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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 12-02-2014, 08:47 PM
  #9931  
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
(P.s. use all the parts) in the bell crank kit unlike me!!!!!!lol
No wonder the rear motor buggy was a hand full the last time I was at thunder!!!! Lol
Lol, will do!
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:14 PM
  #9932  
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Originally Posted by onadcr74
Lol, yes, I do have the side pods on! No, I don't have any servo tape under it. I'll have to check it over again. I very well coulda made a mistake somewhwere. I was excited and in a hurry to get everything mounted up to the new chassis and get it in mid motor configuration. I've been wanting to get it to this point for soooo long, it is so bad ass just sitting there, lol! Hey thanks for taking the time!


Using a 2.0mm ball hex driver you can adjust the height of the servo while mounted in the chassis. The mounting tabs/ears on the servo give some flexibility for installation. When you install the servo leave 4 mounting screws a little loose. Next secure the servo and mount assembly to the chassis. Now the servo can be pushed down a bit closer to the lowest point on the chassis before fully tightening it to the mounts. Using the 2.0mm ball hex driver gives you room to tighten the servo ears securely to the mounts without the chassis kick up being the way. Hope this helps

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodID=DYN3082B
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:23 PM
  #9933  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
I found golds to make the front hyper sensitive at SRS. Use what feels best for you im at silver fronts on mine but still testing.
yeah, I completely forgot that mod uses heavier dampening. I normally go down 1-2 springs for stock. might need to drop my oils also, meh.
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
What is the recommended spacing for Xpert servos. I'm moving to the TLR bell cracks from the Exotek ones and want to get optimal spacing for the shorter chassis.
I think JP Richards runs Xpert servos. Could someone check with him?

Or Frank, how do you determine how much spacing to use? I figure it needs at least the 1mm shim.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:25 PM
  #9935  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, I completely forgot that mod uses heavier dampening. I normally go down 1-2 springs for stock. might need to drop my oils also, meh.
Im at 30/27.5 right now but I might go lower next time.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:17 AM
  #9936  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, I completely forgot that mod uses heavier dampening. I normally go down 1-2 springs for stock. might need to drop my oils also, meh.
My new setup I have been working on is as follows right now.

Front shocks: Kyosho White 3x1.3 drilled blanks 32.5 wt. Losi
Rear Shocks: LF Grey 3x1.4 drilled blanks 27.5 wt. Losi
The rest of the setup is per Mayfields Surf City setup.

Trying this spring oil combo with no added weight to give the car more freedom to rotate. Also not running any added weight in mid-motor. Have the TLR brass anti-squat block as a tuning option in case I need the rear end locked down a bit more. For tires using Typos all around. Track is tight, twisty, and needs a very nimble but planted car. Will report back later on tonight.

Last edited by jpcopeland1; 12-03-2014 at 04:13 AM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:41 AM
  #9937  
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I rebuilt my diff last night the way I usually do and when I was adjusting my slipper I noticed that there is a grinding noise. When holding the rear wheels down and blipping the throttle it will make a slight grind and the wheels won't jump off the table either...If I loosen the slipper just a half turn the slipper will slip and everything sounds normal. Any ideas?

edit: the noise also happen with the diff tightened down and backed off amount an 1/8 or so.
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:17 AM
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tighten your diff and see if it still happens, sounds like diff slipping to me
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by bigemike
tighten your diff and see if it still happens, sounds like diff slipping to me
That's what I thought too but even if I tighten it down the same thing happens...I did notice that my slipper pads probably need to be replaced but I don't think that would cause any issues like this.
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:51 AM
  #9940  
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Check to see that you didn't tighten the long screws that go into the motor plate too far n that theyre not rubbing the back of the slipper plate.
Happened to me once n I was scratching my head for a while trying to figure out what was going on.
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
I think JP Richards runs Xpert servos. Could someone check with him?

Or Frank, how do you determine how much spacing to use? I figure it needs at least the 1mm shim.
There the same as savox or futaba.
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Old 12-03-2014, 05:49 AM
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I'm really confused on the steering vs. spindle choices. So I'm running an exotec rack setup, would I be better off switching to the new bellcrank spindles? And what is the concern with choosing the right spindle? Is it loosing your lock to lock ability? As long as you run a 4mm spindle that goes lock to lock is that the key? Sorry, I'm just in left field on this.
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:02 AM
  #9943  
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FYI I just ordered the brass block and chassis from Phil's Hobby Shop. It is listed as in stock on their website but they don't have it on their ebay store.
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Old 12-03-2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
I think JP Richards runs Xpert servos. Could someone check with him?

Or Frank, how do you determine how much spacing to use? I figure it needs at least the 1mm shim.
My protek 100ss required no spacing in my buggy and my savox in my 2.0 sct also required no spacing.
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Old 12-03-2014, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by hoyt1967
I'm really confused on the steering vs. spindle choices. So I'm running an exotec rack setup, would I be better off switching to the new bellcrank spindles? And what is the concern with choosing the right spindle? Is it loosing your lock to lock ability? As long as you run a 4mm spindle that goes lock to lock is that the key? Sorry, I'm just in left field on this.
Yes the ears on the included 4 mm trail spindles are shorter with the kit than the stock or alluminum 4 mm ones and they allow the steering to go full lock to lock without binding
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