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Old 10-25-2015, 09:57 PM
  #10036  
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Can you use associated ball cups and ball studs on the D413?
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:15 AM
  #10037  
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Originally Posted by Bracer11
Can you use associated ball cups and ball studs on the D413?
Yes but if you are having issues with them popping off like I did first check to see if you have any ballcups especially the rear inners hitting the ballstud mounting plate like I did. I spaced the plate up 2mm and then put some droop and stuff limiters on mine.
I also switched to tlr 22 2.0 ballcups as they fit better on the stock HB ballstuds and I've not had one pop since changing.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:38 AM
  #10038  
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Originally Posted by Bracer11
Can you use associated ball cups and ball studs on the D413?
I converted the front of my car over. AE Ballstuds and HD Cups
https://goo.gl/photos/249ccXgCEKEWj97x6

Takes a little play out of the front.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:40 AM
  #10039  
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I'm using TLR ballstuds and cups. Also using the TLR 22 2.0 steering linkage which takes out a lot more slop. Just note that you need the TLR ballstuds with this as they're smaller than the HB 4.8 mm ones.
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:16 PM
  #10040  
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I run on a tight indoor track and car was pushing like a dump truck . I currently have the most agresive steering plates on knuckles and running 10/50k/5 in diffs and avid pink rear springs
I layed down front shocks .all else is Ty's setup
Car is awesome outside but on tight track won't turn
Please help
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:30 PM
  #10041  
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Originally Posted by jrz93
I run on a tight indoor track and car was pushing like a dump truck . I currently have the most agresive steering plates on knuckles and running 10/50k/5 in diffs and avid pink rear springs
I layed down front shocks .all else is Ty's setup
Car is awesome outside but on tight track won't turn
Please help
wow I can out turn everyone on track in tight corners, but if I'm getting push like dump truck I change tires and whala. My track we run slicks ,but after few runs and track drys I push and switch to broken in dirt weds . Are you changing tires for track conditions?

Last edited by nitro2be; 10-26-2015 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 10-26-2015, 06:54 PM
  #10042  
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
wow I can out turn everyone on track in tight corners, but if I'm getting push like dump truck I change tires and whala. My track we run slicks ,but after few runs and track drys I push and switch to broken in dirt weds . Are you changing tires for track conditions?
Experienced racer n everywhere in northeast we been running nothing but slicks for 2 years. Extremely high traction
Wondering if going back to higher center fluid will help cause I already have #3 Ackerman on knuckles
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:05 PM
  #10043  
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Originally Posted by jrz93
I run on a tight indoor track and car was pushing like a dump truck . I currently have the most agresive steering plates on knuckles and running 10/50k/5 in diffs and avid pink rear springs
I layed down front shocks .all else is Ty's setup
Car is awesome outside but on tight track won't turn
Please help
Try 7/100/3 for the diffs. I'm not sure what the equivalent avid pink spring is to HB springs, but try yellow or gold HB spring (or equivalent on the rear). With the right tires, this buggy will turn with any of Ty's setups and you shouldn't have to go too far outside his setup sheets to get the car to work. I'll bet going from 50K to 100K in the center is going to make a big difference.
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Old 10-27-2015, 04:40 AM
  #10044  
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Plus on going to the 7/100/3... I run on Med to High bite and run 7/100/5 and car is super planted. I'm still running TYs original ready setup, other than springs. HB Red fronts with 40wt Losi oil and 2x1.6 pistons and for the Rear HB Gold with 30/32.5 wt Losi oil and 2x1.7 pistons.

It sounds like with the 10k front and 50k center might be part of issue. I ran 10/60/5 once and had some of the same issues with the push. When I went back to 7/100/5 turned on a dime.
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Old 10-27-2015, 06:51 AM
  #10045  
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Originally Posted by jrz93
I run on a tight indoor track and car was pushing like a dump truck . I currently have the most agresive steering plates on knuckles and running 10/50k/5 in diffs and avid pink rear springs
I layed down front shocks .all else is Ty's setup
Car is awesome outside but on tight track won't turn
Please help
I have had this problem at my track , which is small and mostly 180's. I took the front bar off , and went with the smallest rear bar . Give it a shot
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:48 AM
  #10046  
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Where are most the guys Mounting their esc, front or rear of the buggy. I've been running mine in the front and my car feels great. I'm going switch to the +4 schelle carbon chassis this week and was thinking about mounting it in the rear of the car. What are your thoughts. Has anyone treated both ways wuthering the same setup?
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:50 AM
  #10047  
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla
Where are most the guys Mounting their esc, front or rear of the buggy. I've been running mine in the front and my car feels great. I'm going switch to the +4 schelle carbon chassis this week and was thinking about mounting it in the rear of the car. What are your thoughts. Has anyone treated both ways wuthering the same setup?
I run my ESC up front with the +4 chassis. buggy feels great. plenty of steering all day with the chassis.
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:56 AM
  #10048  
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Default From Clay to Astro

My D413 was hooked up when our local track had low-medium grip indoor clay. We now switched over to astro and I am struggling with my setup. I am currently using Ty Tessmann 2015 IFMAR Astro setup:

http://www.tytessman.com/setups/pdf/...orlds-d413.pdf

Love to hear your thoughts about the carbon fiber chassis on high grip astro. With the CF chassis it just feels like it lacks control around the track. It feels very twitchy / sensitive. Overall it feels inconsistent especially around corners where it feels like grip is not linear. Both my RB6 and SC6 have aluminum chassis and they are very consistent and easy to drive -- but I love my D413 and would love to get some pointers.

Is stock CF chassis NOT the ideal choice for me, and would the AVID aluminum chassis be better for my medium sized high grip astro track? Is the price justified?
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:27 AM
  #10049  
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Originally Posted by wittyname
I have had this problem at my track , which is small and mostly 180's. I took the front bar off , and went with the smallest rear bar . Give it a shot
Thanks for help. I'm going to try 7/100/3 as your right when I went down in center to smooth out twitchy steering now back inside I had issue. Glad someone else experienced issue too on tight track
Also fyi avid rears stiffer than hb spring n help on power
Thanks
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Old 10-28-2015, 03:28 AM
  #10050  
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
My D413 was hooked up when our local track had low-medium grip indoor clay. We now switched over to astro and I am struggling with my setup. I am currently using Ty Tessmann 2015 IFMAR Astro setup:

http://www.tytessman.com/setups/pdf/...orlds-d413.pdf

Love to hear your thoughts about the carbon fiber chassis on high grip astro. With the CF chassis it just feels like it lacks control around the track. It feels very twitchy / sensitive. Overall it feels inconsistent especially around corners where it feels like grip is not linear. Both my RB6 and SC6 have aluminum chassis and they are very consistent and easy to drive -- but I love my D413 and would love to get some pointers.

Is stock CF chassis NOT the ideal choice for me, and would the AVID aluminum chassis be better for my medium sized high grip astro track? Is the price justified?
I also ran my D413 with the stock carbon chassis on astroturf, and the traction was very inconsistent and the car was very difficult to drive. With the amount of traction available, the carbon chassis will flex a lot, therefore explaining the car's handling characteristics. I am convinced that the AVID aluminium chassis will transform the car on astroturf. I have bought one, but I have not tried it yet. I think you should only be running an aluminium chassis in a 4wd buggy in high grip situations.
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