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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 03-11-2014, 09:13 AM
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How much weight you guys adding for MM mod racing. I have the 50g TLR weight in the rear and am thinking about adding rocket-rc side pod weight. Would that be too much weight?
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Jokermayhem
Hey Frank... any chance TLR is going to be making aluminum 4mm trailing arm spindles for the 22 2.0? They seem to make ever other mm except the direct replacement 4mm that comes with the 22 2.0? A lot of people have been breaking them... even team guys in my area. Anxiously awaiting ....
We have no plans for them at the moment. We haven't seen any excessive breaking of the stock spindles, and the original 22 aluminum spindles did not sell well.

Originally Posted by MasiisaM
Thanks Skeeter…Yes I am building the car MID Motor configuration. I noticed I uploaded the REAR motor diagram by mistake. I was wondering why people were being complete ******* ***holes AKA Weavty. So below is the correct diagram. As anyone that has built this for mid motor knows the motor mount is on the left side of the car. Then showing the head of the screw on the right side of the car when the text says to make sure it's on the left is CONFUSING for some. It's an error in the manual and i'm doing nothing more than pointing it out. It's not a huge mistake, but a mistake that is worth pointing out as it caused some confusion.


The text in the Mid Motor image you uploaded says to put the screw on the right side, which matches the image. In the rear motor section, the image and text says left side. I double checked the manual in both locations, and both are correct between the text and images, and correct to what we recommend.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:49 AM
  #6903  
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan
How much weight you guys adding for MM mod racing. I have the 50g TLR weight in the rear and am thinking about adding rocket-rc side pod weight. Would that be too much weight?
I also have tlr2601 (rear camber) which adds to the rear weight. My MM car has never hit the track. I see many guys are not using the 50g rear weight, so this is why I am bringing up the question about weight. On the side pods, I was going to run the brass weight in the center of the side pod. Again, MM - mod car, 8.5T motor, saddle packs.

Last edited by JourneyMan; 03-11-2014 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:40 AM
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Seeing talk about the added inside hole on the 2.0 rear arms, makes me have to ask....what effect does using this hole make?
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:44 AM
  #6905  
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Originally Posted by hotrodchevy14
Seeing talk about the added inside hole on the 2.0 rear arms, makes me have to ask....what effect does using this hole make?
The further inside the shock is mounted on the arm, the more leverage the arm/wheel/camber gain/roll centers have on the shocks, and thus make the shock feel softer, and increases the piston speed.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by hotrodchevy14
Seeing talk about the added inside hole on the 2.0 rear arms, makes me have to ask....what effect does using this hole make?
A wheel rate is defined as motion ratio˛ * spring rate, and motion ratio is the distance between the lower shock mounting position and the inner hinge pin divided by the distance between the inner hingepin and the tire's centerline.
Or: wheel rate = spring rate * (D1/D2)˛
Motion ratio is somethimes referred to as 'installation ratio'.
The formula tell us that the closer the bottoms of the shocks are mounted to the middle of the chassis, the softer the wheel rate will be.
Note that if you change the lower shock mounting location, you change both the shock angle and the motion ratio, but it's usually the change in motion ratio that has the biggest effect. The amount of suspension travel also changes, which can also affect the car's handling.
The angle of the shocks, a, has a more subtle effect than the lower mounting position: it changes the way the motion ratio subtly changes as the suspension is compressed.
The shock angle isn't constant either: it gets bigger as the suspension is compressed. This effect is more pronounced as the shocks are more laid down, so the more inclined the shocks are, the more progressive the wheel rate will be. So think of the top mounting positions as a means of fine-tuning spring and damper rates, and changing the progressiveness.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
The further inside the shock is mounted on the arm, the more leverage the arm/wheel/camber gain/roll centers have on the shocks, and thus make the shock feel softer, and increases the piston speed.
Thanks Frank. Would this help with rear traction?
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:58 AM
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Directed my question to the MM thread, sorry about that.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrodchevy14
Thanks Frank. Would this help with rear traction?
That's a pretty loaded question. It depends on a lot of other factors. We found it helped increase steering into the turn, and forward grip/side bite on exit in RM configuration with the 22 2.0 geometry generally.

It is worth a try, but this is a big change. It may require changes to the rear spring, oil, piston and/or droop to fine tune it.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:18 PM
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I asked this in the 1.0 thread already and wanted to see if I got any more info in this thread.

I have a 22 1.0. I was running 4mm trailing spindles with 5 degree caster blocks. On my last outing at the hobby shop I broke a spindle and was sold a 2.0 set and were told they would work and went ahead and installed them on both sides. I was under the impression that all of the front end components needed to be upgraded to get the benefits of the new geometry.

The reason I ask is that I feel like I am not getting enough steering entering corners (I felt like this was an issue before the break as well). I check my epa's on my radio and noticed that at less than 100% the spindle is hitting the caster block, and I have heard of people increasing their steering epas to 120 to 150%. Is this normal and does somebody have a picture of their tires at full steering throw that I can compare to my tires at full throw to determine if that is the issue or if I just need to work on my set up.
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:01 PM
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Hey Guys ,
I have the 22 .20 and am running the kit with franks rear motor setup , The car Pushes on power , i am running ION M4 all the way around the car with OC inserts in from and CC inserts in back , I have been thinking of going to mid motor but Nobody can seem to get it to work at our track , its clay Med bite at best , Any Ideas ?
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:16 PM
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The new cab forward body I had painted by Andy Dibrino.


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Old 03-11-2014, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JP.R
Here would be a good starting point for MM. From what I hear people really like this setup.
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...Reedy_Race.pdf

I personally don't have a RM setup sheet as I don't run it very often, pretty much MM all the time. This is what I hear people running when they are in RM.
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...Root_Setup.pdf

JP
JP, all I can say is I use your setup and it's awesome. I did however put my rear upper shock mount to the far inside hole.

Thanks, Darren
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:38 PM
  #6914  
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Hey Frank, seems like stadium truck is gaining in popularity again. How bout a 2.0T? I want to keep my fleet TLR. Don't make me turn to the dark side ! (ae)
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by professorjason
Hey Guys ,
I have the 22 .20 and am running the kit with franks rear motor setup , The car Pushes on power , i am running ION M4 all the way around the car with OC inserts in from and CC inserts in back , I have been thinking of going to mid motor but Nobody can seem to get it to work at our track , its clay Med bite at best , Any Ideas ?
Check the slipper or to tight of diff?? I had the same problem and this was the case! Same ride height front and rear?
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