snwchris

iTrader: (8)

Did you forget to put the bleeder screw back in...

I'm running the HB Alum Caps and have never had an issue with them leaking out.

wildfire86

Here's a picture of the shock cap.

anythinggas

iTrader: (21)

Please don't take this the wrong way, but did you install the correct seal/o-ring, or make sure the seal/o-ring did not get pinched

As for shock caps, I've been using the associated caps and stand offs, i use a durango fat shock orings at the base of the cap to get a seal, I've also ran the durango fat shocks on the front with the durango stand offs.

wildfire86

Thanks for the reply, Kevin. I'll probably just run the AE shock caps. That is the most familiar for me.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Picked up a D413 roller from a fellow racer. Looking to freshen things up a bit and see many, many parts on backorder until:

This product is expected to arrive on Saturday, April 30 2016.

It's the third week of February. More than two months out for basic parts? Is this a gross over estimation, or are parts that scarce for months at a time? Hasn't this chassis been out for a solid two years now? I know, I can bang around on Ebay and find a part here and there from random places on the net, but that doesn't seem right.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

Guess depends on what your looking for its hit and miss at both Amain and Superior Hobbies for parts.

Jason84

iTrader: (4)

At times parts can be hard to get. I usually try to keep 2-3 of each breakable part or parts that are known to break even if I have not broken one yet.

Usually the part you need isn't in stock but everything else is. Then you go back to get the parts that were in stock when you need them and they are gone. I suggest buying multiples of everything.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

I have a question regarding roll center adjustment. How do I lower the roll center on the d413 to get more traction? Wouldn't you normally add spacers under the ball stud (raise the ball stud). But the rear ball stud is mounted underneath the camber plate. So what do I do? Anyone mount it on top of the plate? I have the carbon fiber camber plate which has one extra hole but I'm not even sure what moving to the other holes does. I was going by one of tessmanns setup sheets which says to use 1mm spacer between stud and camber plate but that is raising the roll center since is mounted on the bottom of the camber plate and I want to lower it. I think. Lol

yzracer758

iTrader: (18)

The less washers you use the higher the link will be and thus the more traction you will have, at the expense of reducing steering. I also run a 1mm washer with the carbon camber plate, mounted in the middle hole on the first row.

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

The rear hub has 2 holes for the pin to go through . These adjust roll center also. The upper hole makes for a lower roll center I believe.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Thanks guys... If I adjust the rear end do I also make a change to the front end roll center? Or should that remain constant? And the outer hub hole you are referring to is the hole where the hinge pin goes thru right? So I either want to make the inner stud higher or make it lower at the outer hub area correct?

yzracer758

iTrader: (18)

Only if you make a radical change to one end, would I then change the other. The rear link is more important to get right then the front.

Gertsch

Here is a good pdf for Roll Center, Anti-Squat, Kick-up and more....

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/hotbod...413_Charts.pdf

cheers

Les Vegetables

If you want to raise the inner ball studs, put the shims of the desired thickness under the plate where it mounts to the diff housing. I know I'm a genius right? If you go with a shim that is more than 1mm, make sure to use screws that are longer by the same amount as the thickness of the shims (the stock screws are 10mm so if you go to a 2mm shim use 12mm screws). I didn't like how the inner ball cups interfered with the plate at full suspension compression if you run the inner hole on the plate so I raised my plate up by 2mm, and added a 2mm shim under the inner ball stud. This gives the ball cup clearance without having to grind away material from the plate or cup.

Also as Gertsch posted you can make roll center adjustments with the hinge pin mounts too.

As for making an adjustment to both the front and the rear of the car. It depends. All adjustments are to change the balance of the car. Sometimes an adjustment may fix one thing, but create another issue. If you have little idea what adjustments do, run the car, make A SINGLE change, then run it immediately again to feel the difference that one change made. I've been in the hobby for 25+ years, I know what changes do what. If my car is that far off, I can usually change several things at once, and get the car to be much better.

While changing which hole the hinge pin goes through on the hub will change roll center, it will also change the ride height, which if he resets (you should always check ride height and camber after any change) will change how much droop his car has, which will effect weight transfer. Also, what if his hinge pin is already in the upper hole?

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Yeah , it will do all those things , but it also lowers his roll center , which was his question. Its on him to know that his ride height and droop are where he wants it to be after the change. You don't "not change it" cause you will have to make other changes ...

He is using the tessman set up , most of which use the bottom hole on the hub. If he is already in the top hole so be it , but if he isn't , its how you do it .