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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 12-07-2014, 03:57 PM
  #10036  
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I am new to this buggy and something on Maifield's sheet is puzzling me.

In the Notes section he mentions "Waterfall on".

What part is this? Is this some aftermarket part?
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:20 PM
  #10037  
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Originally Posted by Slippery Dan
I am new to this buggy and something on Maifield's sheet is puzzling me.

In the Notes section he mentions "Waterfall on".

What part is this? Is this some aftermarket part?
The waterfall is the stock mid motor battery strap.
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:25 PM
  #10038  
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It's the part that attaches the transmition case to the chassis. When the first one came out this was the area tlr intended the esc to be mounted in mm.
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MasiisaM
I have ran the gear diff in my mod buggy for close to 8 months now.

Just replace the o-rings with some Kyosho P5 o-rings and you're set. I've done nothing to it other than replace the oil every few months. It's butter smooth and have zero issue with it.

The testing part did kinda suck on what oil to use but after a few cracks at testing i'm sold on 5K. 5k gives me the best turn in and forward bite on a Mid-high bite clay track.

110% recommend it. I for one will never look back.
Can't find these Kyosho P5 O rings. Where can I find these? I assume they're better than the leaky stock black ones?? Thanks

Sorry. Found them. Are these the same as the red losi ones? Or are these better?Thanks
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom-sct
Yes. Lots of steering travel.
A local guy at the track was saying the Bellcrank kit needs to be paired with the -2.5mm chassis to work properly.
Has anyone else heard this?
Never heard that one before and find it surprising as the -2.5 chassis hasn't been out long.

When I installed the bellcranks my steering increased on entry and exit so much I went harder on front springs to smooth it out.
Have heard the same results from almost everyone I know too so surprised you are finding the opposite.
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:22 PM
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Default Waterfall Difference?

I have been running my 22 2.0 without the waterfall since going mid mount 6 months ago. I have my ESC in front of the shorty so need to move it to get the waterfall on hence why I haven't tried it but most seem to be running it these days.

What have people noticed in handling between without and with the waterfall?
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:43 PM
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Hey guys thought I would post this link to a video up for anyone interested in seeing the difference in running your battery Inline vs. Sideways in a 2wd buggy. Hope this helps answer some question anyone may have on the subject.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vhitSrKBeg
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:53 PM
  #10043  
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About to pull the trigger on one of these buggies. I am planning to run stock (17.5) initially for a while then go back to 13.5, maybe mod.

Anything I should get initially to lighten weight, reduce drive train drag, increase durability, etc?

EDIT: I'll be running it MM with shorty packs on a high traction indoor track.
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by justinco
About to pull the trigger on one of these buggies. I am planning to run stock (17.5) initially for a while then go back to 13.5, maybe mod.

Anything I should get initially to lighten weight, reduce drive train drag, increase durability, etc?

EDIT: I'll be running it MM with shorty packs on a high traction indoor track.
MIP puck system.
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman
MIP puck system.
-2.5mm chassis saves about 14 grabs with all of the milling, and makes the car much better then the stock limo chassis. Less expensive then the Pucks system, and does more good all around for the car.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:52 AM
  #10046  
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Originally Posted by justinco
About to pull the trigger on one of these buggies. I am planning to run stock (17.5) initially for a while then go back to 13.5, maybe mod.

Anything I should get initially to lighten weight, reduce drive train drag, increase durability, etc?

EDIT: I'll be running it MM with shorty packs on a high traction indoor track.
Id try both. Mip puck system and -2.5mm chassis. Thats about it.
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:49 AM
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Has anyone found a replacement angled ball cup for the bellcrank upgrade? The
TLR231029 set it out of stock everywhere. Wondering if any of the Schumacher ones would work in a pinch.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:32 AM
  #10048  
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Quick pole for those who have done the 0 shock mount mod in your rear tower, while mine is fine my brother did it to his and he says his cvd's barely fit into his outdrives that required him to use a 2mm spacer to keep the bones from popping out.

