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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 01-07-2014, 10:48 AM
  #5416  
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2mm is the difference
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonR/C
Ill ask again. What are the differences I should notice between a +4mm spindle and a +2mm spindle. I'm interested in the aluminum spindle set so I'm curious if its worth it based on what the differences are thanks
from my reading. More aggressive turn in and less stable straight line stability. Basically, more twitchy is my understanding.

from the B5M manual:

"Trailing axle is the distance from the king pin to the axle that “trails” behind the pin. The B5 includes inserts to allow
adjustments for trailing axle to three positions: 4mm (standard), 3mm, and 2mm. The standard setup uses 4mm
trailing axle for the most stable handling. For more corner entry steering, try the 3mm trailing axle option.
It is important to adjust the ackermann and wheelbase settings to match the trailing axle adjustment. "
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:11 AM
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Here is another post from before. But also from what I saw in the old thread, if your car is understeering then you might want to try the 2mm for more oversteer.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post12420940
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Jokermayhem
I dont understand how the bellcrank steering rack gives you more steering than the stock slider? Seems like BS to me ???
The stock slider has quite a bit of ackermen gain throughout the throw. With the bellcranks(k parts specifically), the ackermen rate is greatly reduced allowing the outside wheels angle to increase and in turn increases low speed steering. This is my experiance anyway. I do know the exotek bellcranks have a similar ackermen gain compared to the slider because of their longer crank arms.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike C
The stock slider has quite a bit of ackermen gain throughout the throw. With the bellcranks(k parts specifically), the ackermen rate is greatly reduced allowing the outside wheels angle to increase and in turn increases low speed steering. This is my experiance anyway. I do know the exotek bellcranks have a similar ackermen gain compared to the slider because of their longer crank arms.
There is also the fact that the slider basically has the ballstuds always moving in relation to each other. A bellcrank has the ballstuds pivoting around a point. They are vastly different in the amount of Ackerman throughout the throw. A slide rack keeps the wheels more parallel while the bellcrank allows the inside wheel to turn more at full lock.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:28 PM
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What does everyone run for toe on the front of the 22?
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:30 PM
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I dont run any or very close to none.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:55 PM
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Same here, usually 0.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:34 PM
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That for the response about the spindles! I run 0 toe in front also. Anyone experimented with the HRC front block? Or is everyone running the LRC. Reason I asked about the spindles is I have some mid to exit corner front end carving happening. Just looking into calming that down to maintain exit rear traction
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:57 PM
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Gotcha...thanks. So what is the bellcrank system to get the most throw/steering??? Exotek??
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jokermayhem
Gotcha...thanks. So what is the bellcrank system to get the most throw/steering??? Exotek??

either a combo of exotek, kyosho and losi, for this, you use, kyosho arms, exoteck standoffs and hardware, and losi servo mounts cut back 2mm

or kyosho and losi parts.... this has been posted before by kellen...
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the inside of my shock bodies dont look smooth like the outsides. The look pitted/spotty. I would take a picture, but I doubt it would come out well. They feel fine with the TLR pistons, so I will just deal with it.
I made a tool i put in my drill press and efectively polish the anodizing. I have not done this set yet but i did it on my truck and RM along with polishing the shock shafts. Makes a big difference. Smoother than the Kyosho shocks I had on a B4.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by racer x 1
Cuda let me set you up on that Midmotor stuff! i kid you not you will have a whole new level of monkey car after that!
I like monkey cars and you know it.
PM me some details and I'll see what choo talkin bout Willis.
Originally Posted by Carranza76
Mod or stock?


Edit:
Never mind i see your running stock.

Did you feel like you lost any initial power?
Maybe a tiny bit, hardly noticeable if at all but OCRC doesn't have triple sections that only the trickest "stock" setups can clear and that is very considerate of them.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:33 PM
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Here's my rack. Kyosho aluminum arms, standoffs, and plastic akkerman piece. Basically cut the akkerman arm in half, drill into each side to allow for a turnbuckle between them, then put the turnbuckle in and adjust it so it's perfectly straight and the two holes that go to the steering arms are the same width as where the steering mounts to the chassis and front bulkhead. Then cut the standoffs to fit between the chassis and bulkhead, also tap these to 3mm. This should finish up the bellcrank part.

Next start sanding down the servo mounts so the servo mounts a few mm farther back than normal. I tried to do just the inside so I wouldn't cut the holes where the screws come in from the chassis and bulkhead. I also had to shave the side of the servo ears to fit. Then mount everything up and I had to do some sanding on the top of the bulkhead so the servo link and arm doesn't rub. I also shaved down one of the bellcrank arms so it doesn't hit the servo horn.

Took a few hours to get it right, I'll see how it does tomorrow.



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Old 01-07-2014, 08:48 PM
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Hopefully soon we will see the bell cranks from TLR.
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