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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 11-19-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben Burtle
I need some advice. I am going to run the 2.0 here in a month or so. I haven't raced 2wd buggy since brushed motors. So, I don't have many 2S packs. Can I get a recommendation of some packs that would work for this buggy?

There are so many with different C ratings and weights not to mention the shorty packs now. I don't know what would be a good starting point.

If feel that 2wd buggy shouldn't need any more than a 25C. I will be running mod so maybe I'm incorrect on this.

Weight... I honestly have no idea until I put the car on the track. So, I guess this is my biggest concern. What weight of packs do people run on this buggy? Is there a much bigger benefit of adjustment having a shorty pack? I am very in to working on setups on all my cars. So, maybe this is a good thing for me?

Any help is greatly appreciated before I order my packs.
Ben, in mod racing the higher C rating is not really needed. Many mod guys use lower C rating packs to smooth out the power. Weight? That will be track dependent. We have a local TLR guy in mod that run a full pack with 1.5 oz behind the servo. Even in 17.5, I sometimes like to add a little weight with my shorty. The orion WTS system is nice for mod because it allows you to insert weights for tuning. I know another local tlr driver used the orion wts with all of the weights for outdoor racing and none of them for indoor locally. I run a shorty and just add weight as needed for stock and mod. So for packs I would suggest the Orion WTS, Promatch Shorty 50c, Reedy Wolfpack or the Promatch Shorty. Personally, I think the full pack with 50c or less and 5000mah and a weight of 280-300 grams would be fine, then add weight where you want it. You can always guy a higher C pack and lower the punch to calm it down as well. But you pay for the higher C, so its kinda wasteful. my 2 cents

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5C-74V-5000mAh

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=173
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben Burtle
I need some advice. I am going to run the 2.0 here in a month or so. I haven't raced 2wd buggy since brushed motors. So, I don't have many 2S packs. Can I get a recommendation of some packs that would work for this buggy?

There are so many with different C ratings and weights not to mention the shorty packs now. I don't know what would be a good starting point.

If feel that 2wd buggy shouldn't need any more than a 25C. I will be running mod so maybe I'm incorrect on this.

Weight... I honestly have no idea until I put the car on the track. So, I guess this is my biggest concern. What weight of packs do people run on this buggy? Is there a much bigger benefit of adjustment having a shorty pack? I am very in to working on setups on all my cars. So, maybe this is a good thing for me?

Any help is greatly appreciated before I order my packs.
If you're going to run mod I would just get a shorty wolf pack. Theyre like $35-40 on amain. Theyre good batteries.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben Burtle
I need some advice. I am going to run the 2.0 here in a month or so. I haven't raced 2wd buggy since brushed motors. So, I don't have many 2S packs. Can I get a recommendation of some packs that would work for this buggy?

There are so many with different C ratings and weights not to mention the shorty packs now. I don't know what would be a good starting point.

If feel that 2wd buggy shouldn't need any more than a 25C. I will be running mod so maybe I'm incorrect on this.

Weight... I honestly have no idea until I put the car on the track. So, I guess this is my biggest concern. What weight of packs do people run on this buggy? Is there a much bigger benefit of adjustment having a shorty pack? I am very in to working on setups on all my cars. So, maybe this is a good thing for me?

Any help is greatly appreciated before I order my packs.
I am running shorties in my 22SCT and 22 2.0. My best pack is my Reedy 4100, followed closely by a SMC Factory Spec 4300, and trailing way behind are two Turnigy Nanotech 4200s that I use only for practice.

Definitely like the adjustable of being able to move the weight forwards and back as well as being able to do mid-motor with lots of room to spare.
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I see a lot of the current pro setups using 2mm limiters up front. I generically know what drop does, but what specifically were you trying to fix. Also, stiffer springs in the front and softer in the rear would imply your trying to lose front steering and gain rear bite. I see your running on blue groove, so I can see how stiffening the front might help take away some of the steering. I also feel like my car is reacting to quickly, but I also turned up the bec voltage, which i may put back to 6 volts. I have debated a stiffer front spring to maybe keep my rear from coming around to quickly in 90 - 180 deg turns.
More droop up front helps transfer more weight to the rear and side to side in the front. More droop = more weight transfer. Less droop the opposite. Too much droop can make the car car feel a little lazy or create the car to actually traction roll on really high bite. Less droop can make the car feel stiff and a little unresponsive but on really high bite can help bring some stability.

