (anti squat stops the suspension from soaking the initial action of weight transfer putting more weight on tires, giving more pin density)

But more anti-squat also increases steering in the sweepers and around tight off camber turns b/c it will not allow the rear to squat down.

Last but not least more anti-squat will increase jumping height and distance over jumps, less anti squat helps in rough track surfaces

Hope this helps
SHON H.
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dbracn
Just wondering what is everyone using for weights next to the shorty battery? I see the team drivers have the orion wts weights but i cant find anything in stock. Is there an alternative so i can try the car out just like ryan is running his?

Thanks,
I went the inexpensive route. Placed velcro on the chassis along the battery. then, took car wheel weights and put the other side of the velcro to them. I now have 14g weights with velcro that I can install and move forward/backward as needed.
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:36 AM
  #10075  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Possibly what was happening and why 2 degrees felt pretty bad when the speed control was up front was that the car was not allowed to transfer weight rearward due to the weight of the speed control slowing down tjat motion. When I had my PRS-1 I also liked 1 degree when the speed control was mounted up front. 1 degree anti-squat basically allowed your car to free it's self up to transfer weight more freely to the rear end during accelerating. With the speed control now towards the back I'm pretty sure you will wat to run more anti-squat just due to the fact that there is more weight back there to pressure the rear of the car to compress during acceleration. You will gain more rear traction with less anti-squat in the back, but you'll probably not like the lack of front grip the car will be missing, and possible steering loss will result.
That makes sense with what you guys are saying, with the esc on the tray now I will try and give it a go.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:31 AM
  #10076  
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Thanks everyone for the help. Ill contact rocket rc for the parts.
Also i was wondering what the added weight on the rear at the camber block is for. I noticed tlr released a new aluminum rear camber block with an additional brass section for tunability however all the team drivers cars are running the plastic rear camber block. For what reason would you run the aluminum/brass camber block?
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:56 AM
  #10077  
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Originally Posted by HotRod127
can someone give me a quick run down on 1 degree anti squat vs. 2 degree. Tracks I run are tight and somewhat loosy goosy.
I hear a couple different stories.
I have been running 1 lately, had 2 in my last 2.0 with esc ran up front and just seemed terrible under breaking. Then changed to 1 it was awesome and just kept it that way, even with the new car. Advantage going back to 2 with esc on tray now or no?
Thoughts Frank?
More anti squat makes the car drive more square or point and shoot. It will make the car a little worse under brake too though, but will land better.
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:36 AM
  #10078  
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Frank - is the servo link length with the new bell crank steering still built to 31.3mm?

Thanks...Greg
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:47 AM
  #10079  
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Originally Posted by dbracn
Thanks everyone for the help. Ill contact rocket rc for the parts.
Also i was wondering what the added weight on the rear at the camber block is for. I noticed tlr released a new aluminum rear camber block with an additional brass section for tunability however all the team drivers cars are running the plastic rear camber block. For what reason would you run the aluminum/brass camber block?
i think everyone went away from using that and most drivers from what i'm seeing are going to the brass hinge pin brace, i thought with that weight back there would give the car a more pendelum effect and make the car lazy.
same with the front kick up plate, seeing alot of the plastic shim there too, over the aluminum shim, so if anything add weight from the hinge pin brace up to the battery if you going to add.
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
More anti squat makes the car drive more square or point and shoot. It will make the car a little worse under brake too though, but will land better.
thanks Frank, makes me feel like I want to just keep the 1 degree in cuz it's working great.
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