Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

15K in the front, and 12 deg kickup is probably why it doesn't have enough off power turn in. I bet it has a TON of on power steering tho.

Go lighter in the front diff oil and maybe a little less kickup.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

YUP!!

buyselltradeevy

iTrader: (2)

Would adjusting the arm sweep help?

billdogg

iTrader: (15)

I haven't been keeping up with this thread lately. I just got my D413 in the mail. What's a good setup for indoor, medium track, medium/high grip hard pack dirt.

PetRock

Is Associated black grease the wrong stuff to put on diff outdrive shafts?

My front and rear diffs had gotten really stiff: they were almost posi even with 7000/5000 oils. I hadn't noticed when when we were goofing off outdoors, but as soon as I moved back to carpet the buggy pushed through every slow tight corner.

When I opened things up the outdrive that went through the plastic diff housing spun freely... but the one that went through the metal ring gear was almost locked up. It took penetrating oil, a screwdriver slotted into where the dogbone goes, and wrap of paper towel on the ring gear so I didn't cut myself... just to let me wiggle it long enough to get it free. I had put the same amount of AE black grease on both shafts when building: should I have used something else?

A perfectly acceptable answer is "pay attention, and do more frequent maintenance" . But before I seal them back up I thought I'd ask if I should lube them with something else. Thanks!

AMorgan

iTrader: (5)

Quick question for the guys running AE caps, are you using the AE sealing o-ring for the top of the shock as well? Everything I see only mentions the caps and standoffs and I want to make sure I have everything I need to reassemble the shocks tomorrow for a big race Saturday. Thanks!

uncle everett

iTrader: (15)

Slight leaking without the o'ring, is there a seal you can put in the cap? So slight that I don't even worry about it, although I'm into my shock non stop for testing.

buyselltradeevy

iTrader: (2)

I had that same "locked diff" problem before our heats last Saturday. With A FULL rear diff(10k) after a 5 minute run the rear end was locked. If you let the buggy sit for 15 minutes or so the diff would free up. I drained it, put 7k just up to the cross shafts and reassembled. It's been fine ever since. Did I overfill? That is probably the obvious answer, but doesn't the silicone diff fluid get thinner as it gets hotter?

cokemaster

iTrader: (18)

Use the bladders that came with the kit (bladder style or emulsion style).

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

In getting thinner, it also expands and if pressure has increased in the diff, you might get hydro-locking because of the oil expansion.

ColourGhost

When do your little darling (D413) bottom out, - i mean from which hight ? I have put 850 oil front and 600 rear with 4x1.4mm pistons and it still feels a little soft, and bottoming out when i drop it from above 30cm. And yes the shocks are put together correct (emulsion style). I run indoor carpet, and i was inspired by a team X-ray driver from my track running the same oil front and rear, but with costum 3x1.7mm pistons. maybe i should try with the stock 4x1.3mm instead, what are your thoughts ? Enjoy RC people

uncle everett

iTrader: (15)

That ring would probably work, they'd have to be emulsion

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

TYs Reedy setup is a great starting point for what you described. There's 3 of us running that setup at our track which is about the same description.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Try 2 stage pistons, they are 3x1.4 and eliminate the bottoming out.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

I hate to say it but the Xray is a totally different animal, so what he's running for oils might not work in your car or set-up.

I would say try one on the Petitrc setups, there's a couple for astro turf high bite and there's a couple of TYs on Clay w/sugar very high bite. I really think you should look into the 2x1.6 pistons. Maybe start 37.5F 32.5R, maybe even step up to 40F & 35-37R