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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 03-12-2014, 09:54 AM
  #6931  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
It is all based on what works best for you. Most that runt he RRC anti squat plate find they don't need the big 50g weight out back. I have seen some add 1-3 of our 7g tranny weights though.
Issue being that most of the brass weights that toolmaker makes are out of stock (ie the brass anti squat). Not knowing the ETA, some are trying to come up a with a work around and come up with similar placement of the weights.
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:25 AM
  #6932  
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Does JP Richards use after market parts on his set up.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:58 AM
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Dont mean to pollute this thread.... but I see a couple people mentioning they are looking for the Rocket RC parts that are out of stock. Im selling mine if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ass-parts.html
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:11 PM
  #6934  
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I also have a couple of the pieces I am getting rid of.... PM me if your interested.

V-2 Mid-Motor Caster Extender/Bulkhead
2.0 Mid-Motor Brass Anti-Squat Weight Block
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:57 PM
  #6935  
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Does JP Richards use after market parts on his set up.
Yes, he does. He has TLR2061, as well as TLR brass weights. Looks like he also roasted those new tires down the center for more traction.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:02 PM
  #6936  
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan
Yes, he does. He has TLR2061, as well as TLR brass weights. Looks like he also roasted those new tires down the center for more traction.
Those are OEM parts (made by TLR for this car), after market is something made by exotek, Rocket RC and the like.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:35 PM
  #6937  
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So last weekend I broke a front shock tower during practice laps before the main. I quickly grabbed my daughters car and threw it down to run in the main. For the most part the car sucked, because I had round 2 tires on the car still and the track needs a different tire in the main because the moisture comes up. So i had to baby the car and counter steer quite a bit. That is fine because of the wrong rear tires, plus it made driving exciting, lol. But at the end of the straight we have a 180 degree turn. I can in full wood, applied break just before I turned into the corner and was rewarded with what felt like the drive terrain locking up. And the car actually stopped and hesitated before I would go. At first I thought I glitched or something. But this happened every lap that I came in hard and turned hard. If I widened my turning radius into an outside to outside line, there was no issue. I took apart the rear and checked for binding but didnt find any. I rear greased the moving parts in the cvd's and reset the diff. But again, nothing seems to be the cause. So here are my thoughts on the cause.

-Sensor wire going out. her esc is sensored but will automatically swap to sensorless if the sensor wire breaks. It kinda felt like a cog, but more like binding because the car slammed on the brakes basically.
- She has some wear in the outdrives. Not severer, but definitely starting the notching process. I would not think this amount of wear would do this, but since it did it on hard cornering, I am thinking it might be binding just enought to hook the car. Although, it was delaying when throttle was applied also.


Very weird issue.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:53 PM
  #6938  
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Did you actually end up rolling backwards at th eend of the straight? If you did that could be the issue as some esc's get confused when the car is all of a sudden rolling backwards and the esc wants to go forwards.
You can test this by simply rolling the car backwards on the floor and applying a little throttle to see if it stumbles.
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:50 AM
  #6939  
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Going to be getting a 22 here shortly and would like to know what the preferred battery is for the car for both MM and RM. Are there any specific extras to grab for the car also? IE option parts? TIA
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:03 AM
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For you guys wanting to get ahold of the rocket rc brass parts you might check with GS HOBBY. Not sure if i can post links or phone numbers but you can figure out how to get all that. They had all the atuff yall are looking for in stock just the other day.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Fliegel
Going to be getting a 22 here shortly and would like to know what the preferred battery is for the car for both MM and RM. Are there any specific extras to grab for the car also? IE option parts? TIA

Most people are running hardcase shorty packs in their 22 buggys. Its all i use personally. For rear motor you really dont need any option parts for it to be solid. In fact in rear motor configuration the thing is dialed. Just takes a little tuning just like any vehicle. In MM configuration you may need to add quite a bit of option parts tk get it to work. Most are adding some of the brass parts Rocket Rc has to offer, myself included. The 22 in MM configuration suffers from lack of rear traction. I wont go into a lot of detail but most are adding the brass parts, such as the brass antisquat and the brass rear camber block. Those two parts add up to around 60 grams of total weight added over the rear axle...which is exactly where you want it. Keep in mind if you plan on running stock that all this added weight may hinder performance. I run a 17.5 in mine with all the added weight, simply bc my track doesnt follow the spec "blinky" mode rules. I run all tekin electronics and with boost it is still faster then others on the track as far as power goes. And with all the added parts it is pretty dialed in to my likings. Not to point fingers but i was not at all impressed with my buddies orion powered b4. He runs stock as well and on my track there is a big double the stock buggys have trouble clearing without boost. We boosted his car to the absolute max and he still barely clears it. Mine, even with all the added weight and only halfway up as far as boost manages to clear it like a mod buggy would. I recently took it to about the max in boost and it is unbelievable. Hobby shop sold a lot of tekin stuff that next week...lol
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:09 PM
  #6942  
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Got a quick pole/ question for everyone on here.

How do you guys mount your ESC when running RM. I have mine on top of the rear bulkhead and was thinking of cutting it and stuffing it behind the battery?

Show us your undies

BTW, Tekin RS Pro with Shorty pack is what I am using.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:54 PM
  #6943  
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I've got mine on the ESC shelf, but am thinking of moving it down to the frame. Its about the same size as an Tekin, but 3mm taller and almost twice as heavy,lol Wouldnt trade it for nothin else !
http://www.advanced-electronics.se/i...od_esc_adv1003
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:54 PM
  #6944  
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Does JP Richards use after market parts on his set up.
On my Reedy setup I had the TLR331007 side pod weights cut down to 10gms each instead of 18 and I was using the 4gm weights from the TLR4151 weight system mounted next to the pivot on each side behind the motor, like Dustins in this pic. I am also running the Aluminum Rear Camber block TLR2061

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...s/DSC_6274.jpg

JP
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:27 PM
  #6945  
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Originally Posted by sickpuppy1
I've got mine on the ESC shelf, but am thinking of moving it down to the frame. Its about the same size as an Tekin, but 3mm taller and almost twice as heavy,lol Wouldnt trade it for nothin else !
http://www.advanced-electronics.se/i...od_esc_adv1003
I didnt like the way it fit sitting normally so I got a little creative with the dremmel. I took some off the front of the shock tower and some off the bottom. I turned it on its side with the posts up top and mounted it that way. 2 pieces of tape on the bottom and one on the top. It sits nice and snug between the chassis and the shock tower. With a chunck of foam on the packs, cut so they dont push the buttons, I think it will be good to go. I guess we will see this weekend. If not, Im buying a new bulk head and putting it back on top.
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