Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
I also counter sinked the top brace that connects to the front diff case.
I also thought it was the Savox servo i was running. I put in a Futaba and was having the same issue.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
WOW on the bearings, cause I just went thru a rebuild last week and mine still feel smooth. No gritty feel to them and thats even after running outdoors this past summer on a 1/8 track that was dusty and loose at times.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Hi.
Does anyone know why my D413 looses it´s ability to drive in a straight line, and i have to adjust my left/right steering every 3 minutes ? I found that the 3x18 screws in front holding the arm mount can easily bent, and that way make the car lose it's straight line, but my car does it a lot without those screws being bent. I also checked my servo to see if it jumps a few teeth. I´m driving without a servo saver (don't remember if there even is a servo saver in the kit). Also i have a problem with the car not turning sharp enough. When i adjust endpoints, the servo (Savox SB2274), makes this buzzing sound when i reach 70%, and i would like to reach 80-85%. Does it help to install the #4 instead ?
Enjoy the day people
Does anyone know why my D413 looses it´s ability to drive in a straight line, and i have to adjust my left/right steering every 3 minutes ? I found that the 3x18 screws in front holding the arm mount can easily bent, and that way make the car lose it's straight line, but my car does it a lot without those screws being bent. I also checked my servo to see if it jumps a few teeth. I´m driving without a servo saver (don't remember if there even is a servo saver in the kit). Also i have a problem with the car not turning sharp enough. When i adjust endpoints, the servo (Savox SB2274), makes this buzzing sound when i reach 70%, and i would like to reach 80-85%. Does it help to install the #4 instead ?
Enjoy the day people
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
The bearings that came with the kit aren't that great, the Avid bearings with the yellow shields last much longer. But bearings in general are high maintenance (insert wife joke here)
Tech Adept
Sounds like something binding or over tightened. Remove rod to servo and see if all is smooth right to left. Or are you having this problem under full throttle going straight ? I'm at epa on mine 70% range. Your not going to get more. Buzz means stop + a little. Lol. #3 best for most steering, but little twitchy at high speeds and you can toe out a little for more corner steering. Those 3x20 screws bend all the time. It's to save other parts from breaking and you can finish a race. I replace them ASAP after a hard hit when run done. Read 1st page good info
Thanks again
Mine was moving where the graphite piece connects to the plastic steering crank. I replaced the 2.5mm x 8mm button head screws. I counter sunk the graphite piece and put flat head screws there.
Did you not use the tapered washers that go between the brace and the posts?
Recently we have gone to high bite Astroturf. I put Schumacher Mini Pins yellow compound all the way around and threw it on the track without changing from my trusty dirt setup. Overall it was decent but I know it could be better.
The thing that I have noticed is that my steering is really twitchy now, overly sensitive to input. I run a fast servo and have fast electronics (Sanwa M12) but is there any way to tame the responsiveness down just a little by modifying my setup and not correcting it through my radio settings?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
I generally cut off a row or two of outside pins and a row of inside pins. You can also install the less aggressive ackerman bars (#3?)
When I was running onroad back in the day that is how we prevented the car from tweaking was to counter sink the the holes and use flat head screws.
That is what I did to this car.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Considering getting me a HB D413. I noticed the exotek rack seems to be a near must have. Along with the HB alum shock caps (or AE caps).
Are folks still using the TLR pistons (in order to run 2 holes)??
I also hear the front inner hinge pins shear easily -- anyone make an aftermarket pin, or is there a solution?
Thanks guys!
Are folks still using the TLR pistons (in order to run 2 holes)??
I also hear the front inner hinge pins shear easily -- anyone make an aftermarket pin, or is there a solution?
Thanks guys!
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
The steering rack is not a "must have", but the shock caps really are. I went a while with the stock caps , no problems. Once one pops off though , its never right again. A spare spur gear and lots of 3x20mm screws are good to have.
The kit comes with 4 blank pistons you can drill yourself fwiw.
The pins on my car have been bullet proof . I have taken many a nail and piece of pipe hard in the front arms on a outdoor 1/8 track running a 5.5 and have not broken or bent a pin (or arm).
Use the rack money to buy a spare center diff and keep it handy to make quick set up changes .
The kit comes with 4 blank pistons you can drill yourself fwiw.
The pins on my car have been bullet proof . I have taken many a nail and piece of pipe hard in the front arms on a outdoor 1/8 track running a 5.5 and have not broken or bent a pin (or arm).
Use the rack money to buy a spare center diff and keep it handy to make quick set up changes .
The steering rack is not a "must have", but the shock caps really are. I went a while with the stock caps , no problems. Once one pops off though , its never right again. A spare spur gear and lots of 3x20mm screws are good to have.
The kit comes with 4 blank pistons you can drill yourself fwiw.
The pins on my car have been bullet proof . I have taken many a nail and piece of pipe hard in the front arms on a outdoor 1/8 track running a 5.5 and have not broken or bent a pin (or arm).
Use the rack money to buy a spare center diff and keep it handy to make quick set up changes .
The kit comes with 4 blank pistons you can drill yourself fwiw.
The pins on my car have been bullet proof . I have taken many a nail and piece of pipe hard in the front arms on a outdoor 1/8 track running a 5.5 and have not broken or bent a pin (or arm).
Use the rack money to buy a spare center diff and keep it handy to make quick set up changes .