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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 06-30-2014, 10:51 AM
  #7801  
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Originally Posted by brad996
Here is what Frank posted the other day about 22-4 arms

They have 4-5mm more droop and hubs middle vs. hubs middle moves the axle forward 5mm. So WAY more droop and WAY more bone lock up. It'll give you more rear grip, but it just made my car push like crazy.
This way my experience. For a less experienced drive, it may help them still. BUT... I am thinking that if that is the case, RM might also be a good option. Afterall, the 22 2.0 is REALLY GOOD RM!
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:32 AM
  #7802  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
This way my experience. For a less experienced drive, it may help them still. BUT... I am thinking that if that is the case, RM might also be a good option. Afterall, the 22 2.0 is REALLY GOOD RM!
What is your current MM setup and electronics layout Frank? I am curious how the 22 has evolved over the last year.
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:33 AM
  #7803  
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Originally Posted by brad996
Here is what Frank posted the other day about 22-4 arms

They have 4-5mm more droop and hubs middle vs. hubs middle moves the axle forward 5mm. So WAY more droop and WAY more bone lock up. It'll give you more rear grip, but it just made my car push like crazy.
Some things to understand about using the 22-4 arms on the rear of a mid motor 22.

you put the right on the right and left on the left. The shocks mount to the outside of the arm with 2-4 mm of spacers between. You have a total of 6mm of spacing you have to fill in for the hub now. The two mounting locations are the center and the outside of the stock arm, you lose the inside hole (although many dont use that hole for mid motor so its ok)

droop- if you mount to the inside shock hole, you have more droop than most of us run in our mid motor 22. I happen to unscrew my shocks on the stock arm so I screwed my shocks all of the way in, it still wasnt the same droop. This extra droop causes the bone to be VERY close to the end of the outdrive. If you use the outer hole, it is pretty close.

rear hub spacing - you do not want to go much past 2mm behind the hub. I have tried everywhere from 0-2mm behind hub and have settled on 1.5mm behind hub which means I have 4.5mm in front of the hub. This gave me lots of traction and lots of steering. This hub spacing is SUPER sensitive. I am probably going to go back to 1mm behind hub and get steering out of the front.

I only have 1 night on these arms so this is all the data I have so far as I was trying based on the topic coming up often. I plan to do more testing.
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:51 AM
  #7804  
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Are you learning anything from the 22-4 arms that would lead to new 22 rear arms that are less "modded"
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Are you learning anything from the 22-4 arms that would lead to new 22 rear arms that are less "modded"
There reall is not any "modding" going on. You put the 22-4 arms on and get longer screws and some spacers to attach them to the arms. It helps if you have 22-4 outerhinge pins but not required. I used a little thread lock on mine as the nuts did not thread to the nylon until 22-4 hinge pins come in and then add 2mm more spacer to the hub spacing.

It is all VERY easy to do just need some addtional spacers you should have in your pit stuff anyway and longer screws.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:11 PM
  #7806  
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How about using the 22t chassis with the 22-4 arms? The wheelbase would become closer to stock right?
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:18 PM
  #7807  
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Originally Posted by J@UNE
How about using the 22t chassis with the 22-4 arms? The wheelbase would become closer to stock right?
I think wheel base as well as bone angle all play into this change. Not sure if we take away enough wheel base to use the longer ST chassis but not sure.
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Old 06-30-2014, 06:12 PM
  #7808  
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hey i just bought a losi 22 from someone online. and i just got it all hooked up and having some issues. my servo. savok coreless is constantly making a noise and when i lift buggy it turns way right. and my radio and reciever i can not seem to get calibrated correctly and i followed manuel correctly. when i hit rev/ brake it goes forward and when i hit accelerate/throttle it does nothing. any tips would be greatly appreciated. then lastly this is just a curiosity not a problem but servo cord and the cord from speed sensor to the reciever are realley long any tips for hiding or something for more space
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:03 AM
  #7809  
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What ESC are you using please. Turn on the system and then put on servo horn in center. In radio you set motor direction.You need to recalibrate the trigger once you have in in proper settings . You can fold the extra wire on it self and then cover the fold with shrink wrap.

