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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 09-01-2014, 06:20 AM
  #8461  
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Originally Posted by dbracn
Jp and skipgear,

Thanks for all the help with my shock questions. For jps answer why would I have more steering with the 3 hole pistons? Does it roll more causing the tire to be in contact with the ground or does it pull the rear end around? What are your thoughts on running the 2 hole 1.5 pistons in front vs the 3 hole 1.4?
3 hole 1.4 is going to be quite a bit softer dampening than a 2 hole 1.5. 3 hole 1.4 is closer to the static feel of a 2 hole 1.7 but will have a bit more pack. For comparison, it would be somewhere between a stock 55 and 56 4 hole piston.

That is the problem with all this. You get into very complex fluid dynamics and it really comes down to trial and error to see what works for you. Even if you had a shock dyno setup up to test all the combinations, until you put them on the car and drive it for yourself, they are just numbers.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:29 PM
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1. Will someone please tell me where I can find the little screws that go in the rear hex of the 22 2.0 in a set? Can those be purchased separately? I lost one on my set and I don't want to pay $18 for a new set of hexes. If they are not available, does any other manufacturer make a screw that will work for them.

2. Out of the available setups on the website for the 22 2.0, which one would be most suited for a tight, indoor, very hard packed clay track, that is kind of damp/wet, I'd say medium to high bite? I've tried the Root/Dunford standard indoor mid-motor setup and it handled well, but just seemed like the car was lazy and way off-pace. Absolutely refused to be pushed hard, would wreck every time you tried to run at the pace of the other cars. Which setup is the typical "starting point" for a track like this? I am running the car mid-motor.

Thanks!
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by elikeatts
1. Will someone please tell me where I can find the little screws that go in the rear hex of the 22 2.0 in a set? Can those be purchased separately? I lost one on my set and I don't want to pay $18 for a new set of hexes. If they are not available, does any other manufacturer make a screw that will work for them.

2. Out of the available setups on the website for the 22 2.0, which one would be most suited for a tight, indoor, very hard packed clay track, that is kind of damp/wet, I'd say medium to high bite? I've tried the Root/Dunford standard indoor mid-motor setup and it handled well, but just seemed like the car was lazy and way off-pace. Absolutely refused to be pushed hard, would wreck every time you tried to run at the pace of the other cars. Which setup is the typical "starting point" for a track like this? I am running the car mid-motor.

Thanks!
M2 x 5mm is what the manual said.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:30 PM
  #8464  
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[QUOTE=elikeatts;13506323]1. Will someone please tell me where I can find the little screws that go in the rear hex of the 22 2.0 in a set? Can those be purchased separately? I lost one on my set and I don't want to pay $18 for a new set of hexes. If they are not available, does any other manufacturer make a screw that will work for them.

I dont think tlr makes any as I had the same problem.I use screws from dubro. They are 2mm x 6 socket head cap screws and they work great in the hexes. I couldn't find them on amain. I have the part number as dub2112. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SkipGear
3 hole 1.4 is going to be quite a bit softer dampening than a 2 hole 1.5. 3 hole 1.4 is closer to the static feel of a 2 hole 1.7 but will have a bit more pack. For comparison, it would be somewhere between a stock 55 and 56 4 hole piston.

That is the problem with all this. You get into very complex fluid dynamics and it really comes down to trial and error to see what works for you. Even if you had a shock dyno setup up to test all the combinations, until you put them on the car and drive it for yourself, they are just numbers.
Id like to try out the 3 hole pistons this winter in my indoor series but I don't see 3 hole pistons from TLR on amain, which ones are people using?
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:12 PM
  #8466  
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Originally Posted by wrathfull
Id like to try out the 3 hole pistons this winter in my indoor series but I don't see 3 hole pistons from TLR on amain, which ones are people using?
I believe the AE's will work if you ream out the hole for the shock shaft but I'm not sure, haven't tried it. Then it gets even more confusing as they offer tapered and straight hole versions.

You could always drill your own. Losi offers blank pistons.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by elikeatts
1. Will someone please tell me where I can find the little screws that go in the rear hex of the 22 2.0 in a set? Can those be purchased separately? I lost one on my set and I don't want to pay $18 for a new set of hexes. If they are not available, does any other manufacturer make a screw that will work for them.

2. Out of the available setups on the website for the 22 2.0, which one would be most suited for a tight, indoor, very hard packed clay track, that is kind of damp/wet, I'd say medium to high bite? I've tried the Root/Dunford standard indoor mid-motor setup and it handled well, but just seemed like the car was lazy and way off-pace. Absolutely refused to be pushed hard, would wreck every time you tried to run at the pace of the other cars. Which setup is the typical "starting point" for a track like this? I am running the car mid-motor.

