symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

I ran mine for the first time this weekend and found the rear end to be a bit squirmy on exit running T's Hotrod setup. I removed the forward arm sweep and dropped from 60k to 30k and the car was unreal.

Jason Snyder

iTrader: (4)

Pretty accurate assessment in my opinion. I have all kyosho cars Rb6 /SC6 / RT6 but choose to run the D413.

ZX6 is really nice but there is no comparison in durablity.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

what do u think made the biggest difference dropping the center diff fluid? im at 100 now. what are ur front and rear at

billdogg

iTrader: (15)

Question about building the shocks. I'm used to building Losi shocks, and after I bleed the Losi shocks, I'll pump them and leave them at full length, and they pull back into the body. From how I learned, it was supposed to do this. When I built my HB shocks, they don't do this. They will stay fully extended. Am I doing something wrong, or worrying about nothing?

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I built mine with the Reedy set-up, except for diff fluids. I did go 100k in the center, but wondering why the whole time. What is the purpose of a center diff if we are just going to basically lock it up with molasses? I was able to run my car this weekend and spent most of my time on shock set-up, The car was pretty decent, but I did think the rear end was a bit loose also..
Are you building with bladders or emulsion?

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Another little tip I rec'd from a Team driver is to Ca glue the alumi servo saver sleeve (if using) to the front of the part it mates to. You dont have to glue the inner sleeve so much as the front hex parts on the splined side. It will eventually wear a little play in those parts and cause constant steering trim adjustments..Pictured and circled are the two pieces that I am speaking of.. BE careful that you don't get Ca buildup behind the hex part, as I did the first time. It will cause a lot of hate and discontent and also cost you the price of a new servo saver set. I glued the 2 pieces after they are assembled (the 2nd time)...

billdogg

iTrader: (15)

Emulsion.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Sounds like you just have a little (more) air in them. Usually from my experience when building emulsion the moment you build them is the only time they have a minimal amount of air in the shock. As time and track use goes by they naturally keep building more and the retraction seems to disappear. I have been switching most of my cars to bladders for the simple reason that they are easier to build consistently, and they have little to no air wanted or needed which makes them last longer before needed rebuilds, just my 2¢...

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Going to a lighter center diff allowed for more off power rotation and more stability on acceleration. To combat the excess low speed steering i removed the .5deg forward arms sweep. The car lacked nothing, it was dare I say perfect. Keep in mind our track conditions may be vary different. I run on a high/medium bite 1/8 red clay track and use mini pins not bar type tires. Its actually most likely considered medium bite for 1/10.

And for anyone speculating if the car is truly a tank, it sure is. Its the damn toughest wheeler ever made, and id bet money on that, and it drive freaking awesome. As much as I hate to say and admit, it kicks my 22-4s ass.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

I don't get it either, I could only see 100k working on asphalt type track conditions or carpet.... With 30k my tire wear was symmetrical and still launched out of the corners like a demon...

CarFanatic

iTrader: (53)

Anyone else has slight play in the a arms where they are attached at the diffs? I have slight foreward to rear movement. Using washers kit said to. Like it could use another washer?

phillypete

For me 1/10th scale racing is what I do when I can't get out to an 1/8th scale track. Its not something I take super serious. I don't want to be spending a lot of time messing with my 1/10th scale cars. Typically I leave them at the track and only work on them right before a race. I even run gear diffs in both my RB6 and RT6 even though I'm told ball diffs are better for the track just because it is less maint.

I also like that the D413 is more of a direct analog to 1/8th scale racing.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

You will probably like the D413 then. It does drive like a hyper little escale. And super durable.

uncle everett

iTrader: (15)

Simple solution. Use exact reedy setup and check front outdrive to see if rubbing on caster block....done.

nv529

iTrader: (53)

Here's what I ran over the weekend at dirt burners which is semi-dry indoor clay/somewhat slick condition.