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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 03-18-2014, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Roken
So what does it mean that the new axles eliminate the need for the 1mm axle spacer? I thought the loose rear axle was the hot ticket. Do you know if you will still have the option for 1mm rear axle play.
The 1mm shim is not really used for axle play, it"s main use is to adjust the axle plunge into your outdrives which is another adjustment tool you can use on the car. You can loosen or tighten the rear up but I can"t remember which does what. I think a deeper plunge tightens the rear.
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowracer24
The 1mm shim is not really used for axle play, it"s main use is to adjust the axle plunge into your outdrives which is another adjustment tool you can use on the car. You can loosen or tighten the rear up but I can"t remember which does what. I think a deeper plunge tightens the rear.
Removing the axle shim tends to give the car more rear grip.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:56 PM
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Dakotah,
At the Cactus, did you feel your car had an advantage over the competition in any area like corner speed, jumping or straight line grip. Also since we have seen the pictures of the new steering setup on your car, how does it compare to the slider?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Removing the axle shim tends to give the car more rear grip.
just so I understand... For more rear grip the shim goes inside or outside of the rear hub upright? You don't just take it off all together, right?
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dakotah Phend
Setup is posted at TLRacing.com.
Thanks..for the hard work and all the set up advice. .
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz
just so I understand... For more rear grip the shim goes inside or outside of the rear hub upright? You don't just take it off all together, right?
Remove completely for more rear grip.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:03 AM
  #7057  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
just so I understand... For more rear grip the shim goes inside or outside of the rear hub upright? You don't just take it off all together, right?
The shim either goes on the inside, or is removed all together. It is never intended to be used on the outside.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
So last weekend I broke a front shock tower during practice laps before the main. I quickly grabbed my daughters car and threw it down to run in the main. For the most part the car sucked, because I had round 2 tires on the car still and the track needs a different tire in the main because the moisture comes up. So i had to baby the car and counter steer quite a bit. That is fine because of the wrong rear tires, plus it made driving exciting, lol. But at the end of the straight we have a 180 degree turn. I can in full wood, applied break just before I turned into the corner and was rewarded with what felt like the drive terrain locking up. And the car actually stopped and hesitated before I would go. At first I thought I glitched or something. But this happened every lap that I came in hard and turned hard. If I widened my turning radius into an outside to outside line, there was no issue. I took apart the rear and checked for binding but didnt find any. I rear greased the moving parts in the cvd's and reset the diff. But again, nothing seems to be the cause. So here are my thoughts on the cause.

-Sensor wire going out. her esc is sensored but will automatically swap to sensorless if the sensor wire breaks. It kinda felt like a cog, but more like binding because the car slammed on the brakes basically.
- She has some wear in the outdrives. Not severer, but definitely starting the notching process. I would not think this amount of wear would do this, but since it did it on hard cornering, I am thinking it might be binding just enought to hook the car. Although, it was delaying when throttle was applied also.


Very weird issue.
Had a similar issue. My SCTE 2.0 was nose diving over jumps and seemed to be braking really hard off throttle. I called Tekin and they recommended a clean and rebuild of the motor. I pulled the motor out and the truck moved on the ground smooth. Then I disassembled the motor and it was filled with dust and small dirt particles. I cleaned it really good and now there is no more drag. Our track gets super dusty and the fine dirt apparently made its way inside the motor. Worth a look. Good luck!
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
Had a similar issue. My SCTE 2.0 was nose diving over jumps and seemed to be braking really hard off throttle. I called Tekin and they recommended a clean and rebuild of the motor. I pulled the motor out and the truck moved on the ground smooth. Then I disassembled the motor and it was filled with dust and small dirt particles. I cleaned it really good and now there is no more drag. Our track gets super dusty and the fine dirt apparently made its way inside the motor. Worth a look. Good luck!
I cleaned the motor before the last weekend and didnt notice the issue repeat, so its possible.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jedev
Dakotah,
At the Cactus, did you feel your car had an advantage over the competition in any area like corner speed, jumping or straight line grip. Also since we have seen the pictures of the new steering setup on your car, how does it compare to the slider?
My car was really good everywhere, but I felt I had an advantage in the high speed s-section after the sweeper and also in the low speed corners I was able to get through a lot faster.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:52 PM
  #7061  
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Default Exotek rack

Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
I basically ended up on JPs setup with the exception of white rear springs, red front springs, middle hole on the rear arm, and 2 hole 1.6 up front. The car is really good now.

Is anyone having problems breaking servos in this car? I have the exotek rack and I have gone through a spektrum 6070, 6040, and airtronics 94774 in one month. I had never broke a servo previous to this.
I know this is an old post but I had the same problem with the Exotek rack in my 22sct. Broke the horn drive nose right off on three servos. It was getting pretty expensive. What I discovered is that with the servo being mounted farther back there is a huge cantilever effect on the servo horn and that is what is breaking the servos. JMO
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Roken
I know this is an old post but I had the same problem with the Exotek rack in my 22sct. Broke the horn drive nose right off on three servos. It was getting pretty expensive. What I discovered is that with the servo being mounted farther back there is a huge cantilever effect on the servo horn and that is what is breaking the servos. JMO
Good work finding that out man!

But wow... Crap work on Exotek's part, doing their R&D... El crapola.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Roken
I know this is an old post but I had the same problem with the Exotek rack in my 22sct. Broke the horn drive nose right off on three servos. It was getting pretty expensive. What I discovered is that with the servo being mounted farther back there is a huge cantilever effect on the servo horn and that is what is breaking the servos. JMO
What did u do to fix it? Space the servo back forward again?? Or sell the rack???
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
The shim either goes on the inside, or is removed all together. It is never intended to be used on the outside.
I am new to the 22 2.0 buggy but does this work with both mid motor also?
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
I am new to the 22 2.0 buggy but does this work with both mid motor also?
Yes
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