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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 05-08-2014, 07:45 AM
  #7486  
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For those guys who run the 22 2.0 in stock i did some weighing the other day and thought id share:

22 2.0 rear motor
Tekin rs Gen2 mounted to the chassis
Shurr Speed 17.5
no slipper using the Exotek Slipper locker
MIP Pucks system
Capser Thrust bearing (Shout out) And grease
Spectrum 6040 servo
Using kit screws and some nuts. I am using about 6 aluminum nuts through out.
Jconcepts front hex adapters
standard turnbuckles and ball cups.

Probably missing something.

1st picture is under Roar minimum using the protek 2s 3200 mah pan car battery. Comes in at 1471 g

2nd picture is with the R1Wurks White Lighting battery and comes in at 1533

I also weighed the batteries to see the difference.

my R1 Wurks batteries are not broken in yet so I still prefer my Protek packs over anything else I have tried.

the cars ready to run are 62 g different

the batteries are 58 g different.

I also weighted two of my other older batteries to see the different and those came in at 201g

FYI: i weighed everything 6 times back to back to took the weight i got the most consistent.

Just thought I would share with you guys so you could spend a little less and still have a lite stock buggy.
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-22-weight.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-22-weight-2.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-batt-protek.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-batt-r1.jpg  
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:46 AM
  #7487  
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the other two batteries I use in my buggy and my 22T
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-batt-speed.jpg   TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread-batt-tp.jpg  
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:52 AM
  #7488  
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Thumbs up Body off pic

Thanks for doing this, if you have time I would like to see the ESC on the chassis pic please . Where can I get a scale like that one??
Originally Posted by Carranza76
For those guys who run the 22 2.0 in stock i did some weighing the other day and thought id share:

22 2.0 rear motor
Tekin rs Gen2 mounted to the chassis
Shurr Speed 17.5
no slipper using the Exotek Slipper locker
MIP Pucks system
Capser Thrust bearing (Shout out) And grease
Spectrum 6040 servo
Using kit screws and some nuts. I am using about 6 aluminum nuts through out.
Jconcepts front hex adapters
standard turnbuckles and ball cups.

Probably missing something.

1st picture is under Roar minimum using the protek 2s 3200 mah pan car battery. Comes in at 1471 g

2nd picture is with the R1Wurks White Lighting battery and comes in at 1533

I also weighed the batteries to see the difference.

my R1 Wurks batteries are not broken in yet so I still prefer my Protek packs over anything else I have tried.

the cars ready to run are 62 g different

the batteries are 58 g different.

I also weighted two of my other older batteries to see the different and those came in at 201g

FYI: i weighed everything 6 times back to back to took the weight i got the most consistent.

Just thought I would share with you guys so you could spend a little less and still have a lite stock buggy.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:26 AM
  #7489  
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Originally Posted by XXXDad
Thanks for doing this, if you have time I would like to see the ESC on the chassis pic please . Where can I get a scale like that one??
Id have to ask my wife I "stole" it to weigh my stuff but most likely wal mart or target. I can get you the name brand if you want. She uses it to weigh her food portions. Its not in use now because she is 6 months pregnant.!! so it was the perfect time to "use" it!

I wll get a pic of the body off tonight. All i did was cut out the ESC tray and mounted it where the back of the battery butts up to it.

