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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 07-08-2014, 08:44 PM
  #7861  
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Originally Posted by gixxerman
What were you running for diff fluid and is there anything else that needs to be replaced to switch to a gear diff?
7k is my starting point for all tracks. Then I either step down to 5k to essentially loosen the diff or go up to 10k to tighten it back up.

Nope, but if you are running pucks you'll have to go back to stock CVAs.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Never heard of the "other" guy.
I've seen him before! It was a few weeks ago at a big race, he was - wait, no.. I'm wrong. I haven't heard of him either.

I'll watching to see where this goes though, you know, before the whole bandwagon things starts up.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:05 AM
  #7863  
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I've got a quick question regarding the 22 2.0 mid and Orion VST 2 motors.

I had some issues with an Orion VST2 in rear configuration where the solder tabs would touch the motor guard. I've heard that this would be worse with mid? How do the team drivers fit these motors?

Dakotha_Orion_Cactus
pic of the VST2 in mid

Thanks

Last edited by Mclogo; 07-09-2014 at 07:32 AM. Reason: added pics
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:47 AM
  #7864  
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http://youtu.be/JI7M0epoY1c
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:44 AM
  #7865  
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It looks like my thrust washers are shot. I was rebuilding the diff and doing a bench break in and tightening rotation. On my last 1/8th turn, I ran it for like 5 minutes with one wheel off the ground and afterward the diff felt like CRAP. not crunchy, it felt wavey and bad. I thought maybe the break in process wore out the diff gear from the friction of running the car with one tire off the ground at 20% throttle. But after further inspection, I believe the thrust washers are shot. They look terrible. I will try to see if the shop has the TLR washers, but if no. Will the AE thrust washers work? I might just get the Avid one if the shop has them, but I need to know my options, as I have a trophy race this weekend. And i want to get my kids car squared away.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:53 AM
  #7866  
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AE thrust washers should work fine for you Leigh.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:56 AM
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ok, cool matt. Since the avid fits the AE and 22, I figured so. I will just get the avid if they have it. The AE washers are like $6, the TLR stull is like $7 and the caged thrust is around $10. Worth the extra cash to not deal with small balls.... But just in case no one has the avid, I need a back up plan.


lol, my wife told me not to cut corners on my kids car just because she was 9 and running in novice, lol. She lectured me on giving the kids car just as much effort as I would mine, meh. Normally the kid get hand me down tires and parts/cars....wives...
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:36 AM
  #7868  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, cool matt. Since the avid fits the AE and 22, I figured so. I will just get the avid if they have it. The AE washers are like $6, the TLR stull is like $7 and the caged thrust is around $10. Worth the extra cash to not deal with small balls.... But just in case no one has the avid, I need a back up plan.


lol, my wife told me not to cut corners on my kids car just because she was 9 and running in novice, lol. She lectured me on giving the kids car just as much effort as I would mine, meh. Normally the kid get hand me down tires and parts/cars....wives...
Have you tried Caspers?

Avid also makes a Steel captured one that is less maintenance.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Have you tried Caspers?

Avid also makes a Steel captured one that is less maintenance.
I was thinking tungston for the avid, why steel?
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I was thinking tungston for the avid, why steel?
Read the lower section.

http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html

I was wrong about maintenance it was the adjust ability i wanted to refer to.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:44 AM
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yeah, that is why I was going to get the tungsten. I dont really want a narrow tuning window, nor do i want extra maintenance. So it seems like the best bet for now.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, cool matt. Since the avid fits the AE and 22, I figured so. I will just get the avid if they have it. The AE washers are like $6, the TLR stull is like $7 and the caged thrust is around $10. Worth the extra cash to not deal with small balls.... But just in case no one has the avid, I need a back up plan.