I put the orange front springs on the car to take away a little turn in but improve mid to exit steering. I felt the car was dumping on to the front a little too much and then stalling out mid exit. This spring changed helped with that. Car has tons of rear traciton. Just finding balance. The 2.0 reminds me a lot of my XXX but on steroids!. Car has great rear traction and then dialing in steering to suit. Makes a car that is very easy to drive and be consistant with.

Originally Posted by Ben Burtle
I need some advice. I am going to run the 2.0 here in a month or so. I haven't raced 2wd buggy since brushed motors. So, I don't have many 2S packs. Can I get a recommendation of some packs that would work for this buggy?

There are so many with different C ratings and weights not to mention the shorty packs now. I don't know what would be a good starting point.

If feel that 2wd buggy shouldn't need any more than a 25C. I will be running mod so maybe I'm incorrect on this.

Weight... I honestly have no idea until I put the car on the track. So, I guess this is my biggest concern. What weight of packs do people run on this buggy? Is there a much bigger benefit of adjustment having a shorty pack? I am very in to working on setups on all my cars. So, maybe this is a good thing for me?

Any help is greatly appreciated before I order my packs.
I would recommend starting with Shorty packs. There are lots of good ones out there Venom 3800 60C is a great battery. Way under rated based on feedback I get when people try them. They perform way better then there rating. It is kind of hard to find low "C" rated batteries these days. high "C" rating is good though as they hold voltage better. If you want to detune your power there are lots of settings in any good ESC to help with that. Much better then trying to starve your system wth a low performing battery.

You may want to try a long pack but honestly most of us run shorties all the time. You can always add more weight to your car and put it where you want. If you go long pack you are stuck with the weight and cannot move it as much if at all. Shorty opens up so many more options for you.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:52 AM
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Ben the bottom line with batteries now is that you need 1, maybe 2 and shouldn't have to spend more than 40 bucks on them. The difference between a 40.00 battery and a 100.00 battery is usually the label on the front of it.

There is no universal 'C' measuring system so one companies 50C is another's 70C. So pick the best deal, try one, if it doesn't puff out, then you got a winner.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Ben the bottom line with batteries now is that you need 1, maybe 2 and shouldn't have to spend more than 40 bucks on them. The difference between a 40.00 battery and a 100.00 battery is usually the label on the front of it.

