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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 09-09-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
lol. I just weight my evo clay tires vs tlr wheels with m4 ions.....The TLR wheels + m4 ions were 38 grams heavier....zoinks. I also took out the brass kick shim, so 1578 with clay tires. not too bad. I have some alum bones I will toss in and and see where it stands.
That's a good bit of unsprung weight removed! That should help make the car more stable also.
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:49 AM
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Default New Losi bell cranks

Question for the Losi guys who have the new bell cranks...will we need a low profile servo to use the new bell cranks? Looking on Exotek's site checking out their bell cranks, their saying you need a short 14.5mm measurement from the mounting tab to the top of the output gear. Will we need that with the Losi cranks or can we still use a standard size servo? I just bought a protek 100ss servo & I'm wondering if I need to send it back due to size. Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Question for the Losi guys who have the new bell cranks...will we need a low profile servo to use the new bell cranks? Looking on Exotek's site checking out their bell cranks, their saying you need a short 14.5mm measurement from the mounting tab to the top of the output gear. Will we need that with the Losi cranks or can we still use a standard size servo? I just bought a protek 100ss servo & I'm wondering if I need to send it back due to size. Thanks!
I know that in the 22sct the exotek works fine with a standard servo. I would assume the same in the 22 buggy.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Question for the Losi guys who have the new bell cranks...will we need a low profile servo to use the new bell cranks? Looking on Exotek's site checking out their bell cranks, their saying you need a short 14.5mm measurement from the mounting tab to the top of the output gear. Will we need that with the Losi cranks or can we still use a standard size servo? I just bought a protek 100ss servo & I'm wondering if I need to send it back due to size. Thanks!
From what Frank has posted in the past and from what the tlr web sight say is you shim your servo just like you would with the slide rack. So if your servo fit in your buggy with the slider then you will have no problems with the new bell cranks
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:44 AM
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Thanks fantomdude and Errok.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:48 AM
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LHS says the new bell cranks are due to ship out on the 22nd. Cant Wait. Been waiting a year to see if they live up to the hype. If they make the car steer like a B5, then I have some choices to make, lol
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:58 AM
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Took my 10yo nephew to the track this past weekend for the first time. I turned him loose with my 22 with the throttle EPA turned down to 50%. It seems that was the last trip to the track with that buggy under my ownership. LOL

I picked up a new 2.0 today. Have to wait until next week for my Savox 1257 and R10.1 ESC to come in, though.

Will most likely be building it RM, as I run outdoors 95% of the time.

My 1.0 was my first R/C after a 20 year hiatus, so i probably didnt have it set up as well as i could have. ESC was mounted on the shelf, and hasnt moved since built. On this buggy, i plan to take my time and lay it out with a little more thought.

I had added weight to the front on my 1.0 to help with a chronic push, and just left it there, out of pure laziness, I guess. On the 2.0, I'm thinking of maybe putting the ESC on the chassis. What is the consensus of ESC mounting for RM, in front of, or behind, the battery?

Or, just leave it on the shelf?

Last edited by CharlieHo; 09-10-2014 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:08 AM
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For one, the 2.0 turns more consistent and better than the 1.0 did IMO. I never liked the 1.0. The 2.0 is "almost" the way I want it. Hoping the bell cranks get me the last little bit I want. As far as the esc....I have run my 2.0 car both ways. The steering felt better and more connect with the esc on the chassis for me. TLR is coming out with a new esc mount that has a removable tray. So you can run it up or down as needed. This probably wont be out until later this year. So you will need to mod your current part to make it work. I felt that racing indoors it was better. Now if you are outdoors on low grip....I dunno. It is a $7ish part. I would try it up high, then try it down low. Pick the one you like best. IMO, the 22 still likes weight up front. I run my short all the way forward, with the esc on the chassis. this moves the weight forward. I also removed weight from the rear of the car via a lighter slipper and bones. So this frees the car up a little. You may or may not want to free up your car. I suggest starting off with frank roots OCRC RM setup. It is actually quit good outdoors. And indoors. I ran it outdoors with the esc on the shelf and run the same setup indoors, but with the esc on the chassis and the battery full forward. I made changes to the setup a few times and never liked the results. So I just left it.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:09 PM
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So, the ESC is going on the chassis BEHIND the battery, or in front of?

ESC behind the battery, and moving the battery up towards the servo is probably what my 1.0 needed...


ETA, I have a spare, unused ESC shelf for my 1.0. Is this part the same on the 2.0? (In case I get a little carried away modding stuff.)
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:16 PM
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For stock 17.5 would you guys recommend using the slipper or direct spur
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tiago890
For stock 17.5 would you guys recommend using the slipper or direct spur
Loose track slipper, Medium to high bite slipper eliminator. the good thing is its really easy to switch between them so if you feel you need a little slip it take about 5 mins to switch.
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:55 PM
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Have the exotek slip eliminator on now and it gets a little loose coming onto the straight so will try the slipper to see if it helps
Cheers
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:21 AM
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I'm trying to streamline the switch between mid-motor and rear-motor. What motor connectors are you guys using that make this transition a little easier?
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:26 AM
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The only connector you want is the 4 or 5 mm bullet connector> to the LiPo. All other connections are straight solder. So go buy 3 ft of black wire and a real good solder gun and install new wire.
Originally Posted by monsterfarm
I'm trying to streamline the switch between mid-motor and rear-motor. What motor connectors are you guys using that make this transition a little easier?
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:04 AM
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Does anyone know the weight of the orion blocks that are being used? Or a clean looking alternative?
Also, where can the brass antisquat blocks be found?
Im starting to put my 1/10 stuff back together after a brutal summer of 1/8 racing.
What seems to be the favored shock package for must with the current setups?
Ill be starting with the ryan/dakota setup and tweaking from there.
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