lol, my wife told me not to cut corners on my kids car just because she was 9 and running in novice, lol. She lectured me on giving the kids car just as much effort as I would mine, meh. Normally the kid get hand me down tires and parts/cars....wives...
I was the first to come out with this style thrust bearing for RC diffs in these sizes. I had to search for quite a while to find someone that would make a grooved bearing in this small size we use in current diffs. (Not to be confused with it being my idea as grooved washers have been used for years but this size was previously not available.) I fully disagree with Avid in there description for use in the thurst bearing. The thrust bearing does not see the shear load you get with the main diff balls. As a result the thrust bearing material choices differ from that you would want to choose for the main balls. I agree that cermaic for the main balls narrow the adjustment window for tuning your diff. The smoother surface finish make it harder to set the diff if ceramic are used for the main balls. Tungsten balls are better for the main balls for this reason. I have not noticed any issues with setting a diff using ceramic thrust balls. I only notice smoother diff build. Also these grooved washer thrust bearings are reusable. Typically see customers get 3-5 diff rebuilds out of a bearing. Impossible to do with a std open flat washer bearing. So there is significant value in that.

I also sell a great thrust bearing lube that is excellent for ring and pinon gears and any other metal to metal contact. Has an ingredient that will wear into the to metal over time and reduce friction. Has a great consistancy to not creating too much drag when applied but stays in place well.

My diff lube is a lighter consistancy than the TLR lube which helps in setting the diff easier. TLR stuff works great but you need to set the diff a little tigher that you normally feel is nessary as the grease gives a little bit of a false diff setting feel. The AE stuff breaks down and separates but has a good consistancy. My diff lube is the best of both worlds.

Also can't get better than Casper-RC support here on-line! Also free shipping anywhere in the US!

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Old 07-09-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
I was the first to come out with this style thrust bearing for RC diffs in these sizes. I had to search for quite a while to find someone that would make a grooved bearing in this small size we use in current diffs. (Not to be confused with it being my idea as grooved washers have been used for years but this size was previously not available.) I fully disagree with Avid in there description for use in the thurst bearing. The thrust bearing does not see the shear load you get with the main diff balls. As a result the thrust bearing material choices differ from that you would want to choose for the main balls. I agree that cermaic for the main balls narrow the adjustment window for tuning your diff. The smoother surface finish make it harder to set the diff if ceramic are used for the main balls. Tungsten balls are better for the main balls for this reason. I have not noticed any issues with setting a diff using ceramic thrust balls. I only notice smoother diff build. Also these grooved washer thrust bearings are reusable. Typically see customers get 3-5 diff rebuilds out of a bearing. Impossible to do with a std open flat washer bearing. So there is significant value in that.

I also sell a great thrust bearing lube that is excellent for ring and pinon gears and any other metal to metal contact. Has an ingredient that will wear into the to metal over time and reduce friction. Has a great consistancy to not creating too much drag when applied but stays in place well.

My diff lube is a lighter consistancy than the TLR lube which helps in setting the diff easier. TLR stuff works great but you need to set the diff a little tigher that you normally feel is nessary as the grease gives a little bit of a false diff setting feel. The AE stuff breaks down and separates but has a good consistancy. My diff lube is the best of both worlds.

Also can't get better than Casper-RC support here on-line! Also free shipping anywhere in the US!

|
V
ive used caspers in all my cars and have not yet had to buy another. I do not have to rebuild my diff but maybe 3 times a year ( i do not run much) and I am on the same thrust bearings in my 22 2.0 /22-4 and 22T. I sold my SCT with the thrust bearing and that diff was still smooth.
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
ive used caspers in all my cars and have not yet had to buy another. I do not have to rebuild my diff but maybe 3 times a year ( i do not run much) and I am on the same thrust bearings in my 22 2.0 /22-4 and 22T. I sold my SCT with the thrust bearing and that diff was still smooth.
I am sure caspers are fine. By my LHS carries the avids and I need one this Friday
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:28 PM
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Always go with the Casper RC ones if you can. I have a bunch of the B5 nation people ordering them now too
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