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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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Old 12-01-2014, 10:12 PM
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People... Tap your holes halfway thru when you first build the kit. You wont have a need to over tighten because it's hard to differentiate between forming threads and when its tight, which results in over tightening of these small screws and/or stripping the plastic. Cut threads in the plastic and the screws go right in easily and pull tight to a torque you can feel and then stop.

m3x.5 is a much finer thread than #4-40, actually 20% finer, and doesn't grip plastic formed threads as well. But public demands metric! lol

Torque values for M3x.5 screws:

M3x.5 steel button head cap screw torque (into aluminum thread) 1.25 nm
M3x.5 steel button head cap screw torque (into plastic thread) 0.32 nm
Yeah, that's not a typo!

Remember, don't run the tap all the way thru the hole. Trick is to tap about half the way through the thread (best guess estimate is fine here). Commonly used screws and turnbuckles can be lubed with chapstick for easy movement.

Mildly Tight is good, really tight is stuck and over tight is stripped and probably broken or soon to be.

Screws shouldn't back out of a cut plastic thread on their own. Screws in aluminum threads may require a SMALL amount of BLUE thread lock the first time they are installed.

If you have a LOCK TIGHTED screw that doesn't want to come loose with reasonable force, stop! heat the head with the tip of your soldiering iron for 30 sec. this will break the lock tight free and usually allow the screw to come right out. If you try to force it the hex will round out and require a dremel.

Just a little FYI.

BK
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:14 PM
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Does anyone know who has the TLR brass rear pivot in stock? Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BLbound View Post
Does anyone know who has the TLR brass rear pivot in stock? Thanks in advance!
Ask Jake at OC/RC or call Steve at Losi Parts House. I got mine from LPH. Don't know if he has any more in stock, but he can give you an ETA as to when they might be back in stock. Or go the Rocket RC path and ask through his Facebook page.
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Ask Jake at OC/RC or call Steve at Losi Parts House. I got mine from LPH. Don't know if he has any more in stock, but he can give you an ETA as to when they might be back in stock. Or go the Rocket RC path and ask through his Facebook page.
Thanks! I'll give them a try!
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Old 12-02-2014, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BLbound View Post
Does anyone know who has the TLR brass rear pivot in stock? Thanks in advance!
RocketRc has some just picked some up myself.
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Old 12-02-2014, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
I was the exact opposite. Found his setups too twitchy and hard to drive, but now that I have a car that I couldn't make twitchy if I tried Mays setups work awesome.
if you are referring to his B4 setups....that car was twitchy and sucked to drive.
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
if you are referring to his B4 setups....that car was twitchy and sucked to drive.
Yup. When I had the B5M I used a setup we found that worked locally. You haven't by any chance tried Mays 22-4 setup? the car is super easy to drive out of the box, just looking for some fine tuning. Mays SC10 setups were a little too aggressive as well, but I could never keep its ass from coming around too abruptly.
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Yup. When I had the B5M I used a setup we found that worked locally. You haven't by any chance tried Mays 22-4 setup? the car is super easy to drive out of the box, just looking for some fine tuning. Mays SC10 setups were a little too aggressive as well, but I could never keep its ass from coming around too abruptly.
lol, SC10 never drove good for me. No I had no desire to run a belt drive car, I run a D413 in 4wd. I got most of the 22 converted to MM last night. Just need to rebuild the shocks.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:03 AM
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Any idea when the -2.5 chassi might be back in stock? Horizon still shows backordered.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Yup. When I had the B5M I used a setup we found that worked locally. You haven't by any chance tried Mays 22-4 setup? the car is super easy to drive out of the box, just looking for some fine tuning. Mays SC10 setups were a little too aggressive as well, but I could never keep its ass from coming around too abruptly.
maifield shorty setup from Chico I'd dialed on the 22-4. Its good for high bite tracks that are tight. My car has never been so good.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:37 AM
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I have been running stock set up for MM in 17.5 with a few changes, front shock red spring 27.5 oil 2x1.5 pistons, 0 hub 25 kick, in the rear yellow springs 25 oil 2x1.6 pistons. 2.5 anti squat. Depending on traction i use shock location 2-middle or 1- inside to get the rear rotating faster or slower. This has been a stable easy to drive set up
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:46 AM
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This is with all alum parts removed and replaced with stock plastic pieces, jc carbon front shock tower, savox low profile servo, smc 4600 shorty pack, avid triad slipper, tlr alum driveshaft, impact esc Vulcan motor timed 45 geared 72/30. Car weighs in at our track scale at 1530
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Vegaspilot View Post
Any idea when the -2.5 chassi might be back in stock? Horizon still shows backordered.
Guy on ebay still has a couple. Got mine pretty fast.
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by skeasor View Post
The holes in my tranny for the mid motor are shot. When I first built the kit I could tell those screws would be a problem so I greased them up, tightened and backed them out a few times but the hexes still rounded off when I took it apart for maintenance. I have so many dremel cuts in my chassis from putting a cut into the screw just so I could back the screw out. I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the cheap soft screws. Either way, it's aggravating to say the least. I'll need to replace the tranny case now because the holes have widened so much that it wont stay tight to the chassis.

edit: nothing makes you more mad than a 5 minute shock rebuild that takes an hour because you can't get the damn screw out of the rear A arm...I was about ready to throw the car against the wall...Keep in mind, I'm not using cheap tools either.

edit II: After reading my post it sounds like I'm putting down TLR when I'm actually not. I just get frustrated with cheap hardware that ALL companies send with their kits.
I went with a shorter screw to use in the underside of chassis to mount the tranny, not sure what size, long enough but shorter .. haven't had any problems

and for the rear shock mounts in the a-arm I used a 3mm cap head screw, uses a 2.5mm hex wrench
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dagolf View Post
maifield shorty setup from Chico I'd dialed on the 22-4. Its good for high bite tracks that are tight. My car has never been so good.
OK. That's the one I am currently changing to. Did the Shorty mod when I first got the car. Had to cut maybe a quarter inch off the side pod along with the antennae mount and the pack drops right in, one pad forward. Easiest mod I have ever done in my life. The D413 is a good car, just hated the spur gear issues I was having, and after running the Losi I am over gear diffs for good. The track I run on is definitely high bite, and definitely tight. I want to take my quadcopter with the GoPro in it and film the Holiday Race series this weekend. Fun track, fun layout, and chill people.

Last edited by jpcopeland1; 12-02-2014 at 02:45 PM.
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