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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 10-27-2013, 06:58 PM
  #3166  
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Like many I ran my new 2.0 today and it ran very well overall. Made the A in mod buggy and while the car worked great I drove the worst race I ran all day today. Very happy with the new car.
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:05 PM
  #3167  
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what does removing and adding shims on rear bulkhead do for the buggy...?
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:32 PM
  #3168  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Everyone I talked to that swapped to the 2.0/2.0 converted is loving it and I am not referring to just the fast guys. Several of the guys barely out of novice are picking up 1-1.5 laps with the new geometry and the FR camber link positions. And most every agrees that the kit setup is dramatically not as good at Frank. I had a guy that change to the 2.0 geometry describe the issues he was having. I commented that he must be running the kits camber link locations. He told me yeah and that he was not really liking the 2.0 that much. So I pointed him to franks setup and talked to him today after he raced last night. He said the car was on rails and just awesome to drive. Just some feedback from the slower guys. Most guys are picking up time because the car is just much easier to drive, thus they are better able to hold a good line and make less mistakes.
I've been contemplating my 10 year old stepping up from novice to stock (17.5). I converted his buggy to 2.0 using my old 1.0 setup and he complained of no steering. I grabbed it and yes, it pushed on power terribly. He ran stock for the first time on the weekend and after the initial shock of crazy stock drivers trying to win the race into the first corner he came good finishing mid pack amongst some decent drivers. I asked how it was and his comment was... "Do not mess with perfection". Eh 10 year olds...I rebuilt it using Frank's setup.

I'm in two minds about mine now. I'm not having any problems but I have the exotek rack. Anyone running the exotek rack and Frank's setup for hard packed medium grip outdoor? Comments please. Might be the .6 seconds a lap I need in mod...
I know it won't be as I need track time but you never know....
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:25 PM
  #3169  
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Originally Posted by steelers82
anybody missing any hardware for the mid motor stuff in there kit or had the wrong sizes? mine was way off
I have built 2 kits in Mid Motor without issue, and I haven't seen anyone else post or comment on missing hardware. You need most of the rear motor hardware plus the mid motor hardware.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:29 AM
  #3170  
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I have built 2 kits too. No missing parts.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:30 AM
  #3171  
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Hi Frank,

Someone on another thread mentioned that he experienced smoke coming out of his 17.5T motor while doing the slipper test - holding down the rear tires and pumping the throttle to measure the tilt up of the front wheels.

Looking at the v2.0 manual it's recommending a 70/35 combination which I think is silly high for a 17.5T. v1.0 manual recommends a 76/30. I'm somewhat confused about this since the diff ratio did not change from the v1.0. Correct?

The individual in question is running a 70/32 combination.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:51 AM
  #3172  
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Originally Posted by Silverexpress
Hi Frank,

Someone on another thread mentioned that he experienced smoke coming out of his 17.5T motor while doing the slipper test - holding down the rear tires and pumping the throttle to measure the tilt up of the front wheels.

Looking at the v2.0 manual it's recommending a 70/35 combination which I think is silly high for a 17.5T. v1.0 manual recommends a 76/30. I'm somewhat confused about this since the diff ratio did not change from the v1.0. Correct?

The individual in question is running a 70/32 combination.
Hey mate generally stock should never lift the front wheels as it's a limited power class this is how you usually set your slipper for mod, and the gearing depends on how much motor timing one uses if you set your motor to minimum timing 70/35 shouldn't be a issue if you use max timing with 70/35 it's a quick way to kill a motor. And most brushless electronics have gotten a little more powerful and efficient over the last few years.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:19 AM
  #3173  
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Got to run this buggy for the first time at JCP in Indy this past weekend. Had BQ but had a rough main. Went from first to last on 2nd lap and wheeled it back up to first in 10 min main. Ended up 4th missing bump up into A. Not bad for first outing after 3 mo off with new buggy. Left happy knowing the buggy is good. I just need to get better. Lol. Frank Root setup is good!
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:25 AM
  #3174  
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yeah, another 22 driver told me that the frank root setup was twitchy, I laughed and told him to never buy a b4 if he thought that setup was twitchy. One thing I never thought the 2 was, is twitchy.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:36 AM
  #3175  
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Originally Posted by Sc Sandman
Hey mate generally stock should never lift the front wheels as it's a limited power class this is how you usually set your slipper for mod, and the gearing depends on how much motor timing one uses if you set your motor to minimum timing 70/35 shouldn't be a issue if you use max timing with 70/35 it's a quick way to kill a motor. And most brushless electronics have gotten a little more powerful and efficient over the last few years.
thanks! that was me who was asking about this in the ball diff setup thread.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:58 AM
  #3176  
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I started my 2.0 with Franks setup but on our clay track it lacked on the high speed steering some but was pretty spot on for most everything else. We have a pretty high bite indoor clay track. From Franks setup I moved the shorty pack forward instead of having 1 pad in front and went to .75 rear hexes. After those changes I went to 1D for the rear camber link and that made it even better middle out. Looking for a tad bit more high end steering and then for me the car will be perfect. Overall though Franks setup was a great place for me to start.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:09 AM
  #3177  
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Last weekend mark pavidas was racing at our local track...he was running the new cab forward body,that body gave this car a whe new look and it looked good.cant wait to pick one up
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:21 AM
  #3178  
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Anyone have a good pic on how they laying out your electronics in mid motor? I know some are putting the batt up to the motor.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:32 AM
  #3179  
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Originally Posted by buckeyeboy30
Anyone have a good pic on how they laying out your electronics in mid motor? I know some are putting the batt up to the motor.
I cut out the tranny brace below the battery hinge to move the battery back and threaded the center part of the hinge and put screws in for rigidity, so I could keep the speed controller on top of the battery brace. Trying to keep the weight as far back as possible without putting the boat anchor hanging off the back of the car.

Receiver will stay behind the servo.

Still in the process of building and I need to turn the speed controller 90 as I don't love the wire routing right now, but after I do that I will post some pics tonight.

Last edited by haagar; 10-28-2013 at 08:35 AM. Reason: A motor is not the same as a battery!
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:39 AM
  #3180  
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Originally Posted by Silverexpress
Hi Frank,

Someone on another thread mentioned that he experienced smoke coming out of his 17.5T motor while doing the slipper test - holding down the rear tires and pumping the throttle to measure the tilt up of the front wheels.

Looking at the v2.0 manual it's recommending a 70/35 combination which I think is silly high for a 17.5T. v1.0 manual recommends a 76/30. I'm somewhat confused about this since the diff ratio did not change from the v1.0. Correct?

The individual in question is running a 70/32 combination.
Gearing depends on the motor, motor timing and surface. One of the guys in the office races stock geared 37/70, so 35/70 would be conservative for him. It really depends on your motor/tuning/driving.

As for the slipper, if you keep revving the motor trying to get the tires off the ground in stock, you will heat up the motor pretty quickly. The stock motors generally don't have enough power to lift the front wheels. You almost need to know what the slipper sounds like when set right to tell for sure.
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