There is no universal 'C' measuring system so one companies 50C is another's 70C. So pick the best deal, try one, if it doesn't puff out, then you got a winner.
+1 My gensace has the lowest IR of any of my newer packs and its a year old. Its a 40c and the others are 70+ C, yet it has the lowest IR, most actual capacity and has over 150 charges on it. So, yeah. I have very little faith in the C rating these days. I just check my own IR on the packs and use them accordingly.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
+1 My gensace has the lowest IR of any of my newer packs and its a year old. Its a 40c and the others are 70+ C, yet it has the lowest IR, most actual capacity and has over 150 charges on it. So, yeah. I have very little faith in the C rating these days. I just check my own IR on the packs and use them accordingly.
With that in mind, what is a good IR reading? What's a bad one?
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:00 PM
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I consider under 2mOhm per cell good. But then again its all relative. Although IR is a good quick and easy way to do it, mah comes into play also. For instance, a pack with and IR of 4 and 4000 and a pack of 4 IR and 4500mah, with the same weight, I would use the 4500mah 4 IR pack. Why? normally, your avg voltage will be higher after 5 minutes with the 4500mah vs the 4000mah pack. Again, this is mainly a concern in 17.5. In, mod the motors and a decent pack are more power than most can use. Anyway, another good test you can do even without the IR is measuring the Avg voltage over time. you can do this with a volt meter, a notepad and a constant load. Or a charger with graphing and avg voltage plotting. Bad, cells come to light with a harder load. This is why SMC uses a 35amp load to test the quality of the cells. I cant do 35amps and I am unsure if 17.5 ever hits a load that high. Currrently I can only do 15amps, which seems to be about the average load for me in 17.5 buggy. So I hit the pack with a 15amps load and write down the packs voltage every 30 seconds. Since my race and practice is 7 minutes max, I plot 7-8 minutes of 15amps. The compare the avg voltage over time to see which packs hold a higher voltage. You can out the time intervals in excel the graph out your packs and visually compare them also. Anyway, some would argue that you need to use more amps to really test the cells. But, my 15amp load is best I can do until I get a Powerlabs or higher priced icharger. Those can do a regen discharge and go as high as 40amp loads. but for my level of skill in driver, 15amps is probably "good enough" to compare my packs and find the better one.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:01 PM
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MIP puck system:
what the deal with the new 2.0 axle spacer and the pucks system, does it support it?
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:19 PM
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So I ran my 22 2.0 for the first time Friday. I have to say I really love this car. I'm not as fast yet, but much more consistant. I gained a whole lap, and actually TQ'ed my first time out with it. I'm running stock with a Revtech 17.5. Right now I'm geared 30/70 on a medium sized indoor med-high bite track. How far should I be able to jump up with the pinnion? My temps were in the 100 - 110 degree range after a 6 minute run. I have plenty of bottom end, but was getting pulled away from a little in the straight.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bigalila
So I ran my 22 2.0 for the first time Friday. I have to say I really love this car. I'm not as fast yet, but much more consistant. I gained a whole lap, and actually TQ'ed my first time out with it. I'm running stock with a Revtech 17.5. Right now I'm geared 30/70 on a medium sized indoor med-high bite track. How far should I be able to jump up with the pinnion? My temps were in the 100 - 110 degree range after a 6 minute run. I have plenty of bottom end, but was getting pulled away from a little in the straight.
Can you add any more timing to the motor? I would try to keep temp under 140, but you should be able to go up four or so pistons before you need to worry about temp.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:28 PM
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Thank you guys for the assistance with the batteries. I think I will be getting shorties so it will open up tuning options for me. I definitely agree with being able to dial power out and keep the efficiency of my system up by running a powerful enough pack. Tekins current limiter is a great tuning option.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bigalila
So I ran my 22 2.0 for the first time Friday. I have to say I really love this car. I'm not as fast yet, but much more consistant. I gained a whole lap, and actually TQ'ed my first time out with it. I'm running stock with a Revtech 17.5. Right now I'm geared 30/70 on a medium sized indoor med-high bite track. How far should I be able to jump up with the pinnion? My temps were in the 100 - 110 degree range after a 6 minute run. I have plenty of bottom end, but was getting pulled away from a little in the straight.
34/35 but check the temps after 2 or 3 min. If you are under 140, you're golden
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bigalila
So I ran my 22 2.0 for the first time Friday. I have to say I really love this car. I'm not as fast yet, but much more consistant. I gained a whole lap, and actually TQ'ed my first time out with it. I'm running stock with a Revtech 17.5. Right now I'm geared 30/70 on a medium sized indoor med-high bite track. How far should I be able to jump up with the pinnion? My temps were in the 100 - 110 degree range after a 6 minute run. I have plenty of bottom end, but was getting pulled away from a little in the straight.
imo, 30T is too small. I run 32T on my reedy and temp at 145ish. But all motors are different. So with your temps, you need more timing or bigger pinion. maybe both. You might want to hit up the revtech thread and ask them about timing. I think they run 30deg on tekin gen2 17.5, reedy's run 40-44deg. They are all different and have different sweet spots.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:48 PM
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Hey do you any of you have any suggestions on how to lessen the wing angle? I snagged a few of the tapered wing mount spacers from an AE buggy and they help but I would still like to remove even more of the angle.
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