RENOV8R

37.5 AE front & 32.5 rear. Stock springs and 20mm ride height. Copper sway bars front and rear.

What impressed me was, and I'm sure there's lots out there that are into 1/8 also, I installed 5 hole X 1.5 VRP pistons in my E-Buggy and the results were even more dramatic.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

What's the part number for a replacement pin for the front hex. I lost the pin

bionictony

iTrader: (3)

112744 for 12mm hubs, 112745 for 9.8mm hubs

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

That includes the hex, just need the pin

seanhawk

iTrader: (2)

I agree, Mine are working awesome.

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

So why do we spend money to buy pistons that accelerate rebound .... But so many build their shocks dead or with no rebound ?

wicker9

iTrader: (4)

for the 9.8 hubs.... I grabbed AE solid axles pins #1654 off my lhs wall. Worked fine.

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

For the 12mm ones, try Axial AX30167...

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

Good question but I think in 1/10th where we use emulsion shocks the more rebound you have the more oil/air is in the shock therefore the stiffer/more pack it is going to be/have. Where having extra holes open up on rebound allows for softer/faster rebound while not having as much oil/air in the shock.

But that is just my thinking I could be wrong...

RENOV8R

The way I look at it, there's two ways to increase rebound. You can run bladders and have lots of pressure in the shock so the shock rebounds quickly, but they don't compress as quick.

Or you can can relieve the pressure of the oil when rebounding so they also rebound quicker. This process makes for a smoother action in both directions.

Hope this kinda makes sense.

Dave H

Essentially two different things. Rebound when building shocks is largely a spring action. Since it builds pressure in the shock it tends to lead to leaking and then is inconsistent.

Piston rebound is damping.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I also have the VRP pistons in my D413. I just bought a set of RC SHox for my Kyosho but I'm not sure if I like them. The white pistons have a lot of bur's and extra material. Just doesn't look very clean. How was your set when you go them? Did you have to clean them up?

I've also installed the Exotek bushings and the steering rack. I also went to the Kyosho ball cups where I could. I don't have an offset ball cup replacement for the lunsford ball studs. ideas?

Thanks!

kenny lutz

iTrader: (38)

Can you buy the plastic top shock cap inserts for the aluminum caps?

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

Yes... I don't have the aluminum caps, but I believe they are the same as the 1/8th scale #67351, but you get some "extras" with them.

matt_stomper

iTrader: (4)

Hi all,

I'm after some help with my carpet setup. I run on a track with extremely high traction using pin points and under extreme braking one of my drive shafts at the front consistently pops out.

I'm running Ty's carpet setup except for the centre diff oil at 100000 instead of 50000. The drive shaft looks short with 1mm f/f and 2mm f/r spacers. The dog bone is only just holding on to the diff cups. At full compression, the bottom arm of the dog bone leaves the cup.

A 78mm drive would solve my problem but I haven't found onto that will fit the d413.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.