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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 12-01-2014, 04:18 PM
  #9886  
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman
Sorry, stock.
I'd go RM for sure. I tried to run MM in stock at Surf City, felt like I was at a disadvantage and switched to RM. Once I did, I was on pace, or the quickest. The drivetrain is just a little more efficient, and you tend to get 6" more launch off of jumps, which makes a big difference when you have a layout with jumps that are hard to clear.

I'd start with one of the setups below, and go from there.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil..._Surf_City.pdf

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil..._Surf_City.pdf
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:10 PM
  #9887  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Cool. RM is just not very good at SRS with the 22 imo. I plan to work on the car in my spare time this week and run some practice this weekend. how were your temps with that gearing. Track temps are much lower these days and i find a well placed vent help quite a bit.
Temps were fine for me all weekend but I run Schuurspeed motors which run very cool and you don't need 50*+ in timing to run with the A group. Hottest I ran all weekend was 112* no fan either slipper pretty much locked down.
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:10 PM
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Frank did you run the -2.5 chassis on your stock setup?
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
I'd go RM for sure. I tried to run MM in stock at Surf City, felt like I was at a disadvantage and switched to RM. Once I did, I was on pace, or the quickest. The drivetrain is just a little more efficient, and you tend to get 6" more launch off of jumps, which makes a big difference when you have a layout with jumps that are hard to clear.

I'd start with one of the setups below, and go from there.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil..._Surf_City.pdf

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil..._Surf_City.pdf

Cool thanks. Everything I've read from you has been very helpful so far. Hopefully I'll run into you some time...

The set up sheets are blank, were they supposed to be?
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:32 PM
  #9890  
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try opening the PDFs in acrobat or another dedicated PDF reader. The info is there, you just can't see it with whatever you're using (probably a smart phone)
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Are you mid motor now Wildcat?
I am in the process of converting now. I had to stop. blisters were forming. One of the things I hate about the car...new plastics are a PITA. and yes, I am greasing the screws. I am not sure why, but my shorty was a very tight fit. I was going to use a couple stick on weights to keep the pack in place, but I seriously dont think it will go anywhere....since i had to flex the chassis and press the front battery mount forward, just to get it in.
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:55 PM
  #9892  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am in the process of converting now. I had to stop. blisters were forming. One of the things I hate about the car...new plastics are a PITA. and yes, I am greasing the screws. I am not sure why, but my shorty was a very tight fit. I was going to use a couple stick on weights to keep the pack in place, but I seriously dont think it will go anywhere....since i had to flex the chassis and press the front battery mount forward, just to get it in.
I agree. It's almost like you have to pre-drill all of the plastics for the screws to go through without stripping the heads..and EVERYTHING is a tight fit on this car but sure does it drive nicely ...well, sometimes but I'm 99.9% sure that is my driving error
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by skeasor
I agree. It's almost like you have to pre-drill all of the plastics for the screws to go through without stripping the heads..and EVERYTHING is a tight fit on this car but sure does it drive nicely ...well, sometimes but I'm 99.9% sure that is my driving error
yeah, I have also wondered if the molder holes are a little small and could use a drill bit to open them a little. the 20mm screws holding the tranny to the chassis were brutal.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, I have also wondered if the molder holes are a little small and could use a drill bit to open them a little. the 20mm screws holding the tranny to the chassis were brutal.
The holes in my tranny for the mid motor are shot. When I first built the kit I could tell those screws would be a problem so I greased them up, tightened and backed them out a few times but the hexes still rounded off when I took it apart for maintenance. I have so many dremel cuts in my chassis from putting a cut into the screw just so I could back the screw out. I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the cheap soft screws. Either way, it's aggravating to say the least. I'll need to replace the tranny case now because the holes have widened so much that it wont stay tight to the chassis.

edit: nothing makes you more mad than a 5 minute shock rebuild that takes an hour because you can't get the damn screw out of the rear A arm...I was about ready to throw the car against the wall...Keep in mind, I'm not using cheap tools either.

edit II: After reading my post it sounds like I'm putting down TLR when I'm actually not. I just get frustrated with cheap hardware that ALL companies send with their kits.

