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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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Old 01-11-2014, 06:20 PM
  #5626  
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Default Rocket RC Brass Squat Block

Hey guys. 2wdmod.com did a review about the squat block. For those of you who want to learn more about what it does.

http://2wdmod.com/2014/01/11/a-littl...or-the-tlr-22/
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:26 PM
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Hey guys really dumb question but where can I get cut gears for my car for stock racing?
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:33 PM
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Frank....question on the setup sheet for the Dunsford/Root MM setup recently posted....

The rear camber link indicates no washers under the inner ball.....but all of my TLR ball studs have the small non-threaded shoulder just under the Hex....and if I use no shims the hex sits about 3/4mm off of my aluminum rear plate.....

Are you using stock ball studs? With that non-threaded shoulder...without shims?
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kdeleon View Post
Wow, I must be doing something wrong as I just weighed mine and I'm at 1638. And I don't have any of the brass Rocket RC parts in my car. Here is a pic, maybe you guys can see a blatant issue. The car is pretty much stock 2.0. I do run the chassis protector on the bottom and my wires are stock length (so longer than they need to be). But I also run Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and shock mounts and a shorty battery. I don't have any brass weights in the car. No wonder I'm slower in stock racing.

Thanks for all your suggestions.
Just thought I would mention that your car looks to have quite a bit of toe out in that pic. Maybe it's the angle the pic was taken at? Too much toe out can make a 2wd car wander and feel inconsistent when steering.
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bivens View Post
Frank....question on the setup sheet for the Dunsford/Root MM setup recently posted....

The rear camber link indicates no washers under the inner ball.....but all of my TLR ball studs have the small non-threaded shoulder just under the Hex....and if I use no shims the hex sits about 3/4mm off of my aluminum rear plate.....

Are you using stock ball studs? With that non-threaded shoulder...without shims?
You can slightly chamfer the inner edge of the holes in the camber block to allow the steel studs to thread all the way in. The titanium studs may not have that non threaded "step", I don't know as I don't have any.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vito View Post
I saw in rc car mag one time the don't touch them the tires. they guled the up right out of the bag

Vito,
That is exactly how i mount my tires. Before opening any of the bag i wash my hands in dish soap. Then just take your wheel and tire right out of the bag without touching the bead too much. Next just get your foam in and glue it up. It actually works very well to do this. Ive shown my method to another local fast guy that was wiping his down and still having trouble with them coming unglued. He tried my method and hasnt had a tire so much as budge from the bead.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:49 PM
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The kyosho ball studs work for that
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kdeleon View Post
Wow, I must be doing something wrong as I just weighed mine and I'm at 1638. And I don't have any of the brass Rocket RC parts in my car. Here is a pic, maybe you guys can see a blatant issue. The car is pretty much stock 2.0. I do run the chassis protector on the bottom and my wires are stock length (so longer than they need to be). But I also run Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and shock mounts and a shorty battery. I don't have any brass weights in the car. No wonder I'm slower in stock racing.

Thanks for all your suggestions.
My MM (not RM) is 1625, with titanium turnbuckles, shock mounts, ball studs, and screws throughout. I also rewire all my electronics so the wires are the exact length and use 13AWG wire. Orion Motors are a little bit in the lighter side also, and the newest SPM DSMR Micro Rcae Receiver is ultra small. Little things all add up.

Originally Posted by Bivens View Post
Frank....question on the setup sheet for the Dunsford/Root MM setup recently posted....

The rear camber link indicates no washers under the inner ball.....but all of my TLR ball studs have the small non-threaded shoulder just under the Hex....and if I use no shims the hex sits about 3/4mm off of my aluminum rear plate.....

Are you using stock ball studs? With that non-threaded shoulder...without shims?
I just screw them in by hand. It is usually now more than a turn . We've started to up date alum parts just for this, but not of them have worked though yet.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
My MM (not RM) is 1625, with titanium turnbuckles, shock mounts, ball studs, and screws throughout. I also rewire all my electronics so the wires are the exact length and use 13AWG wire. Orion Motors are a little bit in the lighter side also, and the newest SPM DSMR Micro Rcae Receiver is ultra small. Little things all add up.
Ahh, I didn't know you were also running titanium parts. I also have an Orion motor that I was going to try for the MM setup. I also have the titanium screws, might be a perfect time to add them.

One last question for now, it was not mentioned on your setup, but have you removed the 1mm washer from the rear drive shaft? Might as well take it out now as I begin the rebuild.

Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:30 AM
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if im using a savox 1258 which is suppose to be the same as a spektrum 6040, should I be using the 2mm and .5mm servo spacers?
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:36 AM
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pmfg, there is an M Main at the crc race in mod buggy...... jesus
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by kdeleon View Post
Ahh, I didn't know you were also running titanium parts. I also have an Orion motor that I was going to try for the MM setup. I also have the titanium screws, might be a perfect time to add them.

One last question for now, it was not mentioned on your setup, but have you removed the 1mm washer from the rear drive shaft? Might as well take it out now as I begin the rebuild.

Thanks.
I am not running the spacer.

Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
if im using a savox 1258 which is suppose to be the same as a spektrum 6040, should I be using the 2mm and .5mm servo spacers?
Internals are supposed to be the same, but the cases are different for sure. I am not sure if the spacing is the same.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:06 AM
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Hey Guys,

I ran my MM 22 2.0 most of the day Friday and all day Saturday. I learned a few things, and posted them on the TLRacing.com blog. Check it out here!

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2014/...gs-to-try.html

Frank
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Hey Guys,

I ran my MM 22 2.0 most of the day Friday and all day Saturday. I learned a few things, and posted them on the TLRacing.com blog. Check it out here!

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2014/...gs-to-try.html

Frank
Thank-you Frank,
I too have been running the 2.5 deg rear toe block for the last 4 weeks weeks myself here at SCRC in Cocoa, Fl. with great success. The car rolls through the turns faster and lands better and with more positive feel off of jumps.
Great input!
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:16 AM
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Thats awesome Frank thanks for the heads up on the blog!
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