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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 09-05-2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
hey guys outside of weight distribution is there any benefit when running mid motor to run the esc up close on the waterfall and push the battery forward rather than placing the esc behind the servo and running the battery back?
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:38 AM
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:16 AM
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Looks good Rob!
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:22 AM
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Always lookin Fresh Rob
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dmatter
Looks good Rob!
Originally Posted by XXXDad
Always lookin Fresh Rob


Thanks fellas!
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:24 AM
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Only asking in here cause I know it gets attention from the top level TLR guys. Trying to officially reach Mr. Eduardo Cruz, where can I find his official contact info? Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:00 AM
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If someone is going to start racing a buggy, and already has some 2WD and 4WD SCT exp. what would be best way to set it up mid. or rear motor configuration? On a track with good traction indoors.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
If someone is going to start racing a buggy, and already has some 2WD and 4WD SCT exp. what would be best way to set it up mid. or rear motor configuration? On a track with good traction indoors.
I fell RM is more consistant and easier to drive. MM is tyically faster but more senstive to track changes. If your track has high grip go with MM with the track is med to low or grip level varies greatly I would go RM until you get the hang of driving a buggy. This is just my opinion.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:15 PM
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Does anyone here has access to a CNC machine to make some parts I designed for the TLR 22? A 3D printer could be nice too. Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth
Does anyone here has access to a CNC machine to make some parts I designed for the TLR 22? A 3D printer could be nice too. Thanks.
yes.....

send me the .stl file
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason Snyder
yes.....

send me the .stl file
Thank you sir, you have PM.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:41 PM
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I have a similar question as what was asked earlier about mounting the ESC to the chassis in front of the battery with no waterfall. I have been able to set my car up this way only using the v1 Exotek bellcrank steering (full sized servo). With an Orion just in front of the battery which is all the way up against the motor. So for my question, will having the car set up this way put too much weight bias to the front of the car? I noticed I had to add as much as 30g over the rear transmission to get it feeling right.

Other than having to add weight it seemed fine, but this put me at a disadvantage in 17.5 and 13.5 classes since my car was now heavier. I never really ran mid motor with the normal mid motor mount that allows you to put the esc on top of the battery strap. Will running it this traditional way be too different than this? I noticed a lot of top guys get by just fine running it the way described in the manual, just with added weight. I just don't understand the difference besides changed weight bias, and center of gravity.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
I have a similar question as what was asked earlier about mounting the ESC to the chassis in front of the battery with no waterfall. I have been able to set my car up this way only using the v1 Exotek bellcrank steering (full sized servo). With an Orion just in front of the battery which is all the way up against the motor. So for my question, will having the car set up this way put too much weight bias to the front of the car? I noticed I had to add as much as 30g over the rear transmission to get it feeling right.

Other than having to add weight it seemed fine, but this put me at a disadvantage in 17.5 and 13.5 classes since my car was now heavier. I never really ran mid motor with the normal mid motor mount that allows you to put the esc on top of the battery strap. Will running it this traditional way be too different than this? I noticed a lot of top guys get by just fine running it the way described in the manual, just with added weight. I just don't understand the difference besides changed weight bias, and center of gravity.
Nemaris, I run my TLR buggy without the motor brace in it. I have the TLR 50g rear weight on my diff housing. It comes with 4g and 5g added weights. That screws into the bottom of the weight. Like an upside down T. I put the 4g weights. In front of the rear A-arms. I use a long screw with a locking nut on top of the weight.

I just purchased some side pods brass weights from Rocket RC.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:12 AM
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When running Mid Motor this is what you need>
http://nebula.wsimg.com/c140ec8bb3db...&alloworigin=1

The Problem with running Stock with MM car is that when running MM you need to add weight. That's why most all run Stock in Rear Motor Configuration.
I run Mod in MM and Stock 17.5 Blinky in RM.
Why you say: Lighter car. In RM you have the Traction advantage so using a slipper eliminator and cut gears and ceramic bearings gives you the edge. Along with your $200+ ESC and $150 +motor $100+ LiPo, and all the titanium parts $100+. Stock aint Stock anymore.

Last edited by XXXDad; 09-09-2014 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:00 AM
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Running a med to high grip track, say a 13.5 to 17.5 motor in rear mount and if running the std. battery (long) would any weight be required?
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