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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 09-16-2014, 05:42 AM
  #8626  
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The guys over at rocket rc are awesome. Best customer service ive probbly ever had. There even making me custom "orion" weights to drop in beside the battery. And on top of that willing to rush the order so i can have it all by the weekend.
Top knotch business.
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:33 AM
  #8627  
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Does anyone make white ball cups that fit the turnbuckles/ball studs??


Also ordered a few parts directly from Exotek ....order said shipped but haven't received a tracking number in like a week....
How is their time frame as far as delivery goes??

Thanks
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:34 AM
  #8628  
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jp

those are low frequency yellow rear springs correct?
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:33 AM
  #8629  
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Originally Posted by skeeler
Thanks, JP. I'll look that over.

I notice that this setup and a couple of other recent MM setups on TLR's site use the gold Kyosho spring in the front. Is that the big bore spring for the RB5, RB6, ZX-5, and ZX-6, part number KYOXGS003?

As far as I can find, this pring is a little stiffer than any of the TLR low-frequency springs, but similar to the green or blue regular 12-mm spring. Is that right?
The yes you have the correct part number. The Kyosho spring is 3.33 and our stiffest LF spring is the silver 3.18. So it is quite a bit stiffer than ours.

Originally Posted by Matt M.
jp

those are low frequency yellow rear springs correct?
Yes LF Yellow.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:35 AM
  #8630  
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I heard TLR might release some stiffer front LF springs for the higher MM bite tracks and for 4wd buggy.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:21 AM
  #8631  
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When I ordered my steering rack some months ago, it came within couple of day of shipped confirmation. I am in CA, so it's just a few miles up the coast. Yes, they provide a shipping confirmation, but no tracking number.

Ordered some other parts over the weekend, and got a shipped confirmation yesterday.

Originally Posted by NickTheGreek
Also ordered a few parts directly from Exotek ....order said shipped but haven't received a tracking number in like a week....
How is their time frame as far as delivery goes??
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:52 AM
  #8632  
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Originally Posted by elikeatts
Hey guys, I was just wondering what might be some good setup tips for running the mid motor 22 2.0 outdoors on a more loamy track? I have had pretty decent success with the mm car outdoors in the past, but was wondering what might make the car better/faster outdoors. I race mostly indoors where I live, so converting it to rear motor just for this one race would be time consuming and bothersome. I would like to try to just keep it mm and try to make that work everywhere. Thanks.
I guess no one really runs mm outdoors?
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:14 PM
  #8633  
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Default Rear motor outdoor setup

Can someone send me in the direction of a good setup for the 22 2.0 rear motor outdoor, low to medium grip surface. I'm very sure that I can get it but was just wanting some reference just in case. I found one a few weeks ago, but I couldn't print it off as I was at work, lol! Someone said that there wasn't a whole lot of these setups around but this person put a link to someones setup, for this type of setup, but I can't find it again, of course!
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:31 PM
  #8634  
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There's no setups that I've seen for loose outdoor dirt tracks. I've run rear motor all year and can't keep up with the B5s on a loose dirt track. I'm running 20 degree kick shim with 0 degree caster blocks and it drives in great but I can't get off the turns at all. I ran Frank Roots RM setup for a while but it had No steering at all. I had to use a ton of brake to swing it around which also killed my corner speed.
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:34 PM
  #8635  
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Originally Posted by rcus3r
When I ordered my steering rack some months ago, it came within couple of day of shipped confirmation. I am in CA, so it's just a few miles up the coast. Yes, they provide a shipping confirmation, but no tracking number.

Ordered some other parts over the weekend, and got a shipped confirmation yesterday.
Thanks.....I actually just received my order a lil while ago...
It was quick,,,,Thumbs up
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Old 09-16-2014, 03:17 PM
  #8636  
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Originally Posted by Dan Rennekamp
Can someone send me in the direction of a good setup for the 22 2.0 rear motor outdoor, low to medium grip surface. I'm very sure that I can get it but was just wanting some reference just in case. I found one a few weeks ago, but I couldn't print it off as I was at work, lol! Someone said that there wasn't a whole lot of these setups around but this person put a link to someones setup, for this type of setup, but I can't find it again, of course!
I use this one from JR Mitch
TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-image.jpg
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Old 09-16-2014, 03:44 PM
  #8637  
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Originally Posted by Tanis103
I use this one from JR Mitch
Attachment 1232601
Just curious and a question for everyone...all being the same what difference would one see if you switch from the 1- a/b rear camber link to say the 2 unnamed holes on the hub below "d" in MM configuration. The angle would be wonky for sure...

An i wrong to think when talking about camber links...

Longer = more traction
Ball stud height - Shorter = more traction
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:28 PM
  #8638  
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Originally Posted by MasiisaM
Just curious and a question for everyone...all being the same what difference would one see if you switch from the 1- a/b rear camber link to say the 2 unnamed holes on the hub below "d" in MM configuration. The angle would be wonky for sure...

An i wrong to think when talking about camber links...

Longer = more traction
Ball stud height - Shorter = more traction
Camber Links/Roll Centres as discussed extensively are a big thing to adjust on any car, and they alter the car in lots of different ways.

In terms of what your asking what they do then your half right.

Longer Link = More Lateral Traction
Ball Stud Height - Taller = More Lateral Traction

The length of the camber link also has greater effect than that of the height of the inner ball stud.

Despite a longer link/taller ball stud having more lateral traction I only find that this is the case up to a point, which when the traction is lost it's generally much harder to catch the rear of the car. Because your also increasing the rear traction with a longer link/taller ball stud you do also lose steering, this is because the rear of the car pivots less around the front due to greater roll.

A shorter link/lower ball stud has less overall lateral traction, but greater steering response and the car's slide tends to be easier to control. A car with a shorter link/lower ball stud also tends to square up out of the corners a little better too.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ashalak
Camber Links/Roll Centres as discussed extensively are a big thing to adjust on any car, and they alter the car in lots of different ways.

In terms of what your asking what they do then your half right.

Longer Link = More Lateral Traction
Ball Stud Height - Taller = More Lateral Traction

The length of the camber link also has greater effect than that of the height of the inner ball stud.

Despite a longer link/taller ball stud having more lateral traction I only find that this is the case up to a point, which when the traction is lost it's generally much harder to catch the rear of the car. Because your also increasing the rear traction with a longer link/taller ball stud you do also lose steering, this is because the rear of the car pivots less around the front due to greater roll.

A shorter link/lower ball stud has less overall lateral traction, but greater steering response and the car's slide tends to be easier to control. A car with a shorter link/lower ball stud also tends to square up out of the corners a little better too.
thank you for the explanation...

in simple terms...longer = more traction...Taller = more traction but less than a longer link...its all relative and each have a cause and effect on balance ...Find the balance point of steering and traction in and out of the corner...is that correct?
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:53 PM
  #8640  
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Slightly off-topic:

What are you guys doing to charge multiple 2S batteries with tube (female bullet) connectors in series or in parallel. I don't see many options for a ready-made cable. Do I need to just solder up my own serial or parallel cable to be able to do that?
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