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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 11-16-2013, 08:07 PM
  #3886  
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i built my 22 2.0 today, i have to say Losi has raised the bar on their quaility of the kits, nothing needed to be dremeled, reamed, filed etc. I noticed one thing as well some look over, area of higher maintaince like the transmission attaching screws, are long with plenty of threads, less likely to strip. This is my first losi product in a couple years, so far very satisfied with the build quality.
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:35 PM
  #3887  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
I don't use the spacer on my setup. The spacer is not designed to be used on the outside of the hub, although it can be. If you use +.75 or +1.5mm hexes and use the axle spacer, you car will be too wide and illegal (on top of not handling correctly).



That's the catch 22 (pun intended) with the wax coating for the springs. It protects the metal from tarnishing and has practically no effect on the spring rate (the fully painted springs do), but the paint swatch doesn't stick to it quite like we've love for it to do. Luckily, each spring has a different coil count (which we've posted) so you can keep track without the paint. I have just put little notched on the bottom of my springs (1-4 and 1-5) with a dremel cut off wheel. Keeps it simple and permanent.



If you tighten the wheel nut tight, it will never come off. You don't want to just snug it. Just like in 1/8th scale, really tighten it down. No thread lock required. A fewtimes, I've had guys at the track and tell me their wheel nut fell off, and I tell them to put it all back together and let me take a look. Then I check how tight the nuts are with my 7mm and put 1-2 MORE full turns into each nut as their jaws drop. The nuts and axles will not strip and unless you try to go super hulk, neither will the wheel.
lol, I can try to snug them a bit more. yeah, I am not hulking on them, but they are pretty tight. lol watch me snap the nut off in the axles, lol. I prefer to stay OEM, so I will give it another go
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:51 PM
  #3888  
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Get the serrated ones. The first day I drove the car with the stock wheel nut/screw setup, I lost a wheel. I picked up the serrated ones that week and have had no further issues.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:44 PM
  #3889  
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Originally Posted by klaymon
Get the serrated ones. The first day I drove the car with the stock wheel nut/screw setup, I lost a wheel. I picked up the serrated ones that week and have had no further issues.
+1 I did the same with my 22 1.0. Just built my 22 2.0 Wednesday night and didn't even use the original screws. Picked up a new set of the serrated ones with the new car.
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:23 AM
  #3890  
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I swaped my fron axles to the Jconcepts, and used the low profile serrated nut. Havent had a issue.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:52 AM
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Well, I took my newly built 22 2.0 for it's maiden voyage last night and had a blast. As I expected, the car is considerably better than me.

I did have one breakage though. One of the inner ballstuds (10mm) on a rear camber link broke. judging by wear it broke, it seems that it loosened by 2-3mm which reduced support and gave more leverage for the compression forces to break the bolt.

The good news is that it came out fairly easily.

My question is what to do when I replace the part? The manual does not show thread lock which may have prevented the breakage but also made it much harder to extract. Should I just tighten it down and keep an eye on it or put a very small amount of thread lock and let it dry before I assemble it.

I am leaning towards just replacing it.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:49 AM
  #3892  
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Just replace it and check it after each run to make sure it's still tight. I ran into that on my XXXT-CR rear hubs. They were really bad about ball studs backing out and breaking off. I've not run into it on this buggy yet, but I keep an eye on it.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:46 AM
  #3893  
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Originally Posted by rusty123
Well, I took my newly built 22 2.0 for it's maiden voyage last night and had a blast. As I expected, the car is considerably better than me.

I did have one breakage though. One of the inner ballstuds (10mm) on a rear camber link broke. judging by wear it broke, it seems that it loosened by 2-3mm which reduced support and gave more leverage for the compression forces to break the bolt.

The good news is that it came out fairly easily.

My question is what to do when I replace the part? The manual does not show thread lock which may have prevented the breakage but also made it much harder to extract. Should I just tighten it down and keep an eye on it or put a very small amount of thread lock and let it dry before I assemble it.

I am leaning towards just replacing it.
You don't need to use loctite, just tighten it down well and it won't come loose.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:02 AM
  #3894  
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Originally Posted by rusty123
Well, I took my newly built 22 2.0 for it's maiden voyage last night and had a blast. As I expected, the car is considerably better than me.

I did have one breakage though. One of the inner ballstuds (10mm) on a rear camber link broke. judging by wear it broke, it seems that it loosened by 2-3mm which reduced support and gave more leverage for the compression forces to break the bolt.

The good news is that it came out fairly easily.

My question is what to do when I replace the part? The manual does not show thread lock which may have prevented the breakage but also made it much harder to extract. Should I just tighten it down and keep an eye on it or put a very small amount of thread lock and let it dry before I assemble it.

I am leaning towards just replacing it.
Same thing happened to me and two other guys at the track not sure why the book dosent say use thread lock but either way its nkt coming out now.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:24 PM
  #3895  
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Serrated front nuts, losi, exotek or J Concepts all work great. With this design all the nuts are going to wear out and need to be replaced.
After racing Nitro for years you learn to use lock tight on anything metal to metal. Just gives me piece of mind. With the exception of one shock end I have not had any TLR car failures in the last two years.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:34 PM
  #3896  
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Originally Posted by Bobby Z
Does anyone know of a source for thin shrink tubing in multiple colours? The paint is wearing off my low frequency springs.
I know Drepus has already helped with this but I thought I would throw in Sayal Electronics (sayal.com), they are around Ontario and there is one in burlington. Its a great source for soldering supplies and equipment, too.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:51 PM
  #3897  
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Does anyone know if Losi XXX front rims are 12mm hex and will work on a 22?
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:21 PM
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they are not and will not
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:07 PM
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damn cause they are on inventory reduction or $0.18!
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:21 PM
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Just ordered my Rocket-RC 2.0 Mid-Motor Brass Anti-Squat Weight Block to try MM again later. Right now my RM car is so good that it's hard to switch LOL. I had several guys drive my car today and everyone of them said it was very good. Everyone was complaining about not having grip and I kept telling them that I was planted. They all thought I was nuts until they drove my car. #gotgrip?

Btw, Was running Bing's setup with AKA Handlebars with open cell foam (Clay compound). Running tires with no tire sauce. Just wire brush them after each run and run them that way. My car was amazing.

I'm going to try Frank's setup next just to compare vs Bing's and see if I like one more than the other. They are very close (same front end). 1D vs 1A camber and 2mm vs 1mm ball stud washers on Hubs. half weight in oil.
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