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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 11-18-2013, 09:10 AM
  #3916  
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Well, after cleaning up my car, I think I better understand the wheel issue. When I thought about it more, I realized this is an issue with my newer front wheels. When I was cleaning the wheels, I noticed that my "older" front wheels were indented around the hole from being cinched down over and over. My wheel that came of was pretty new and not really chushed around the hole yet. So I am thinking that maybe the plastics needs to be compressed a little before they will stay on. That even thought I tightened them like normal, the plastic starts to compress while driving and thus my nuts get loose and fall off, as the material if getting thinner. Once its fully crushed, when I tighten then, it stay tightened and the plastic is not longer crushing and loosening. Its just a theory, because it only seems to happen with new wheels. So, I probably need to crank down on them when new and keep a closer eye on them.
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Well, after cleaning up my car, I think I better understand the wheel issue. When I thought about it more, I realized this is an issue with my newer front wheels. When I was cleaning the wheels, I noticed that my "older" front wheels were indented around the hole from being cinched down over and over. My wheel that came of was pretty new and not really chushed around the hole yet. So I am thinking that maybe the plastics needs to be compressed a little before they will stay on. That even thought I tightened them like normal, the plastic starts to compress while driving and thus my nuts get loose and fall off, as the material if getting thinner. Once its fully crushed, when I tighten then, it stay tightened and the plastic is not longer crushing and loosening. Its just a theory, because it only seems to happen with new wheels. So, I probably need to crank down on them when new and keep a closer eye on them.
Have you used thread lock? I lost a wheel on my second battery pack in the car, started using thread lock and haven't had an issue since. I don't use it every time, but when the screw goes in without any resistance will pull it back out and put a little on. Most of the time time the gunk that is already on there is enough.
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:57 AM
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yeah, I use thread lock. I really want to stay OEM for now, so I will just try to stay on top of it. And if Frank could get 2 extra turns out of my fronts, my jaw would fall off, lol. They are on there pretty tight.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:20 AM
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The Alum serrated front wheel screws are great. you don't need to tighten them down a ton but they bite the wheel just enough to keep them in place. Highly recommended upgrade.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR1070

Thread lock works as well but you have to keep up on it like was stated. Once you get it all gunked up it holds well and you only need to reapply everyonce in a while but with the serrated screw you don't have to worry about that.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:43 AM
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Hi guys, any advice on shock oil weight and spring weights? I am building my 22 2.0, will be racing it indoors on a med/high bite track. I don't want to build the shocks with the kit oil only to have to rebuild. Any help would be appreciated. I'll be running a mid motor setup (stock 17.5).

Also, do you think it will be necessary to buy the Losi rear weight kit for the mid motor setup? I am heading to the LHS after work today and want to get everything in one trip...

Thanks again!

Doug
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:45 AM
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Funny I came on here to get info about the serrated wheel screws and it was on the first page I looked up. I'll give them a try before going with something aftermarket.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
The Alum serrated front wheel screws are great. you don't need to tighten them down a ton but they bite the wheel just enough to keep them in place. Highly recommended upgrade.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR1070

Thread lock works as well but you have to keep up on it like was stated. Once you get it all gunked up it holds well and you only need to reapply everyonce in a while but with the serrated screw you don't have to worry about that.
are those serrated? they dont look like it in the pick.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
are those serrated? they dont look like it in the pick.
They are indeed serrated. Picture must just not be updated.

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Old 11-18-2013, 11:17 AM
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Any mid motor guys know if TLR2061 is really needed for this car? Not sure if its a "bling" thing or it needs the durability in that area.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth
They are indeed serrated. Picture must just not be updated.

Seth
ah, ok. I have googled and googles looking for an updated pic or even a regular users pic and could not find any. Meh, they are 5 bucks, I will just pickup some to try.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GettinLapped
Any mid motor guys know if TLR2061 is really needed for this car? Not sure if its a "bling" thing or it needs the durability in that area.
Durability and weight.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:23 PM
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Mostly weight.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by GettinLapped
Any mid motor guys know if TLR2061 is really needed for this car? Not sure if its a "bling" thing or it needs the durability in that area.
This item is typically for durability and weight as others have stated. If you are going to run the stock plastic one, just place a setscrew in the opposite hole of the camber block(the one you aren't placing the ball stud in) and you wont have any issues with the stock plastic piece.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by s.amadorJR
Funny I came on here to get info about the serrated wheel screws and it was on the first page I looked up. I'll give them a try before going with something aftermarket.
I had them on my 1.0 and it was one of only 2 upgrades I made to my 2.0. Well worth the piece of mind. Not one failure or lost wheel on my cars with the serrated
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JP.R
Hey guys, here is pretty much my standard setup that I use pretty much everywhere on my 22 with great success. The track I race on is 110X70 on the lower/med bite side. If I go to a bigger track with a little more bite I would go up in shock oil 1/2wt F&R and go to white springs in the back.

Front Suspension
Toe: 0
Camber: -1
Ride Height: 24mm
Caster: 5*
Kick Angle: 25*
Oil: 30wt
Piston: 2x1.6
Spring: Red
Spindle: Middle
Shock Limiter: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-Outside
Bumper Steer: 0 washers, use TLR234000 Low Mount Ball Stud
Ackerman: Low Mount Ball Stud
Camber Link: 2-B 2mm on caster and 1mm on bulkhead


Rear Suspension
Toe: 3.0 LRC
Anti-Squat: 2*
Ride Height: 23mm
Camber: -1
Rear Hub Spacing: Middle
Hex Width: 22T front hex TLR2941
Oil: 25wt
Piston: 2x1.6
Spring: Grey
Camber Link: 1-C 1mm on hub and 1mm on Bulkhead
Shock Location: 2-Inside
Wing/Wickerbill: TLR/Cut to bottom line
Battery Position: Shorty pack in forward position with the ESC mounted flat on the chassis in the back

8.5 Motor Geared 22/76
JP, do you run the 1mm spacer on the inside of the CVD's
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