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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 10-21-2014, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wiscR56
for those who are using the MIP Pucks system, are you upgrading the steel balls that come with it?

If so, what diff and thrust balls are you using? I would assume the TLR carbide diff balls (TLR2951) will work, but what about the thrust balls and washers in TLR2947
I used the MIP diff balls without issue, but I went with the avid caged carbide thrust. My diff is money!
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by XXXDad
Thanks Glenn
Also the new 48 gram blocks are available with set squat degrees. I apologize for website I just haven't had time if you guys use Facebook it works best for me till I can get Website fixed. The new squat available in 1 deg, 2 deg, 2.5 deg, and 3 deg or any angle you guys want just takes a day to make special. Thanks
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:14 PM
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Some one explain to me why use the old 1.0 front an rear arms??please??
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Old 10-22-2014, 04:24 AM
  #9094  
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
Some one explain to me why use the old 1.0 front an rear arms??please??
They have more shock hole
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Old 10-22-2014, 04:58 AM
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On some of the 22 2.0 setups on the TLR site I've noticed that that front camber link is raised 2mm or 3mm on the hub and on the bulkhead.

Daft question, why not run 0mm washers under both ballstuds?
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Old 10-22-2014, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
Some one explain to me why use the old 1.0 front an rear arms??please??
From my research by using the outer hole it will give more low speed steering or off power steering. Keep in mind that moving the shock out it will stiffen up the suspension so you might need to thin the oil.

Brian
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SUPERLOOPER
From my research by using the outer hole it will give more low speed steering or off power steering. Keep in mind that moving the shock out it will stiffen up the suspension so you might need to thin the oil.

Brian
And do they use the rear off the old buggy also??
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
And do they use the rear off the old buggy also??
No, use the arm that came with the 2.0.
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SUPERLOOPER
From my research by using the outer hole it will give more low speed steering or off power steering. Keep in mind that moving the shock out it will stiffen up the suspension so you might need to thin the oil.

Brian
Is that more for high bite tracks
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I use the Avid ceramic caged thrust. The pucks steel balls are not the best.
Or go with the guy that brought this size caged thrust bearing to the R/C market.

Casper-RC

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Old 10-22-2014, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Or go with the guy that brought this size caged thrust bearing to the R/C market.

Casper-RC

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Which by the way I have used for 3 rebuilds(the same one) in my 22 buggies.



Frank: any idea when the updated bell cranks will be in stock?
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Or go with the guy that brought this size caged thrust bearing to the R/C market.

Casper-RC

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lol, I was waiting for you to post. Took you long enough
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:41 AM
  #9103  
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Which by the way I have used for 3 rebuilds(the same one) in my 22 buggies.



Frank: any idea when the updated bell cranks will be in stock?
We should have more bell cranks in stock by the end of the month, or first week of Nov, and they will be updated.
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:56 AM
  #9104  
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Originally Posted by jonbrown
On some of the 22 2.0 setups on the TLR site I've noticed that that front camber link is raised 2mm or 3mm on the hub and on the bulkhead.

Daft question, why not run 0mm washers under both ballstuds?
It still changes the roll center, just not as drastically. It also helps minimize slop.

Think of it as a 3 ft. pin with a 1/4" slop at each end vs. a 3" pin with a 1/4" slop at each end. The farther two points are apart, the less the inherent slop effects them.
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SkipGear
It still changes the roll center, just not as drastically. It also helps minimize slop.

Think of it as a 3 ft. pin with a 1/4" slop at each end vs. a 3" pin with a 1/4" slop at each end. The farther two points are apart, the less the inherent slop effects them.

Thanks for the reply,

So am I right in thinking that if the inner and outer camber link ball studs are raised by the same amount it has a similar effect to handling as lengthening the camber link or just raising the bulkhead ball stud but is a smaller change to both?

I get what you mean about inherent slop, but do not understand why raising both ball studs the same amount would reduce it as the link has not changed lengths
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