Thanks!
You running stock or mod? What tires and foams? Did you run my part of the setup, or Ryan's?
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:40 AM
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Can someone put up a side view picture of the chassis, I got one on trade and I'm not sure if it is bent or if it is supposed to be that way. but on the front kick-up it has a double bend in it one for the initial kick-up right where the front section meets the main center part which I know is supposed to be there, and is bent again about half way up. I am not sure if this is correct or not and as I am possibly going to sell or trade this after I go thru it I don't want to sell it if it is not correct or damaged. I'll post a pic tonight when I get off work and school to show what I am talking about if no one knows or this is not a good description, and is confusing, as pics are worth a 1,000 words.

Last edited by Braxamus; 09-02-2014 at 04:27 AM.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
You running stock or mod? What tires and foams? Did you run my part of the setup, or Ryan's?
Most times I see Eli he's running mod with proline ions, not exactly sure on foams but I think it's open cell foams up front with closed in the rear. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:28 AM
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to frank root, are losi still making 1/th off road tyres as they are getting hard to find? if no, why not?? cheers john, ps ,they were awesome, sad
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Can someone put up a side view picture of the chassis, I got one on trade and I'm not sure if it is bent or if it is supposed to be that way. but on the front kick-up it has a double bend in it one for the initial kick-up right where the front section meets the main center part, and is bent again about half way up. I am not sure if this is correct or not and as I am possibly going to sell or trade this after I go thru it I don't want to sell it if it is not correct or damaged. I'll post a pic tonight when I get off work and school to show what I am talking about if no one knows or this is not a good description, and is confusing, as pics are worth a 1,000 words.
That second bend be crash damage, worse luck.
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:03 AM
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Kind of what I was thinking but I have never had one of these before, and just wasn't sure. I hate to sell stuff if I know its not right and exactly how I would want it to be cause Im kind of weird like that. even though I got it that way on trade I could not feel right to sell it that way if it is damaged.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:43 AM
  #8473  
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Originally Posted by Errokk
Most times I see Eli he's running mod with proline ions, not exactly sure on foams but I think it's open cell foams up front with closed in the rear. Hope this helps.
Ions is probably some of it. I set my cars up running Dirt Webs fronts on a higher grip track which gives a lot of steering.

To "liven" the car up, you can always remove weight. You may just need to go down in rear spring/oil depending on how you drive and how much weight you have in it.

Originally Posted by johnny-g
to frank root, are losi still making 1/th off road tyres as they are getting hard to find? if no, why not?? cheers john, ps ,they were awesome, sad
No, sorry. Although they worked very well in the right conditions, we just were not selling enough to keep the line intact, and once certain treads/compounds were out, then even the better selling ones started slowing.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:57 AM
  #8474  
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Hey Frank,

Noticed a couple interesting things on your stock RM setup. Hoping you can please clarify a few things:

Battery full forward -- Are you full forward in the stock 2.0 battery box, with the esc in the rear? Or are you further forward? Maybe you moved the battery box forward, not using the forward most holes? Battery placement/weight bias is huge factor in setup.

30 deg kickup/0 caster -- was this to get more turn in? Help explain.

1-inside rear/1-outside front -- seems like you are running a stand up rear shock, and a more laid down front. Reasoning?

1.5 piston in front -- i don't think i have seen this in RM config before. Too much steering? Had to smooth it out?

0 limiters in rear -- did you unscrew the shock ends at all?

Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:12 AM
  #8475  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Hey Frank,

Noticed a couple interesting things on your stock RM setup. Hoping you can please clarify a few things:

Battery full forward -- Are you full forward in the stock 2.0 battery box, with the esc in the rear? Or are you further forward? Maybe you moved the battery box forward, not using the forward most holes? Battery placement/weight bias is huge factor in setup.

30 deg kickup/0 caster -- was this to get more turn in? Help explain.

1-inside rear/1-outside front -- seems like you are running a stand up rear shock, and a more laid down front. Reasoning?

1.5 piston in front -- i don't think i have seen this in RM config before. Too much steering? Had to smooth it out?

0 limiters in rear -- did you unscrew the shock ends at all?

Thanks!
Sure thing.

1. 2.0 battery tray in the standard forward mounting position, with the battery against the front of the mount.
2. No, the 30/0 doesn't have more turn in. It smooths the transition of weight on to and off of the front end. With Dirt Web fronts, which are more aggressive, it just makes it a little more consistent for me.
3. I've really liked the front shock with laid in on the tower RM or MM. Smooths the steering out and makes the shock a little "softer". I usually go up a spring, or add 1mm washer under the inner front link when going to this option.
4. I had it from the MM setup, and kept it. Worked well, and didn't see any reason to change it.
5. No, I would have listed than on the setup sheet. In stock, you don't need the same stability as you would in mod (which you can achieve with more droop).

Thanks!
Frank
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