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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

Old 10-06-2013, 08:23 PM
  #2416  
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Will a shorty lipo fit in the 22 2.0 mid motor setup?
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by slasn_48
Will a shorty lipo fit in the 22 2.0 mid motor setup?
yes its tight fit
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:11 PM
  #2418  
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Many thanks to Ryan and Frank for helping me out this weekend! I picked up a 2.0 buggy and I cannot wait to get it all assembled!
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kwiksi
First thing I noticed that seems off are your tires. Why not run clay compound?
Everyone has been using PL M4 or Jc Green. I too found it odd and will be ordering some JC Gold Pressure Points and Gold Barcodes for the front.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by J@UNE
Wow a lot more than I expected! Thats great though! Is the chassis length different than the V1?
No Same chassis lenght jus diferent front geometry 1mm transmission shims for higer roll center and I thik a different body as well so minor changes.I am a associated guy and mugen person but I do know a bit about tlr as I hve had the previous 22 before our track switched to dirt.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:37 AM
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the transmission is not 1mm higher. just an fyi


One thing is for sure, lol. There are no used 2.0 kits to be found, that must mean the owners love the car

Last edited by Wildcat1971; 10-07-2013 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:07 AM
  #2422  
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Originally Posted by rracer
I have team drivers at my track, plus i'm just as good or better when it comes to working on a car. setups from others only work some of the time unless they are driving at the same track you are, it's the car. Others are having the same issue its not just me, i just talked to my friend he was at the track today with his and was not happy he said it just pushed all day. And as far as setup i'm pretty close to what everyone else is doing, i just don't have some of the stuff the team guys do such as prototype tires, steering mod, hubs, etc....
So please post your full set up?
this buggy is really good with kit set up? and can really shine with small adjustments to driverstyle/traction levels?
some team driver set ups are junk? for us mortals?
what rear toe block are you running? could cause a push?
without the full set up there is no way to guess why it would push?
i am super curious?
also include your electrics? my Tekin is 28 grams lighter than a orion?
so there are tons of little things that could cause a push
you should be raving about how stable and well this buggy rotates!!!
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:09 AM
  #2423  
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Originally Posted by kwiksi
First thing I noticed that seems off are your tires. Why not run clay compound?

Bob, R & L is topsoil, not clay.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:10 AM
  #2424  
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BTW, You should try MM. Pretty good.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:18 AM
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TLR Went crazy with wins and podiums this weekend at the ROAR Region 4 Regionals.

JR Mitch Mod Buggy win/tq
Jovan Cruz stock buggy win, and top 3 in stock sct
Chris Veisins 4wd open SCT tq and win, 3rd in mod buggy
Bobby Horan in 40+ mod buggy
Ruffy Rios 3rd in stock buggy, 2nd in 40+ mod buggy
Leon McIntosh 2nd in mod st
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRcworld101
No Same chassis lenght jus diferent front geometry 1mm transmission shims for higer roll center and I thik a different body as well so minor changes.I am a associated guy and mugen person but I do know a bit about tlr as I hve had the previous 22 before our track switched to dirt.
If you read a little farther down the front page of this thread you will see there are quite a few more changes. The 1mm tranny shim is not recommended for the 2.0, certainly not included.

I'm not even sure if this is a complete list, the bearings are improved i think for example.
Originally Posted by Frank Root
Since the chassis, shocks, diff, hinge pins, axles, body and wing all changed, not to mention half the plastics, it's going to be way cheaper to get a kit.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Does the Mid motor config fit shorties with the included battery tray system? Could just be my SMC shorty being fat but i found it was such a tight fit that im sure i was inducing some bowing into the chassis.. so i dropped in Saddle packs instead. I suppose i could trim the forward battery mount a bit but it was TIGHT... Any shorty mid motor guys here? Hows the fit?

Hope to be on astro turf in a few weeks time!
Shorties fit fine, you just need to use the rear motor battery tray. If, you can use a Dremel a bit and fit it with the mid motor battery mount.

Originally Posted by msandman
I noticed on Franks setup he uses no rear Inner ball stud washers, I believe kit setup is 3mm how does that affect the car? Also are they raising the tranny on the 2.0 or is axle washer give the same affect?
It adds rear side bite, and reduces forward bit a little. Make the car drive less square which is good for OCRC. No, we are not raising the tranny. No need on the 2.0. The axles dont have the same effect exactly, but similar when the shim is OUT.

