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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 12-01-2014, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SkipGear
It doesn't matter because there is only one version of spindles that works with the bell cranks. You must run them for the bell crank system to work correctly. You no longer have the option of +2 or +4 on the 2.0. Everything is +4.
It did matter to me because I wanted to know the answer. I'm so sorry for asking a question that you obviously thought didn't matter.
I see some things never change SkipGear
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am looking to give MM another shot in 17.5 stock. I have the bell cranks, but not the -2.5, and I have no plans to buy the new chassis. I run on medium to high grip. I might drill the "0" hole just for tuning purposes, but I have no desire to add more weight to the car. We run clay slicks. I am looking for a "balanced" starting setup. I was thinking maybe Maifields, but without all of the weight. thoughts?
Ran that setup last night at my localish track. Pretty high bite clay and it was very good. Ran Typos front and the new Chainlinks in the rear and the car was fast. I want I shave off weight so I am going to throw on the new chassis, tried a friend who's car has it and I liked the way the rear end pivoted around 180 degree turns. Frank just suggested that I drop the weight 2.5 all around since the track is smallish and very twisty.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:39 AM
  #9873  
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Originally Posted by M.Gustafson
It did matter to me because I wanted to know the answer. I'm so sorry for asking a question that you obviously thought didn't matter.
I see some things never change SkipGear
The other options is what did not matter, not the question or answer. The question was very valid and has been asked quite a few times already on here.

With the bell cranks, if you run the older spindles, you don't get full steering throw. There is only one version of spindles that works properly with the bell cranks so there are no other options.

Sorry you took that the wrong way.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:52 AM
  #9874  
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Originally Posted by SkipGear
The other options is what did not matter, not the question or answer. The question was very valid and has been asked quite a few times already on here.

With the bell cranks, if you run the older spindles, you don't get full steering throw. There is only one version of spindles that works properly with the bell cranks so there are no other options.

Sorry you took that the wrong way.
They are in the bag for a reason. What else would they go on? the 22T uses in-line spindles. I think TLR as good as their kits are, have some making up to do in the info department. But then again it is up to the end user to google...

"This bell crank system can work with the 22T as well, but it does not use the updated sprindles and requires TLR6065 Turnbuckle, HD, 70mm (2): 22SCT as well." Is the only point of reference where it specifically states a certain spindle will not at all work.
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Ran that setup last night at my localish track. Pretty high bite clay and it was very good. Ran Typos front and the new Chainlinks in the rear and the car was fast. I want I shave off weight so I am going to throw on the new chassis, tried a friend who's car has it and I liked the way the rear end pivoted around 180 degree turns. Frank just suggested that I drop the weight 2.5 all around since the track is smallish and very twisty.
ok, good to know. I always liked Maifields setups on AE cars, so figured why not try it on the TLR.
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am looking to give MM another shot in 17.5 stock. I have the bell cranks, but not the -2.5, and I have no plans to buy the new chassis. I run on medium to high grip. I might drill the "0" hole just for tuning purposes, but I have no desire to add more weight to the car. We run clay slicks. I am looking for a "balanced" starting setup. I was thinking maybe Maifields, but without all of the weight. thoughts?
States was only my 4th day with the car in mm. I ran 1.6 with 30/27.5 red front spring and pink rear both lf. Geared 69/29 and placed 5th over in stock. Car was easy to drive and predictable. Haven't gotten it quit as good as I had the Rb6 but it's getting there. I maybe there at Srs Thursday if work allows. This is with the bellcranks and stock chassis.
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:31 AM
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The spindles and the angled ball cups were late revisions to the bell crank setup, which is why they are not in the manual. We designed everything, thought were good to go, then when we started testing, we had trouble getting full lock, especially with certain servos. We revised the spindle design to maximize the Ackermann setting, and achieve more travel, then added the angled ball cups to improve the clearance for the steering link around the front shock spring. Rather than delaying the shipment, we decided to ship them without an update to the manual in hopes that most people could understand the assembly well enough to hit the track.
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
States was only my 4th day with the car in mm. I ran 1.6 with 30/27.5 red front spring and pink rear both lf. Geared 69/29 and placed 5th over in stock. Car was easy to drive and predictable. Haven't gotten it quit as good as I had the Rb6 but it's getting there. I maybe there at Srs Thursday if work allows. This is with the bellcranks and stock chassis.
Cool. RM is just not very good at SRS with the 22 imo. I plan to work on the car in my spare time this week and run some practice this weekend. how were your temps with that gearing. Track temps are much lower these days and i find a well placed vent help quite a bit.
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:21 PM
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Finally got my 2.0 to where I'm completely comfortable driving it. The bell cranks and -2.5 chassis were the ticket. Along with the side pod weights and anti squat block, these mods made my car a breeze to drive hard. Loving maifield Chico setups on bit my 22 2.0 and 22-4. The 22-4 is ridiculously dialed on my local high bite clay track. Gets through tight sections so quickly.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, good to know. I always liked Maifields setups on AE cars, so figured why not try it on the TLR.
Are you mid motor now Wildcat?
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:41 PM
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I apologize if this has been asked here because I dont have the time to search thru 650+ pages....

Im building my 22 2.0 right now and Im debating on the mid vs. rear configuration. I was hoping Frank Root has some input for me. Ive been reading a lot of your info and so far its been very helpful. Plus Ill be racing on some of the tracks you do, mainly IERC.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman
I apologize if this has been asked here because I dont have the time to search thru 650+ pages....

Im building my 22 2.0 right now and Im debating on the mid vs. rear configuration. I was hoping Frank Root has some input for me. Ive been reading a lot of your info and so far its been very helpful. Plus Ill be racing on some of the tracks you do, mainly IERC.
Do you plan to run stock or mod?
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:31 PM
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hey Frank...

Thanks for all the help...i for 1 appreciate it...
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt M.
hey Frank...

Thanks for all the help...i for 1 appreciate it...
For sure Matt, and thanks for yours in keeping these forums clean and up to date!
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Do you plan to run stock or mod?
Sorry, stock.
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