I run my battery in one position and that all the way forward.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:39 AM
  #7490  
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I am looking to figure out what to do about my daughters 22. We are going to be moving and will be racing indoors on medium bite clay. The tires of choice are worn down m4 ions with sauce. I have been running laps in practice for the past we weeks and the 22 2.0 with franks RM OCRC setup is pretty good. I have also used this setup outdoors and liked it. But here is my issue and has always been my issue with the 22 series. The car starts off great and then eventually pushes worse than a dump truck. As traction comes up, the rear of the car gains traction much faster than the front. The change is so dramatic, that I feel like I need to have different rear tires for each round. Maybe goto a m3 for the 2nd qual or main. Ideally, I would be able to set it and forget it. Has anyone had success with making the cars f/r traction more consistent as the traction level changes from power sliding to traction rolling and wheelies over the course of a race night? I almost feel like I need 2 cars, lol. A RM for practice and 1st qual, then a MM for 2nd qual and the main.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:42 AM
  #7491  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am looking to figure out what to do about my daughters 22. We are going to be moving and will be racing indoors on medium bite clay. The tires of choice are worn down m4 ions with sauce. I have been running laps in practice for the past we weeks and the 22 2.0 with franks RM OCRC setup is pretty good. I have also used this setup outdoors and liked it. But here is my issue and has always been my issue with the 22 series. The car starts off great and then eventually pushes worse than a dump truck. As traction comes up, the rear of the car gains traction much faster than the front. The change is so dramatic, that I feel like I need to have different rear tires for each round. Maybe goto a m3 for the 2nd qual or main. Ideally, I would be able to set it and forget it. Has anyone had success with making the cars f/r traction more consistent as the traction level changes from power sliding to traction rolling and wheelies over the course of a race night? I almost feel like I need 2 cars, lol. A RM for practice and 1st qual, then a MM for 2nd qual and the main.
I aasume your running mod with that set up?

Have you tried AKA typos all the way around?

are you on throttle in the turns?

Typos (amazing in SS and Clay) and Dirt Webs ( i have not tried them yet) seems to be the go to tires on high bite clay tracks.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
I aasume your running mod with that set up?

Have you tried AKA typos all the way around?

are you on throttle in the turns?

Typos (amazing in SS and Clay) and Dirt Webs ( i have not tried them yet) seems to be the go to tires on high bite clay tracks.
It is mostly off power steering. On power too, but I dont use much throttle entering the corners, I just try to keep my speed even in the turn until I am exiting then, I will roll on the gas. Again, the car is grerat until the track grooves up. I could drive around the issue, by ajusting my line and such, but I am trying to improve the car for my 9 year old. She is getting much better and was able to turn 7 laps in a row with a 1 second range last week on our outdoor track. Which is a BIG improvement over the last few months. I just dont want the car to be too pushy for her indoors. I might just convert it to MM next week and see how it is in practice. She tried MM outdoors and hated it, and begged me to convert it back, lol.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by vicdamone11
Oh very nice. I was holding out for the TLR version, but i might just pull the trigger on this.

How much was it? And did you need to do any kind of mods, is the aluminum that much heavier then the stock, i have been avoiding adding weight to the front of the buggy.
No Mods. I wanted to wait for the TLR version as well, but didn't want to wait. And with the price drop, it was totally worth it. The only thing I would add to the instructions is that in the Kit build with a Spektrum 6040, you add shims. When installing the Exotek, you remove those shims.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:51 PM
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Are there any recent outdoor mid motor 17.5 setups? I've been running indoor with a slightly modified Dustin Evans setup from RCE 10/13/13 (east coast here). Went outside for the first time last night and the track was a bit loose. Couldn't get her to square up out of the turns. Kept over rotating with the slightest little blip of the throttle. I felt like I was on edge driving the car and couldn't push it at all.

I'm thinking about going to Rear Motor but would rather stay with Mid. I see the modified setup sheets are adding a ton of weight to help keep the traction up on the MM. With 17.5, I'm hesitant to add any weight. I did stuff 35 grams on top of the rear diff, which helped indoors. Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
Are there any recent outdoor mid motor 17.5 setups? I've been running indoor with a slightly modified Dustin Evans setup from RCE 10/13/13 (east coast here). Went outside for the first time last night and the track was a bit loose. Couldn't get her to square up out of the turns. Kept over rotating with the slightest little blip of the throttle. I felt like I was on edge driving the car and couldn't push it at all.

