Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#2911
yes, easiest way to get the nose piece in is to remove the shock tower. only four screws. only a minute or two with a driver.
jason snyder posted a close up pic of the hinge pin holders earlier in the thread. look around the time the buggy was first released, whatever date that was.
jason snyder posted a close up pic of the hinge pin holders earlier in the thread. look around the time the buggy was first released, whatever date that was.
#2913
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
I am not sure what the issue is with asking if there is going to be larger spur gears available. Every company, including hot bodies, has different sized spur gears. Every 1/10 and 1/8 cars I have seen have an option to change the spur gear size.
Granted the kit is very new and at this point in time a different size spur gear is not available.
If a spur gear will not be available, then its a matter of going down in motor size to help with heat issues.
So it's either an option later to buy a $10 spur gear or to buy a $150 motor now.
Granted the kit is very new and at this point in time a different size spur gear is not available.
If a spur gear will not be available, then its a matter of going down in motor size to help with heat issues.
So it's either an option later to buy a $10 spur gear or to buy a $150 motor now.
#2914
Your in too deep! Give the motor to me! Jk, you can take the bite out of the motor by adjusting punch, EPA and gearing. Besides, it's a vst, it's like a 6.5 lrp or reedy.
#2915
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
yeah I understand I can take punch and timing out, and almost sure I will HAVE TO with that monster 5.5T. but for the heat issue I am reading about, wouldn't going to a 5.5T with less punch & timing be better/cooler then trying to run a 6.5T with more punch & timing. I have a vst2 6.5 and a vst 7.5 That I could goto aswell if Im understanding this backwards
#2917
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
yeah I understand I can take punch and timing out, and almost sure I will HAVE TO with that monster 5.5T. but for the heat issue I am reading about, wouldn't going to a 5.5T with less punch & timing be better/cooler then trying to run a 6.5T with more punch & timing. I have a vst2 6.5 and a vst 7.5 That I could goto aswell if Im understanding this backwards
A friend of mine races a TLR 22-4, so I'm not sure how comparable this scenario is. I watched him TQ 4 wheel buggy with 97% consistency out of 20 entries on a 7,500 square foot out door dirt track in middle Tennessee that has a 130 foot straight, a 30 foot long triple that has about 10 feet of approaching distance (he cleared every time), a massive jump on the back straight (also cleared), and several technical areas. It was a bright sunny day, around 85 degrees fahrenheit, and the highest temp on his motor was 165 fahrenheit (no fan on motor). Like I said, not sure how helpful this is because the design of the TLR 22-4 is not the same as the D413. Take it for what it's worth.
#2918
Tech Initiate
yeah I understand I can take punch and timing out, and almost sure I will HAVE TO with that monster 5.5T. but for the heat issue I am reading about, wouldn't going to a 5.5T with less punch & timing be better/cooler then trying to run a 6.5T with more punch & timing. I have a vst2 6.5 and a vst 7.5 That I could goto aswell if Im understanding this backwards
#2919
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I don't have my car yet. Could anyone measure the front and rear 12mm wheel hex pins with a set of metric calipers (a.k.a. micrometer) and let me know what the thickness is of the retainer pins are ?
Thanks in advance.
Also, (correct me if I'm wrong) I think Ty Tessman may have used the 12mm shock caps off of these Pro-Line short course shocks. Too bad we can't just buy the caps...
http://prolineracing.com/performance...e-shocks-rear/
Thanks in advance.
Also, (correct me if I'm wrong) I think Ty Tessman may have used the 12mm shock caps off of these Pro-Line short course shocks. Too bad we can't just buy the caps...
http://prolineracing.com/performance...e-shocks-rear/
#2921
Hi all- Just got the buggy put together today and ran a few test laps on our indoor track. Silly question but how do I install the front plastic body piece? Do I need to remove the front shock tower to slide it in?
I used the Associated X-Rings ASC91493 for the shock seals. The shocks are very plush and smooth. I used 35F/30R
Also, I am not sure I installed the rear hinge pin holders correctly. I tried to make them flow with the underside of the chassis angle so I assume they are correct but does anyone have a closeup pic? The manual was not very clear for the front or rear.
I left the front sway bar off for now and used the copper on the rear but I think I need to install a front to smooth out the front steering. It is incredibly twitchy.
I used the Associated X-Rings ASC91493 for the shock seals. The shocks are very plush and smooth. I used 35F/30R
Also, I am not sure I installed the rear hinge pin holders correctly. I tried to make them flow with the underside of the chassis angle so I assume they are correct but does anyone have a closeup pic? The manual was not very clear for the front or rear.
I left the front sway bar off for now and used the copper on the rear but I think I need to install a front to smooth out the front steering. It is incredibly twitchy.
#2922
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Thanks Mopar and RCFreak for the tips. I removed the rear sway bar and installed the front plastic body piece. Its now complete.
Since I am running my ESC is the rear I am running the shorty forward so that may be contributing to the twitchy steering as well. Any thoughts on battery placement. I don't think the setup sheets tell the battery position do they?
A few other setup things in case others are curious.. I am running a 23T pinion, 15K, 100k, 3K and the LRP 6.5 motor. I am running 11 degrees kickup in the front and antisquat in the rear at 1 degree.
Since I am running my ESC is the rear I am running the shorty forward so that may be contributing to the twitchy steering as well. Any thoughts on battery placement. I don't think the setup sheets tell the battery position do they?
A few other setup things in case others are curious.. I am running a 23T pinion, 15K, 100k, 3K and the LRP 6.5 motor. I am running 11 degrees kickup in the front and antisquat in the rear at 1 degree.
#2923
Thanks Mopar and RCFreak for the tips. I removed the rear sway bar and installed the front plastic body piece. Its now complete.
Since I am running my ESC is the rear I am running the shorty forward so that may be contributing to the twitchy steering as well. Any thoughts on battery placement. I don't think the setup sheets tell the battery position do they?
A few other setup things in case others are curious.. I am running a 23T pinion, 15K, 100k, 3K and the LRP 6.5 motor. I am running 11 degrees kickup in the front and antisquat in the rear at 1 degree.
Since I am running my ESC is the rear I am running the shorty forward so that may be contributing to the twitchy steering as well. Any thoughts on battery placement. I don't think the setup sheets tell the battery position do they?
A few other setup things in case others are curious.. I am running a 23T pinion, 15K, 100k, 3K and the LRP 6.5 motor. I am running 11 degrees kickup in the front and antisquat in the rear at 1 degree.
#2924
#2925
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
so I am looking for alittle help as I just got the D413 with the Orion 10.1 Pro and Orion Vst2 5.5T. did I make a mistake going with a 5.5T in this car? I have no issues with it in my Xray Xb4 but that doesnt have a center diff. also a good Starting pinon if someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks and cant wait to take this baby outdoors