Originally Posted by Fkoppers
hey i just bought a losi 22 from someone online. and i just got it all hooked up and having some issues. my servo. savok coreless is constantly making a noise and when i lift buggy it turns way right. and my radio and reciever i can not seem to get calibrated correctly and i followed manuel correctly. when i hit rev/ brake it goes forward and when i hit accelerate/throttle it does nothing. any tips would be greatly appreciated. then lastly this is just a curiosity not a problem but servo cord and the cord from speed sensor to the reciever are realley long any tips for hiding or something for more space

Last edited by XXXDad; 07-02-2014 at 05:16 AM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:54 AM
  #7810  
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Originally Posted by Fkoppers
hey i just bought a losi 22 from someone online. and i just got it all hooked up and having some issues. my servo. savok coreless is constantly making a noise and when i lift buggy it turns way right. and my radio and reciever i can not seem to get calibrated correctly and i followed manuel correctly. when i hit rev/ brake it goes forward and when i hit accelerate/throttle it does nothing. any tips would be greatly appreciated. then lastly this is just a curiosity not a problem but servo cord and the cord from speed sensor to the reciever are realley long any tips for hiding or something for more space
What radio and speed control are you using ? We can help more if we know what parts you are running

It sounds like you just need to take the servo horn off, make sure all steering settings are centered on your radio and then reinstall the horn
On the throttle you need to reverse the throttle setting on the radio. It should be very simple change
If you want reverse you will have to change that in the speed control setting
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:07 AM
  #7811  
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Are there any setup sheets based on a 22 2.0 with the new bell crank steering setup? Maybe the better question is, what changes do you typically make to your setup once you've moved to bell cranks?
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:15 AM
  #7812  
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
Are there any setup sheets based on a 22 2.0 with the new bell crank steering setup? Maybe the better question is, what changes do you typically make to your setup once you've moved to bell cranks?
Since I don't have the crank yet, I don't know what needs to be changed.

But Evan's latest setup posted on TLR has the bell cranks:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...,%20slicks.pdf
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kdeleon
Since I don't have the crank yet, I don't know what needs to be changed.

But Evan's latest setup posted on TLR has the bell cranks:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...,%20slicks.pdf
Thanks, too bad it's a MM setup.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:56 PM
  #7814  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Some things to understand about using the 22-4 arms on the rear of a mid motor 22.

you put the right on the right and left on the left. The shocks mount to the outside of the arm with 2-4 mm of spacers between. You have a total of 6mm of spacing you have to fill in for the hub now. The two mounting locations are the center and the outside of the stock arm, you lose the inside hole (although many dont use that hole for mid motor so its ok)

droop- if you mount to the inside shock hole, you have more droop than most of us run in our mid motor 22. I happen to unscrew my shocks on the stock arm so I screwed my shocks all of the way in, it still wasnt the same droop. This extra droop causes the bone to be VERY close to the end of the outdrive. If you use the outer hole, it is pretty close.

rear hub spacing - you do not want to go much past 2mm behind the hub. I have tried everywhere from 0-2mm behind hub and have settled on 1.5mm behind hub which means I have 4.5mm in front of the hub. This gave me lots of traction and lots of steering. This hub spacing is SUPER sensitive. I am probably going to go back to 1mm behind hub and get steering out of the front.

I only have 1 night on these arms so this is all the data I have so far as I was trying based on the topic coming up often. I plan to do more testing.
I would like to add to this a little. One thing you will also want to do if you try this is to raise the rear tower. The car doesnt have enough up travel and wont land correctly if you dont. I have mine up 1.5mm and I think that is plenty.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:40 AM
  #7815  
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Hey everyone, quick question. Do TLR 22 wheels fit on the older XXX cars?? Or have they changed the design?
Thanks
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