Anyone else see this behavior and needed to reduce down travel?
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:33 AM
  #10049  
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Sorry guys, I was out of town since Thursday - just trying to get caught up!

Originally Posted by onadcr74
Guys, I apologize, once again, if this has already been touched upon, but what is everyone's feelings regarding the gear diff. I run mod with a ball diff but I kinda like the idea of a 3 gear diff. Less maintenance and I would assume more consistent. I've felt some 3 gear diffs before and was very impressed by the smoothness also. Maybe I'm way behind the 8 ball on this, but may pick one up this weekend depending on response. Thanks guys!
From my experience - assuming a low-medium high grip surface (anything less than sugar, astro or carpet tracks)

Ball Diff - More consistent, quicker lap times, more maintenance, easier to tune.
Gear Diff - Less consistent, slow lap times, less maintenance, harder to tune.

For me, the gear diff will save a few $, but you are giving up performance, no doubt about it. The more throttle you drive with (I drive with a lot), the bigger the difference in performance.

Originally Posted by mxracer458
the tlr cab forward body is by far the best looking body


Originally Posted by losi b
On the aluminum mm rear camber block that TLR just announced, the inner ball stud appears to have a raised mounting boss, similar to the 22sct front camber block. I would have thought that it should be level or even recessed. I wonder why they built it this way. It is nice of them to include an aluminum and a brass stand off though.
No change to the block where the camber link mounts. Just added the brass base and updated the part number.

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Yeah on my Orions I think I have 5% drag break for the 22SCT 2.0, and 7 percent on the 22 2.0. I basically like to roll through tight turns and gas out of them once the apex has been reached and I know the rear will not step out. Im not a point and shoot driver, hence why all of my cars are MM.
I run 12% in 2wd and 8% in 2wd SCT. 5% in 4wd - BTW.

Originally Posted by skeasor
Does anyone know what Frank Root's receiver is? Actually, I'm not sure if it was his kit that I saw in the picture or not. It could've been Maifield's but I'm pretty sure it was a Spektrum so it may not have been his. Anyway, it's really small and I'm looking for the smallest spektrum receiver I can find. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
SPMSR2000

http://www.horizonhobby.com/sr2000-d...iver-spmsr2000

Originally Posted by Tom-sct
Yes. Lots of steering travel.
A local guy at the track was saying the Bellcrank kit needs to be paired with the -2.5mm chassis to work properly.
Has anyone else heard this?
Not true, unequivocally. Both will improve the car, and I recommend both, but they are not dependent on each other to improve the car.

Originally Posted by sipracing
Hi All,
Is it possible to use the rear arm set from the 22 2wd 2.0 on the old 22 2wd? I mean is part TLR2053 interchangeble with part TLR234005
Yes, TLR234005 is the updated replacement for TLR2053.

Originally Posted by bru00z
I have been running my 22 2.0 without the waterfall since going mid mount 6 months ago. I have my ESC in front of the shorty so need to move it to get the waterfall on hence why I haven't tried it but most seem to be running it these days.

What have people noticed in handling between without and with the waterfall?
I found the car to be more consistent with the water fall on, especially jumping and landing jumps.

One thing I can say for sure, is that running the ESC on the battery mount (up top) really improves the handling. It get the weight higher, which helps the car roll a little more, and also gets some weight off the front and onto the rear - both positive changes. I've tested this back to back specifically.

Originally Posted by hoyt1967
Has anyone found a replacement angled ball cup for the bellcrank upgrade? The
TLR231029 set it out of stock everywhere. Wondering if any of the Schumacher ones would work in a pinch.
We added angled ball cups to TLR6017 (4 ea). The last packages I've receive included the updated angled ball cups.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...t-22-4-tlr6017
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:37 AM
  #10050  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Quick pole for those who have done the 0 shock mount mod in your rear tower, while mine is fine my brother did it to his and he says his cvd's barely fit into his outdrives that required him to use a 2mm spacer to keep the bones from popping out.

Anyone else see this behavior and needed to reduce down travel?
Haven't seen this be an issue, or heard of it to this point.
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