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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Old 03-03-2017, 11:17 AM
  #11101  
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Originally Posted by Tas4
Got to try the 413 out last night love the way it turns but not having luck with the jumps wants to jump nose heavy have the shorty on the right side along with transponder have speed control on left front receiver in back behind motor didn't get through 3 packs of practice and landed nose heavy on right front and broke steering arm and caster block at the same time any ideas this may just be too much for this old guy.



Check your right height make sure it's not to high because with the stock droop it can shoot the buggy up to much and kick up the Rear end and do what your saying . Stiffer springs , less droop , thicker shock oil helps .

Note the jumps are welded metal where I race at so the face of the jumps are higher .
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:29 AM
  #11102  
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My D413 has a bunch of slop at the rear hubs. Has anyone used some time of shim to remove some of the slop? I think the rear outer hinge pins are 2.5mm. I don't have my car in front of me to measure them. Looking at https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...zc-s25/p585230 to help reduce some of the slop if 2.5mm is the correct measurement.
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:00 AM
  #11103  
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Originally Posted by invrtd
My D413 has a bunch of slop at the rear hubs. Has anyone used some time of shim to remove some of the slop? I think the rear outer hinge pins are 2.5mm. I don't have my car in front of me to measure them. Looking at https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...zc-s25/p585230 to help reduce some of the slop if 2.5mm is the correct measurement.



You want slop in the suspension it's good on HB . Now the steering at least on the 1/10 not much of it .
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:12 AM
  #11104  
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Waiting on parts gonna change some stuff around on chassis gonna move speed control to rear left behind motor and put receiver in front of motor on left side also noticed the rear hubs were mounted on wrong sides of the car going to change that going to re do the shocks and give it another try.
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:29 PM
  #11105  
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I know a little slop is ok but I wouldn't mind getting rid of a little in the rear. My rear hubs are getting really sloppy.
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:41 PM
  #11106  
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Originally Posted by invrtd
I know a little slop is ok but I wouldn't mind getting rid of a little in the rear. My rear hubs are getting really sloppy.


I get that Exotek makes alum rear hubs I may get them found out I had some bad bearings in them wondering why i was running quite warm .
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Old 03-07-2017, 02:21 PM
  #11107  
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Originally Posted by invrtd
I know a little slop is ok but I wouldn't mind getting rid of a little in the rear. My rear hubs are getting really sloppy.
i USE A 1/2 MM SHIM BEHIND REAR HUB TO REMOVE SLOP. I EVEN USE 1/2 MM SHIM IN FRONT HUB TOO.
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:20 PM
  #11108  
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I tell you what this buggy is about the toughest 4wd buggy there is i landed not so good at times hit a pipe that was sticking out a little dint see hard hit nothing broke .

Other ones 22.4 2.0 and the new AE 4wd buggy seen brake something in the race mean while i just keep on running.


Now the stock setup yea at least with the stock springs and 3 hole/1.3 pistons it was way to aggressive on higher grip clay for me so i did a decent amount of tuning stiffer springs b5m Purple F and Yellow Rear springs same pistons with 37/35 shock oil made a difference especially jumping . Most noticeable is adding 1mm shim on on the ball stud up Front on the carrier blocks smoothen the steering out a lot .

Oh i did reduce the droop F/R from stock on the shock shafts its better no excessive roll .

And used a longer camber link in the Rear all around which im not complete on it so im going to at least use the stock hole on the Rear hubs to get back more rotation and some more steering.

But with the bad bearings in the Rear hubs Avid ones dint realize about im interested to see now how it is this weekend .

Last edited by tc5 man; 03-07-2017 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 03-09-2017, 07:54 AM
  #11109  
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I ran a version of the Ronnefalk carpet setup I have discussed with a few changes:

- ESC Left side front, battery right side rear shorty
- Exotek Chassis
- PT Racing oils ( I need to confirm weights again)
- VRP 3 x 1.3 pistons all around

Ran this in our open buggy class with a 13.5 Maclan motor with the ultra torque rotor option, blinky setup, and she was on fire. Highly impressed. Vehicle no longer wanted to push in turns. Instead rotated as I would expect and the utilization of 1million weight center diff fluid gave the vehicle a more direct feel just like I wanted.

The track layout had changed so that the long straight was now in front of the drivers stand with the turn coming off of it not having much room to do a sweeper. You basically needed a vehicle that would turn quickly there, no pushing.

Car was a dream. Just simply put awesome. If I wasn't pushing for just a 13.5 setup I could easily have run an 8.5 (10.5 is a common setup here) and felt comfortable with the power increase.
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Old 03-10-2017, 01:15 PM
  #11110  
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are nylon diff gears an option on the vehicle or in the works?
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:29 AM
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So, I'm getting back into the hobby and picked up a D413. Haven't run it yet, as I'd like to replace the electronics and upgrade a couple things. The buggy came with an Avid Aluminium chassis, Exotek steering rack, and a couple little upgrades. What it doesn't have is the aluminum shock caps (I will be getting those ASAP). Anything else that I should do? I will be replacing the fluids (diff 15F/100C/10R good starting point?) and shocks (35F/30R good starting point?)

I'm trying to figure out the wiring as this is my first 4WD buggy. How do you keep the servo/other wiring away from the drive shafts when going from one side of the buggy to the other? Checked out some pics on another site, but curious if you can help me out here.

thanks!
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:57 AM
  #11112  
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Originally Posted by 90sRacer
So, I'm getting back into the hobby and picked up a D413. Haven't run it yet, as I'd like to replace the electronics and upgrade a couple things. The buggy came with an Avid Aluminium chassis, Exotek steering rack, and a couple little upgrades. What it doesn't have is the aluminum shock caps (I will be getting those ASAP). Anything else that I should do? I will be replacing the fluids (diff 15F/100C/10R good starting point?) and shocks (35F/30R good starting point?)

I'm trying to figure out the wiring as this is my first 4WD buggy. How do you keep the servo/other wiring away from the drive shafts when going from one side of the buggy to the other? Checked out some pics on another site, but curious if you can help me out here.

thanks!
I used some wire clips to route the servo/esc wires where I wanted them to go.

Cain and stanleyw808 like this.
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:59 AM
  #11113  
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wire clips are nice

Not sure on the Proline body, but at least on the Jconcepts one you want the motor wires to run towards the side so they don't hit the body.

Just sent an email to exotek about a split diff mount and saw this afterwards negating my question lol:

http://www.exotekracing.com/d413-4-p...tor-plate-set/




Last edited by Cain; 03-11-2017 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 03-11-2017, 11:23 AM
  #11114  
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Default Pushing in tight corners

Hey guys, anyone have pushing issues in tight 180 tracks? Running on med bite clay with 10k/50k/5k diffs, front to rear, and the car will not get aggressively into the turns under power at all. Recommendations?
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Old 03-11-2017, 08:34 PM
  #11115  
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what is your setup exactly?

there is a variety of changes you can do, some good info here:

http://www.randypikerc.com/tip-of-th...ur-gear-diffs/

Last edited by Cain; 03-15-2017 at 11:47 AM.
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