Originally Posted by K_King
More rear rotation by making less roll in the rear with the lower inside stud.
On the 2.0, more/better tire contact during roll for more side bite.

Originally Posted by rracer
rear motor, 30wt front red spring 27.5 rear gray spring. kit pistons and kit locations as far as shocks goes. 2-B front 1.5mm 1-A rear. 24mm front 23mm rear as far as ride height high to med bite track, i think i'm going to just get my 22 back out.
Grey Springs are softer than Id run. Id always run equal ride height front and rear (which rakes the chassis down in the back a little). Sounds like tires to me. What tires and foams are you running?

Originally Posted by trixter91
Are the 22 2.0 springs the same as the 22 cause I wanted to get the front and rear spring kits. And what springs are the low frequency for.
Low Frequency springs provide more grip and more consistency jumping.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the lf spring kits are for the 22 buggy. They are just a higher quality spring than the 1.0 springs with slightly different spring rates.
And are not as progressive.

Originally Posted by Bobby Z
I have a few adjustments planned for next race night but would like to here some suggestions. Car needs more steering into the corner and more straight line traction out of corner. Car would rotate decently but would then continue to slide

Running indoor wet clay. Track is 70 x 60 and has smallish jumps and is very smooth

Running close to stock setup. 30 front, 27.5 rear, stock pistons, red front, yellow rear springs. Moved rear shocks to middle hole on arm. Also moved rear hubs to short wheelbase. 23-24 M&M ride height. Chassis level

I tried inner hole on arms and did not like it at all

Ion M4 front, 3/4 rear foam
Pressure point rear, green, PL closed cell

Shorty battery, 2 pads back, 1 in front

I'm going back to medium wheelbase and softer spring in rear. May even try. 25 wt oil in rear. I also tried 1-B link in rear bit liked 1-D better

Also considering removing some washers on inner ballstud
1. You should move the shock back to the inside hole on the arm, itll give more entry steering and more forward grip. This is one of the most powerful changes to the 2.0.
2. Run the same ride height front and rear.
3. Try your hubs with 1mm in the front. I prefer middle just about everywhere, but if you want to run shorter, Id only do 1mm forward from middle, not 2mm.
4. Move the inner ball stud washers from 3 to 1mm, and try that. If you like it, take the 1mm out also.
5. Id keep the same spring when going back to inside hole on the arm, and be ready to try whites as well.

Originally Posted by troyd
Does the 2.0 kit come with the new low frequency springs?
Yes

Originally Posted by vito
do they have a 70 stock gear with the new slipper pads?
No, the ID of the gear profile is smaller than the OD of the slipper pads.

Originally Posted by cjcoffroad
Many thanks to Ryan and Frank for helping me out this weekend! I picked up a 2.0 buggy and I cannot wait to get it all assembled!
Youre really going to enjoy it!

Originally Posted by TheRcworld101
No Same chassis lenght jus diferent front geometry 1mm transmission shims for higer roll center and I thik a different body as well so minor changes.I am a associated guy and mugen person but I do know a bit about tlr as I hve had the previous 22 before our track switched to dirt.
Chassis is the same length, new front end geometry and rear shock mounting location, no change to the diff/tranny height, updated body, new shock parts, hard battery mounting and a bunch more!
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:01 AM
  #2428  
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yeah, I needed a little more side bite and forward bite was fine. I ran the kit setup, but plan to try Franks setup this weekend, because it seems like it will give me more of what I want from the car. But I am very happy with how consistent the car was with the changes in traction over the race night.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:11 AM
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agreed,
my car has traction all day long. i watch and hear giys complaining that the "track is garbage right now", slick and dusty in the morning. my lap times are slower than race times but im still hooked up and having fun. by the mains my car is on rails. the other guys are taking long breaks to go to burgerking and teriaki waiting till the track gets good, while im straight running packs! everyone who has tried my car has only positive things to say
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:47 AM
  #2430  
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Originally Posted by manuelcjr1
It is on the slider. The ball studs that screw to the slider and go to the steering links. U can add a 1 mm washer from the 2.0 kit under the ball stud. I loved hire it made my 2.0 feel. Less sensitive in the center but still has full steering left to right.
Okay, now I got it... ;-)

Thank you...
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