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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

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Old 01-04-2019, 07:35 PM
  #11821  
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From what I've seen on a HB FB Group: the D413 front shocks are the same length as the D418 rears (even though part numbers are different)? So, if I swapped in the D418 f+r carbon shock towers... put my D413 front shocks on the back of the car... then bought D418 front shocks... I'd get the shorter-travel/droop setup of the D418?
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:41 AM
  #11822  
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Originally Posted by PetRock View Post
From what I've seen on a HB FB Group: the D413 front shocks are the same length as the D418 rears (even though part numbers are different)? So, if I swapped in the D418 f+r carbon shock towers... put my D413 front shocks on the back of the car... then bought D418 front shocks... I'd get the shorter-travel/droop setup of the D418?
​​​​​The best way to do it would be to use the D418 shock towers and shock shafts. That would give you the new suspension geometry.
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:46 AM
  #11823  
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Does any company make aftermarket front topdecks (since HBS112760 has f+r, and price has gone up)? FactoryRC has the steering arms / battery-strap / center-diff-cap, and Xfactory has the shock towers, so I was hoping someone else sold the front brace by itself. Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:49 PM
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Hey howís it going, so Iíve ran a new d413 about 6 7 days total. Car was built new not worn. Iíve had problems with stripping spur gears. I read a lot of this post and saw a lot of people complaining about stripping spurs. Someone said something about using a ae gear instead but didnít see the parts listed.

I stripped at least 4-5 spurs on this car with a 48p pinion. Tlr 48p pinion and dynamite 48p pinions. 20t in both gears and 21t piŮon. Anyway Iím running 100k in center differential for a high traction clay track, I stripped a bunch of spurs quickly. Meshed then good and realized it was always from braking. I turned my brakes down weak and never stripped anything, today I turned my brakes up spur was stripped so quick. So for those of you running 100k plus on high traction track, what is the maximum brake you go up to.
Iím using
hobbywing xr10 pro
with 6.5 motor
20t 21t 48p pinion
now Iím using exotek 72t spur center diff.
100k center diff
high traction pure clay track

spur only strips when brakes are turned up higher. I have to run brakes weak to my liking, so what are your guys brake set to? WhAts the most brake percentage you go to? Is there any metal gear options for this car available that anyone has tried. Or is there any other spurs that hold up better from another brand from ae tekno or another brand . Thanks in advance. Appreciate it

also I donít know much about 1/10 esc programming.im more of a nitro guy and not the greatest with esc tuning. Maybe someone with a hobbywing xr10 pro can chime in maybe some of my settings are causing this.
My brake force is set for 37.5 and remote is at 84 percent it was maybe around high 60 to high 70 on remote when I turned it to 84 it stripped spur. Maybe there something set wrong on my esc. Still learning! But I think I need to mess around more with all the brake controls. Watching videos on this now I think my rates may be to agressive, going to mess with this more on Thursday probably at the track to dial it in but any help for high bite clay would be helpful. But Iím still researching


Edit
I noticed the d418 spur is a different part number would this gear work fine, whatís the difference. Iím researching this right now, different material?

Last edited by jersey; 01-23-2019 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:48 AM
  #11825  
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Hey Jersey,

I dont have my D413 anymore but drove one for about a year and a half. I never had a problem stripping the spur gear but it was tough to set the mesh sometimes. This is because the gear is both not perfectly round and if the spur is large enough and with enough debris, can contact that chassis under the right conditions. Adding to the equation is having your motor clocked inboard enough so that the motor tabs clear the body. Lastly, I did upgrade the screws in the motor mount with cap head screws to make them easier to tighten.

For ESC break tuning: On my D413, it could do a stoppy under full brakes sometimes with enough grip. I usually run about 15 points of drag brake and use full break strength in the ESC. If available, I usually set the drive or break frequency pretty high as well to adjust the "pedal feel" of the gas or breaks. You should not have to tune your brake strength to avoid stripping the spur in my opinion. I would stay away from metal gears but if I had to guess, I would think the 418 spur would work in the 413 just fine. Exotek also makes an easy change spur gear you can look into if you want.

Hope it helps

Noah
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:42 PM
  #11826  
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Wow this car can take a beating, I finally got to go to my local track which was a little intimidating it's rather large and kept nice. Man I couldnt make a whole lap with out stuffing it I to something. I've been into scale trail trucks lately so quite the shock, anyway I caught a groove and was able to fly the car over huge gaps and jumps pitching the car which was awesome
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Old 03-06-2019, 08:18 AM
  #11827  
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Anyone still racing this buggy.
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Old 03-07-2019, 05:57 AM
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YES!
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Old 03-07-2019, 06:15 AM
  #11829  
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Yup
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:46 PM
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I don't know about racing, I have been crashing this thing though... bad. Does anybody know who Carrie's front shock shafts I snapped one in half
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Old 03-08-2019, 02:13 AM
  #11831  
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Originally Posted by racerx44 View Post
Hey Jersey,

I dont have my D413 anymore but drove one for about a year and a half. I never had a problem stripping the spur gear but it was tough to set the mesh sometimes. This is because the gear is both not perfectly round and if the spur is large enough and with enough debris, can contact that chassis under the right conditions. Adding to the equation is having your motor clocked inboard enough so that the motor tabs clear the body. Lastly, I did upgrade the screws in the motor mount with cap head screws to make them easier to tighten.

For ESC break tuning: On my D413, it could do a stoppy under full brakes sometimes with enough grip. I usually run about 15 points of drag brake and use full break strength in the ESC. If available, I usually set the drive or break frequency pretty high as well to adjust the "pedal feel" of the gas or breaks. You should not have to tune your brake strength to avoid stripping the spur in my opinion. I would stay away from metal gears but if I had to guess, I would think the 418 spur would work in the 413 just fine. Exotek also makes an easy change spur gear you can look into if you want.

Hope it helps

Noah
thanks for reponse. Yea I already got the exotek quick change gears diff. Yea I changed my top screws to cap head screws already to just to be able to tighten them down easier and not strip them. I always try to change screws to cap head screws when I can. As far a esc I forget what setting it was but when I changed that it made all the difference. Havenít stripped anymore spurs since I commented and been at track bunch of times. But I think the brake was just way to agressive for the high traction surface.
But thanks for your help.
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:00 AM
  #11832  
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Originally Posted by PetRock View Post
Does any company make aftermarket front topdecks (since HBS112760 has f+r, and price has gone up)? FactoryRC has the steering arms / battery-strap / center-diff-cap, and Xfactory has the shock towers, so I was hoping someone else sold the front brace by itself. Thanks!

Are you talking carbon front brace or bulkhead brace?
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:36 AM
  #11833  
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I picked up one of these buggies secondhand for my son (hes 5) as they are really popular at my club. I've noticed the bearings seizing really quickly in the hubs - is this normal? I run Kyosho and have done 2 years without needing to replace a single bearing in those, but this car has been through 2 sets in about 6 months. We run outdoors on clay and the track gets watered.

I just used some Yeah racing teflon coated bearings which I already had for our fun backyard Tamiyas and they haven't failed in about 3 years of use in other cars and they get wet - even the steel shielded bearings haven't failed in some cars.

Is this a problem with these cars, or have I just been lucky with my Kyosho and Tamiyas, or are the Yeah Racing bearings really poor quality?
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:51 AM
  #11834  
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Bearings are very decent. Something else going on there.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:17 AM
  #11835  
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I had a problem killing front hub bearings, turns out I was missing the plastic spacer that goes in between the bearings. Haven't had a problem since I installed the spacer.
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