Last edited by skeasor; 12-01-2014 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:36 PM
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After looking closer and comparing the front spindles, I can see they are different.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Gonz13
try opening the PDFs in acrobat or another dedicated PDF reader. The info is there, you just can't see it with whatever you're using (probably a smart phone)
Lol, yes sir I was. Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by skeasor
The holes in my tranny for the mid motor are shot. When I first built the kit I could tell those screws would be a problem so I greased them up, tightened and backed them out a few times but the hexes still rounded off when I took it apart for maintenance. I have so many dremel cuts in my chassis from putting a cut into the screw just so I could back the screw out. I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the cheap soft screws. Either way, it's aggravating to say the least. I'll need to replace the tranny case now because the holes have widened so much that it wont stay tight to the chassis.
edit: nothing makes you more mad than a 5 minute shock rebuild that takes an hour because you can't get the damn screw out of the rear A arm...I was about ready to throw the car against the wall...Keep in mind, I'm not using cheap tools either.
edit II: After reading my post it sounds like I'm putting down TLR when I'm actually not. I just get frustrated with cheap hardware that ALL companies send with their kits.
Tony's Screws or a kit solves the screwed up screw issue. Granted, you shouldnt have to change out the MFG stuff in the 1st place, but as they go bad replace them with good stuff.
http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=57
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by skeasor
The holes in my tranny for the mid motor are shot. When I first built the kit I could tell those screws would be a problem so I greased them up, tightened and backed them out a few times but the hexes still rounded off when I took it apart for maintenance. I have so many dremel cuts in my chassis from putting a cut into the screw just so I could back the screw out. I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the cheap soft screws. Either way, it's aggravating to say the least. I'll need to replace the tranny case now because the holes have widened so much that it wont stay tight to the chassis.

edit: nothing makes you more mad than a 5 minute shock rebuild that takes an hour because you can't get the damn screw out of the rear A arm...I was about ready to throw the car against the wall...Keep in mind, I'm not using cheap tools either.

edit II: After reading my post it sounds like I'm putting down TLR when I'm actually not. I just get frustrated with cheap hardware that ALL companies send with their kits.
tlr's screws are OK. IMO AE are better and so are the high grade protek screws. I use MIP tools as well and I never use power tools. For the lower shock mount, I often use either cap screws or FH screws with a pretty alum CS washer. More tool engagement. button head screws are the devil on the longer screws.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by skeasor
The holes in my tranny for the mid motor are shot. When I first built the kit I could tell those screws would be a problem so I greased them up, tightened and backed them out a few times but the hexes still rounded off when I took it apart for maintenance. I have so many dremel cuts in my chassis from putting a cut into the screw just so I could back the screw out. I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the cheap soft screws. Either way, it's aggravating to say the least. I'll need to replace the tranny case now because the holes have widened so much that it wont stay tight to the chassis.

edit: nothing makes you more mad than a 5 minute shock rebuild that takes an hour because you can't get the damn screw out of the rear A arm...I was about ready to throw the car against the wall...Keep in mind, I'm not using cheap tools either.

edit II: After reading my post it sounds like I'm putting down TLR when I'm actually not. I just get frustrated with cheap hardware that ALL companies send with their kits.
You must be doing something wrong - I don't have issues at all. On the transmission screws, you HAVE to use beeswax - chapstick or something although my MIP tips have been fine with those screws too. I've had the shock screws out many, many, many times. MIP tips are the ONLY way to go unless you have those (IMO), you should upgrade.
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, good to know. I always liked Maifields setups on AE cars, so figured why not try it on the TLR.
I was the exact opposite. Found his setups too twitchy and hard to drive, but now that I have a car that I couldn't make twitchy if I tried Mays setups work awesome.
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