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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 08-09-2014, 10:22 AM
  #8251  
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Originally Posted by Beaker151
Try adding a little bit of drag brake. This can help slow the car down to help carry speed through turn and possibly eliminate the need to hit the brakes.
I'd prefer not to do that because I like the car to coast the way it does right now, but I will tuck that away just in case.

Originally Posted by seth556
Check all your bearings, one may just be bound up.
Will do Seth, thanks for your help!
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:55 AM
  #8252  
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Got my exotek rack in - while waiting for the tlr one (if cant just buy the steering blocks)



definitely looks like it will gain some low speed steering.

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Old 08-09-2014, 02:54 PM
  #8253  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
Got my exotek rack in - while waiting for the tlr one (if cant just buy the steering blocks)



definitely looks like it will gain some low speed steering.

you will definetly gain steering, it is already on mine
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:55 PM
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Was rebuilding shocks for the first time since getting this buggy and when I took the rears off I noticed the rear arms were binding and not flopping free like the fronts. I can't tell where it is binding from. Anyone ever have this problem?
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Old 08-09-2014, 03:07 PM
  #8255  
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Originally Posted by jbrooks39
Will less toe-in help a car to pivot or free it up in rotation?

Ex: going from 3.5 to 3.0 rear toe.
Less toe will free the car up through the turns, but sometimes more toe will help the car rotate. I'd give it a shot and see what you think.
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Old 08-09-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by redracerd
you will definetly gain steering, it is already on mine
i hope so the lack of low speed steering is the only thing holding me back from loving this car.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:28 PM
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Just bought a 22 yesterday, cant wait to try it out
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainHowdyt13
Was rebuilding shocks for the first time since getting this buggy and when I took the rears off I noticed the rear arms were binding and not flopping free like the fronts. I can't tell where it is binding from. Anyone ever have this problem?
check your shim in the rear inside arm and make sure its a .5mm shim.




Drove my kids 22 after the qualifying today for the Short Course showdown. It was really good. Debating running it for the last qualifier tomorrow, lol.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:19 PM
  #8259  
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Hey everyone,
I apologise in advance for the search not working for me. But I have just one question in regards to the mid-motor build.
Step B-5M, the screws listed are 4x TLR5904 for holding the shock tower to camber block but the diagram shows 2x TLR5909 going into the underside of the camber block. The 16MM screws look to go better into the shock tower but I'm unsure. Is this just a misprint?
Again sorry, as this was probably addressed but couldn't find it.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:58 PM
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I wanted to throw a shout out to TLR and their team driver Rocco Epler. After my kid broke an arm on a practice lap, before her first race. He saw her car sitting there on the wall and asked whos car that was. I told him it was my kids. He asked me if I needed an arm, because he had extras. As it turns out, I didnt need one, as there was one in my spares bag. But it was great of him to offer, and just another example of the awesome TLR drivers we have. Thanks again Rocco Epler.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Debating running it for the last qualifier tomorrow, lol.
I know what you mean, I've got a B5M to try latelly and never knew which one to run. I was going back and forth every qualifyers and ended up not working on setup anymore. I've decided to let go the B5M and go back fulltime on my trusty 22!
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by J@UNE
I know what you mean, I've got a B5M to try latelly and never knew which one to run. I was going back and forth every qualifyers and ended up not working on setup anymore. I've decided to let go the B5M and go back fulltime on my trusty 22!
I like the b5m and I am getting better at driving mm. But the 22 is so freaking plush. We have a mogul section and the 22 is so much faster and smoother in the bumps. My kids 22 weights 1630 grams and still feels pretty nimble and quick. If the new bell cranks at the steering I want, I will probably just go back to tlr for my cars. The support from the tlr drivers has always been pretty good.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:37 PM
  #8263  
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Thought I'd share pics of my new 22's almost ready to run.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8M...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8M...it?usp=sharing
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:12 PM
  #8264  
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Originally Posted by offroad racer
Hey guys I have a question that I hope you can help me with. I have the 1.0 with a bunch of 2.0 upgraded parts and I run on an indoor clay track that I would say has medium to medium high bite. I am running rear motor with my battery pack all the way back. The problem I am having is in the turns whenever I tap the brakes more than about 20% my car's tail whips around and kills whatever line I had going. It isn't a slight-whip, more like 180-225* every time. Do you think this could be due to the fact that I have all the weight in the back and I should try maybe moving the battery forward?
Move the battery forward. It will lengthen the polar moment on the car and make it react a bit slower making it easier to drive. It will cause the car to push a bit more off power so the next step is to add a small amount of drag brake. No more than 5-10% just enough to get the weight transfer to the front of the car.

An analogy told by Porsche 911 driving instructors that applies here:

"What happens when you slide a hammer across the shop floor toward the wall? Which end hits the wall first? Always the head/heavy end of the hammer and your car will be the same way. Almost every Porsche crash is backwards into the wall."

With all the weight in the rear of the car, soon as it breaks traction, the center of mass is what leads the car. The heavy end goes to the wall, or whips out in this case. The rear motor car really doesn't need any more weight in the back. Run the battery forward and also run the smallest spur you can get away with and still maintain the gear ratio you want. It will bring the motor as far forward as possible to help get rid of some of the swing weight hanging over the rear wheels.

Also, where is your push brake set now. You should set your push brake to the point that at full brake, it just scrubs the tires and doesn't go into full lock.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:39 PM
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A little off topic... I am pleasantly surprised how well baking RC tires in an oven at 350 degrees for 12 minutes completely separates the tire from the rim so cleanly. I accidentally glued my Scrub fronts in opposite directions an hour ago and due to my OCD I couldn't let it go. So I preheated the oven to 350 and baked them for 12 minutes and boom...came apart nicely with a flat head screw driver and some finesse. Only thing I didn't reuse was the open cell foam as it deformed slightly. Never drink and mount tires kids... lesson of the day.
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