66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
06-28-2015, 11:28 AM
#9481
Tech Apprentice
I've just made the jump from the Durango DEX410 to the D413. Great car, loving it so far. Although an 1/8th scale buggy broke my front shock shaft the first day out. Shite happens....
Who has parts in the LA area? I've already ordered some shafts but just want to know who might have stuff when I want a local source. OCRC? Pacific Coast Hobbies? IERC? What about SDRC?
Lastly, what do we like for replacement ball cups? the sloppy ball cup/studs are annoying.
Who has parts in the LA area? I've already ordered some shafts but just want to know who might have stuff when I want a local source. OCRC? Pacific Coast Hobbies? IERC? What about SDRC?
Lastly, what do we like for replacement ball cups? the sloppy ball cup/studs are annoying.
06-28-2015, 11:34 AM
#9482
It seems from my reading of the thread (i've read about half of it in total) that quite a few people feel the ball cups are a bit sloppy. It's pretty easy to see when you rock the wheel back and fourth you can see the ball stud is moving inside the cup. Because all of the cups and studs seem to be a bit sloppy it makes for quite a bit of wobble in the front.
06-28-2015, 09:02 PM
#9484
A small dab of shoegoo on the end of the wheel pin. It will stay in place, but as soon as its time to remove the pin, it will push out easily. Usually the shoegoo stays in the hole/hex when you remove the pin, and when you install the pin again, it will press back in with just a little resistance, enough to hold it in place.
Locktite would work too, but be careful. If you use too much it might be really difficult to remove the pin. If you use way too much, the Locktite could get into the outer hub bearing.
I'm pretty happy, we just got the first layout built at the brand new indoor track that is opening in my area. I got to run about a half a battery through my B5 rear motor car. The dirt was compacted, but not watered yet, so it was pretty slick. I threw some JC Goosebumps on the car, and it was actually drivable. The clay compound scrubs up front didn't work very well, even still, with only a blinky 17.5 the car was the fastest around the track. Hopefully my new D413 will be turning its wheels in anger very soon.
Locktite would work too, but be careful. If you use too much it might be really difficult to remove the pin. If you use way too much, the Locktite could get into the outer hub bearing.
I'm pretty happy, we just got the first layout built at the brand new indoor track that is opening in my area. I got to run about a half a battery through my B5 rear motor car. The dirt was compacted, but not watered yet, so it was pretty slick. I threw some JC Goosebumps on the car, and it was actually drivable. The clay compound scrubs up front didn't work very well, even still, with only a blinky 17.5 the car was the fastest around the track. Hopefully my new D413 will be turning its wheels in anger very soon.
Or you just pick up the Avid hex set. So much better then the HB hexes. Better wheel fitment and capture pins no more slipping out.
06-28-2015, 09:12 PM
#9485
I have found nothing wrong with the HB shocks to this point. If you don't want to run bladders you don't need to. However, I'm also a fan of running bladders. I'm not exactly a fan of thicker shafts as they displace more oil in the shock body. I'd rather generate pack with oil and piston selection. For anyone new to this buggy, don't feel like you need to replace the kit shocks. My son has been running his from day one including the plastic caps with no issues.
I still have my HB units as back ups. I could never get them to where I liked them. Tried rc shox pistons. Vision pistons and others. Switched to AE caps for durability. Traxxas xrings etc.. start deducting original HB parts away just to get a halfway decent working shock. I had 3 other HB owners all look at and rebuild my shocks. Nobody ever got them working well. Maybe I just got a crap batch. BUT!!! I do know over the HB units I much prefer the proline shocks. Thats my preference. To each their own.
06-29-2015, 02:36 AM
#9486
this may have been answered already, but,
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
06-29-2015, 05:49 AM
#9487
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
this may have been answered already, but,
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
06-29-2015, 01:02 PM
#9488
this may have been answered already, but,
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
06-29-2015, 09:42 PM
#9489
Tech Apprentice
06-30-2015, 04:02 PM
#9490
Tech Rookie
06-30-2015, 06:39 PM
#9491
Hi guys- getting one of these beasts second hand. I noticed on a friends that his rear inner ballcups would hit the mount at full stuff (up travel) so he had to install some up travel limiters. Is everyone having to do that? If so what mm total of limiters should I put in the rear?
Thanks!
Aaron
Thanks!
Aaron
06-30-2015, 10:43 PM
#9492
Hi guys- getting one of these beasts second hand. I noticed on a friends that his rear inner ballcups would hit the mount at full stuff (up travel) so he had to install some up travel limiters. Is everyone having to do that? If so what mm total of limiters should I put in the rear?
Thanks!
Aaron
Thanks!
Aaron
07-01-2015, 06:17 AM
#9493
There was someone that posted pics earlier in the thread where he ground away some of the aluminum plate, and (IIRC) a little off the ball cup. I like my cars to look good, so I replaced the 10mm screws that mount the camber plate with 12mm screws, and I put 2mm aluminum spacers between the camber plate and the diff case. I also put 2mm spacers under the ball studs too. this gives the clearance you need to get full travel. It also allows you to raise the inner ball stud from the stock position by running smaller or no shims on the ball stud, assuming you want/need that adjustment.
07-01-2015, 03:12 PM
#9494
Another dumb one here, how is the wing able to mount in a high and low position?
I cant see any different mount positions, or do I need a different mount?
Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
it's a built in feature - you can run the mounts in a high or low wing configuration. high wing is more stable on the ground. low wing is more stable in the air during high wind conditions. it was very windy at the worlds coupled with some big jumps.
I cant see any different mount positions, or do I need a different mount?
Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
it's a built in feature - you can run the mounts in a high or low wing configuration. high wing is more stable on the ground. low wing is more stable in the air during high wind conditions. it was very windy at the worlds coupled with some big jumps.
07-01-2015, 03:21 PM
#9495
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Another dumb one here, how is the wing able to mount in a high and low position?
I cant see any different mount positions, or do I need a different mount?
Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
it's a built in feature - you can run the mounts in a high or low wing configuration. high wing is more stable on the ground. low wing is more stable in the air during high wind conditions. it was very windy at the worlds coupled with some big jumps.
I cant see any different mount positions, or do I need a different mount?
Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
it's a built in feature - you can run the mounts in a high or low wing configuration. high wing is more stable on the ground. low wing is more stable in the air during high wind conditions. it was very windy at the worlds coupled with some big jumps.