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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 03-03-2014, 05:27 AM
  #6736  
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Does anyone know what the ID and OD of the shock o-rings on the 22 are?

Edit: I do not know why the red grumpy face is up there. I didn't put it there.

Last edited by Davidka; 03-03-2014 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 03-03-2014, 05:53 AM
  #6737  
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Originally Posted by Davidka
Does anyone know what the ID and OD of the shock o-rings on the 22 are?
sell the shock shafts are 3.5mm, but that is all i got. I assume your looking to get some from mcmaster?
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HBRC-LBD
Hey Guys,

Can anyone tell me why most pro setup have the front camber measurement in "mm" instead of degrees? How do you measure it?

Any help will be appreciated

Thanks Kev
I think you are referring to the camber rods themselves, measure those with a digital caliper.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
sell the shock shafts are 3.5mm, but that is all i got. I assume your looking to get some from mcmaster?
Yes, they sell good quality X-rings. Based on the metric-standard conversion the 3.5mm puts it between sizes but I am guessing that o-rings are sized for some compression. I can measure, just thought I'd ask in case somebody knew off the top of their head.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:45 AM
  #6740  
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OK fellow Losi racers, time for a dumb question...what's the difference between high and low roll center blocks? Which is best for mid to high bite tracks?

Last edited by hotrodchevy14; 03-03-2014 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40
Anyone using the Exotek steering system? If so, is it worth the cost and effort of installation, or is the impact minimal.
If your running RM the stock slider offers the best steering. If your running MM then a bell crank is preferred. Exotek is good quality but some don't like how far it moves the servo back for electronics layout reasons. There is the kyosho mod witch is cheaper and doesn't move the servo back as far but does require more custom fitting. This has been a hot topic on the thread so if you do a search on it you will find the answers to help you with what to go with
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by fantomdude
If your running RM the stock slider offers the best steering. If your running MM then a bell crank is preferred. Exotek is good quality but some don't like how far it moves the servo back for electronics layout reasons. There is the kyosho mod witch is cheaper and doesn't move the servo back as far but does require more custom fitting. This has been a hot topic on the thread so if you do a search on it you will find the answers to help you with what to go with
Cost difference is about 15 to 20 bucks.

The Exotek work's well with both RM & MM. No building parts to get it to fit. a little dremeling and that's it. If you are using a cab forward body making the electronics is simple.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40
Anyone using the Exotek steering system? If so, is it worth the cost and effort of installation, or is the impact minimal.
The shaving off of material you have to do is very minimal. It's just for clearance of the open ended ball cup attaching the servo horn to the bellcrank. It does move the servo back about 7mm like others have said though. So if space is at a premium for you up front, I would consider a shorty.. or possibly other mounting methods for your electronics.

I have recently modified my rear motor battery brace by cutting off the front part that holds the end of the battery in place, this then allows you to eliminate that piece to save a couple millimeters of space. Since you won't have a front brace to hold the front of your battery in place anymore, you will have to mount your esc right up against the battery to hold it in place. I learned this the other day courtesy of a local TLR driver. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...CRC2014012426/

Or you could modify the rear motor esc shelf like this driver did: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...tModification/
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fantomdude
If your running RM the stock slider offers the best steering. If your running MM then a bell crank is preferred. Exotek is good quality but some don't like how far it moves the servo back for electronics layout reasons. There is the kyosho mod witch is cheaper and doesn't move the servo back as far but does require more custom fitting. This has been a hot topic on the thread so if you do a search on it you will find the answers to help you with what to go with
besides the cost difference isn't that significant.
problem with kyosho mod is that two (undersized) plastic part connected by a set screw isn't that reliable, it will get loose and give up after a while, even if you are a clean driver. and when the rack breaks, you'll need to buy a whole parts tree of steering system (kyosho style).
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:05 AM
  #6745  
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Originally Posted by HBRC-LBD
Hey Guys,

Can anyone tell me why most pro setup have the front camber measurement in "mm" instead of degrees? How do you measure it?

Any help will be appreciated

Thanks Kev
This is an error on the sheet(s). Should be degrees.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:39 AM
  #6746  
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OK fellow Losi racers, time for a dumb question...what's the difference between high and low roll center blocks? Which is best for mid to high bite tracks?
Not a dumb question at all!

High roll center block is going decrease body roll as the suspension increases, it will also increase camber gain

Low roll center block will allow more body roll and decrease the amount of camber gain.

I personally run a LRC block on med/high smooth tracks!

Hope this helps
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by synap2012
Not a dumb question at all!

High roll center block is going decrease body roll as the suspension increases, it will also increase camber gain

Low roll center block will allow more body roll and decrease the amount of camber gain.

I personally run a LRC block on med/high smooth tracks!

Hope this helps
yes it does. Thank You
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:58 PM
  #6748  
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Old 03-03-2014, 05:50 PM
  #6749  
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
The shaving off of material you have to do is very minimal. It's just for clearance of the open ended ball cup attaching the servo horn to the bellcrank. It does move the servo back about 7mm like others have said though. So if space is at a premium for you up front, I would consider a shorty.. or possibly other mounting methods for your electronics.

I have recently modified my rear motor battery brace by cutting off the front part that holds the end of the battery in place, this then allows you to eliminate that piece to save a couple millimeters of space. Since you won't have a front brace to hold the front of your battery in place anymore, you will have to mount your esc right up against the battery to hold it in place. I learned this the other day courtesy of a local TLR driver. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...CRC2014012426/

Or you could modify the rear motor esc shelf like this driver did: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...tModification/
Cool!! I also modded the rear motor batt mount just like that. Wonder who's car that is, as I posted it on the Viper FB page.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamie James
Cool!! I also modded the rear motor batt mount just like that. Wonder who's car that is, as I posted it on the Viper FB page.
If you are talking about the second link, it was mine. A few weeks ago I moved the ESC to the chassis just like the JP Richards link. Unfortunately I only have been to the track once with the ESC on the chassis. I noticed that the car had much more turn-in traction without any reduction of rear traction. I also noticed that the chassis didn't roll as much either.

The cab forward body didn't fit properly with the ESC on the shelf with the wires exiting rearward. Your ESC orientation may work though. I like how the wires are tucked under the waterfall brace.
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