I'm thinking about going to Rear Motor but would rather stay with Mid. I see the modified setup sheets are adding a ton of weight to help keep the traction up on the MM. With 17.5, I'm hesitant to add any weight. I did stuff 35 grams on top of the rear diff, which helped indoors. Any help would be appreciated!
I tried MM outdoors. All I can say is go RM or stick to your indoor track. For low bite outdoors, MM is not the best. And yeah, adding a bunch of weight to a 17.5 will increase motor temps and making the car not drive as well, imo.
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Old 05-08-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
Are there any recent outdoor mid motor 17.5 setups? I've been running indoor with a slightly modified Dustin Evans setup from RCE 10/13/13 (east coast here). Went outside for the first time last night and the track was a bit loose. Couldn't get her to square up out of the turns. Kept over rotating with the slightest little blip of the throttle. I felt like I was on edge driving the car and couldn't push it at all.

I'm thinking about going to Rear Motor but would rather stay with Mid. I see the modified setup sheets are adding a ton of weight to help keep the traction up on the MM. With 17.5, I'm hesitant to add any weight. I did stuff 35 grams on top of the rear diff, which helped indoors. Any help would be appreciated!
I agree with Wildcat, sounds like you may need to go back RM.

Out of curiosity, what tires are run at your track?
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
I agree with Wildcat, sounds like you may need to go back RM.

Out of curiosity, what tires are run at your track?
I didn't know we were running outdoors, so I was only equipped with a good set of Dirt Webs. My buddy lent me a set of Hole Shots. They hooked up much better but I was still all over the place. This is a common tire for the track apparently.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
I didn't know we were running outdoors, so I was only equipped with a good set of Dirt Webs. My buddy lent me a set of Hole Shots. They hooked up much better but I was still all over the place. This is a common tire for the track apparently.
yeah, I run m4 holeshots on the rear of my 22's (RM) and I would not think dirt webs would be great if its loamy at all. I highly doubt your indoor tires will work well outdoors. Maybe if the track was hard packed and grooved up, but not if its loamy. MM plus the wrong tires would NOT be fun to drive. If you plan to race their again get some better suited tires. If the local fast guys are running MM with m4 holeshots, you should do the same. dont use an overly agressive front tire either. I tried holeshot fronts on my mm and it was very hard to drive. I went to rips and m4 suburbs depending on the track conditions.
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, I run m4 holeshots on the rear of my 22's (RM) and I would not think dirt webs would be great if its loamy at all. I highly doubt your indoor tires will work well outdoors. Maybe if the track was hard packed and grooved up, but not if its loamy. MM plus the wrong tires would NOT be fun to drive. If you plan to race their again get some better suited tires. If the local fast guys are running MM with m4 holeshots, you should do the same. dont use an overly agressive front tire either. I tried holeshot fronts on my mm and it was very hard to drive. I went to rips and m4 suburbs depending on the track conditions.
Still cant believe HobbyTown has that much traction. When I left Tucson ( yeah it was 2007) I ran the BowFighter combo in both buggy and truggy. And 1/10 was Step pins, bow ties and if it was a brand new track, you might be able to get away with fuzzy's or holeshots but that was hit or miss. But it was M2 slicks at Competition all year long.

For your issue with front traction thru the day....
Have you tried adding a little drag brake after the first round to help with weight transfer going into a corner? I did this recently (it never occurred to me as I had 2 or 3 sets of tires my race day) and it mad a huge difference. Just a touch or 2 after the 1st and maybe another after the 3rd. I ended up dropping 3/4 of a second thru out the day. while everyone stayed at 1st heat pace. Moved me from the middle/ end of the B to top 4-5 in the A. Yeah, its that close. Good luck.
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
I didn't know we were running outdoors, so I was only equipped with a good set of Dirt Webs. My buddy lent me a set of Hole Shots. They hooked up much better but I was still all over the place. This is a common tire for the track apparently.
Not an absolute type of thing, but I'd think if Holeshots were the best tire, RM would be the way to go.
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