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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 05-27-2014, 03:59 AM
  #7636  
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Originally Posted by memyselfandI
contact Otto Ausfelt a local TLR factory driver he will help you out...
Already did. He's actually considering making a 2wd out of the 22-4 and is also going to try MM for the tlr22.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:26 AM
  #7637  
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Originally Posted by FemaleRCfan
Can someone help me find the set up sheets for the OCRC races for the pro drivers PLEASE
Go to TLRacing.com under setups for the TLR 22 2.0. There is a setup that says OCRC on it and both of the 2014 Reedy Race setups are from OCRC.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:31 AM
  #7638  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I use the 3-2 and I can pull wheelies outdoors. Thr rm car has soooooo much traction. If you dont have forward bite, your tires must not be right
Tires are good, it's just certain turns when i get back on power I could use a little more forward bite. In it's current form, I need to roll on the power a little easier then I'd like.

Is there a quick way to swap anti-squat spacers?
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:01 AM
  #7639  
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Just picked up a 22 2.0. I had a 1.0 a while back and loved it just had to get out for a bit. I have a couple questions that I am sure have been answered, but 500 pages is alot to read through on a phone and the search function sucks. What are the go to spares for this kit? What is recommended gearing for a 6.5 on large open outdoor track? Should I get regular springs or the lf springs for same large outdoor track? do 22-4 front wheels fit this buggy? And is the bellcrank steering option available yet? The one thing I really didnt like about the car before was the slider. Glad there is a fix.

Thanks

Bronson
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:11 AM
  #7640  
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Originally Posted by theproffesor
Just picked up a 22 2.0. I had a 1.0 a while back and loved it just had to get out for a bit. I have a couple questions that I am sure have been answered, but 500 pages is alot to read through on a phone and the search function sucks. What are the go to spares for this kit? What is recommended gearing for a 6.5 on large open outdoor track? Should I get regular springs or the lf springs for same large outdoor track? do 22-4 front wheels fit this buggy? And is the bellcrank steering option available yet? The one thing I really didnt like about the car before was the slider. Glad there is a fix.

Thanks

Bronson
The part I have broken the most is the front shock tower, front shock tower mount and the front spindles. But TLR says they are updating the spindles to be stronger. No idea if that update is in effect yet.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:48 AM
  #7641  
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Originally Posted by FemaleRCfan
Can someone help me find the set up sheets for the OCRC races for the pro drivers PLEASE
I posted 4 below to choose from. They are all from OCRC.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil..._Mid_Motor.pdf

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...Reedy_Race.pdf

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...Reedy_Race.pdf

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...Root_Setup.pdf
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:02 AM
  #7642  
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I have a question on my 22 mid motor anti-squat shims and t-plate that goes on top of the suspension hanger.
The part is 234009 and here is the link:
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...uat-Tuning-Set

My question is if someone is running 2% of anti-squat does that mean they are running the number 2 shim with the corresponding 2 on the t-plate (Iím not sure what that piece is called)

If thatís correct, what happens if your running 2% shim on the bottom of the hanger and a #1 on the top t-plate above the suspension hangerÖ.

Thanks,
Jacob
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:20 AM
  #7643  
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This car needs .5 degree hubs in the worse way.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by yz167
I have a question on my 22 mid motor anti-squat shims and t-plate that goes on top of the suspension hanger.
The part is 234009 and here is the link:
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...uat-Tuning-Set

My question is if someone is running 2% of anti-squat does that mean they are running the number 2 shim with the corresponding 2 on the t-plate (Iím not sure what that piece is called)

If thatís correct, what happens if your running 2% shim on the bottom of the hanger and a #1 on the top t-plate above the suspension hangerÖ.

Thanks,
Jacob
If you mismatch the lower/upper anti-squat shim, you will not have the transmission stack up correct and will be bending the chassis to get it lined up (one way or the other).

Originally Posted by Gitsum
This car needs .5 degree hubs in the worse way.
We make a 3.5* toe plate. From our testing, the hub toe is not as powerful as the inner toe adjustment.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:06 PM
  #7645  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
If you mismatch the lower/upper anti-squat shim, you will not have the transmission stack up correct and will be bending the chassis to get it lined up (one way or the other)
I sized them up against each other and didn't see any difference so I figured they were the same. I'll have to go in and make sure I have the matching set in there.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:29 PM
  #7646  
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As much as it pains me... I switched from MM to RM for outdoor east coast racing. I put it on the track today and the rear grip is great. So much better I can actually really drive the car. No more feeling like I have to baby it all the time. If I go mod I'll try it MM and use some weight. But 17.5 I just didn't want to add weight to get traction.

For the rear motoring running the 1 degree anti squat shim. Should I go up to 2 or 2.5 to get the last bit of rear traction and out of corner on power steering? I'm already running the 0 degree front casters.

I'm also thinking about adding 1mm under the tranny. See what that does for me.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:50 PM
  #7647  
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Originally Posted by kjrell
MM works nicely on low grip, with 64% weight on the rear end and 0į antisquat i got as much traction as RM setup.
The debate will rage forever. Whatever works for a particular racer, do it.

The mechanics of the designs say; regardless of total wheel weight, having the motor hanging 2 inches back behind the rear tires aids in rear bite on power and turn in steering due to the pendulum effect.

Some of this can be tuned out or in and if the surface and driving style allow something to work and the wins are coming, awesome!
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
We make a 3.5* toe plate. From our testing, the hub toe is not as powerful as the inner toe adjustment.
Not to start anything but you might want to revisit the testing 3.5 inboard vs 3 inboard n .5 out on the hubs offers a different feel and does come in very useful at times. To not offer anything more than the standard hubs is just limiting yourselves.
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:27 PM
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Thank you Frank for the quick response! Now I understand it thoroughly
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:49 AM
  #7650  
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Ok now I have added the 5 degree caster blocks ( from 10 degrees ) so with the 4mm trail spindles and the caster blocks should this be an improvement in handling from stock ( 22 1.0) setup. I will be getting a 2.0 for next season but I have to finish out this season with the 1.0 so I am trying to get it to drive as close to the 2.0 as possible (cheap). Currently I am in 3rd place at my club after 3 races and I am racing against a 2.0 and a bunch of ae b4.1 team buggies. Any help would be great
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