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Old 06-28-2015, 07:54 AM   #9481
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I've just made the jump from the Durango DEX410 to the D413. Great car, loving it so far. Although an 1/8th scale buggy broke my front shock shaft the first day out. Shite happens....

Who has parts in the LA area? I've already ordered some shafts but just want to know who might have stuff when I want a local source. OCRC? Pacific Coast Hobbies? IERC? What about SDRC?

Lastly, what do we like for replacement ball cups? the sloppy ball cup/studs are annoying.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:41 AM   #9482
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I've just made the jump from the Durango DEX410 to the D413. Great car, loving it so far. Although an 1/8th scale buggy broke my front shock shaft the first day out. Shite happens....

Who has parts in the LA area? I've already ordered some shafts but just want to know who might have stuff when I want a local source. OCRC? Pacific Coast Hobbies? IERC? What about SDRC?

Lastly, what do we like for replacement ball cups? the sloppy ball cup/studs are annoying.
IERC closed its doors from what I hear.
OCRC doesn't carry HB parts.
SDRC has some parts on the wall. You'll have to see what they have when you go there.
pacific Coast Hobbies I have never been there so I Dont know if they carry any or not.
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:28 PM   #9483
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I've just made the jump from the Durango DEX410 to the D413. Great car, loving it so far. Although an 1/8th scale buggy broke my front shock shaft the first day out. Shite happens....

Who has parts in the LA area? I've already ordered some shafts but just want to know who might have stuff when I want a local source. OCRC? Pacific Coast Hobbies? IERC? What about SDRC?

Lastly, what do we like for replacement ball cups? the sloppy ball cup/studs are annoying.
I'm surprised you find the ball cups sloppy. Mine do not seem that way at all.
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:34 PM   #9484
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It seems from my reading of the thread (i've read about half of it in total) that quite a few people feel the ball cups are a bit sloppy. It's pretty easy to see when you rock the wheel back and fourth you can see the ball stud is moving inside the cup. Because all of the cups and studs seem to be a bit sloppy it makes for quite a bit of wobble in the front.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:07 PM   #9485
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I have a fantom 540 d4 based 10.5 in mine with the high torque premium rotor. Its a short stack stator. It absolutely screams.
what are you using for gearing? I want to try a 10.5 in mine.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:02 PM   #9486
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A small dab of shoegoo on the end of the wheel pin. It will stay in place, but as soon as its time to remove the pin, it will push out easily. Usually the shoegoo stays in the hole/hex when you remove the pin, and when you install the pin again, it will press back in with just a little resistance, enough to hold it in place.

Locktite would work too, but be careful. If you use too much it might be really difficult to remove the pin. If you use way too much, the Locktite could get into the outer hub bearing.

I'm pretty happy, we just got the first layout built at the brand new indoor track that is opening in my area. I got to run about a half a battery through my B5 rear motor car. The dirt was compacted, but not watered yet, so it was pretty slick. I threw some JC Goosebumps on the car, and it was actually drivable. The clay compound scrubs up front didn't work very well, even still, with only a blinky 17.5 the car was the fastest around the track. Hopefully my new D413 will be turning its wheels in anger very soon.

Or you just pick up the Avid hex set. So much better then the HB hexes. Better wheel fitment and capture pins no more slipping out.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:12 PM   #9487
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I have found nothing wrong with the HB shocks to this point. If you don't want to run bladders you don't need to. However, I'm also a fan of running bladders. I'm not exactly a fan of thicker shafts as they displace more oil in the shock body. I'd rather generate pack with oil and piston selection. For anyone new to this buggy, don't feel like you need to replace the kit shocks. My son has been running his from day one including the plastic caps with no issues.
To each their own, sure you don't have to run bladders but tou still have to cut out the bladder to use it as a seal on the cap otherwise it leaks. Always found the hb bleeder holes undersized as well compared to others.

I still have my HB units as back ups. I could never get them to where I liked them. Tried rc shox pistons. Vision pistons and others. Switched to AE caps for durability. Traxxas xrings etc.. start deducting original HB parts away just to get a halfway decent working shock. I had 3 other HB owners all look at and rebuild my shocks. Nobody ever got them working well. Maybe I just got a crap batch. BUT!!! I do know over the HB units I much prefer the proline shocks. Thats my preference. To each their own.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:36 AM   #9488
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this may have been answered already, but,
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:49 AM   #9489
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Originally Posted by Dal View Post
this may have been answered already, but,
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
The same arm mounts are used in all positions... yes it will hang below the chassis, that is normal.
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Old 06-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #9490
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Originally Posted by Dal View Post
this may have been answered already, but,
just looking over my car, the lower hinge pin holders for fr/rr arms, 1dot 2 dot 3 dot,
the part number 112743, " 3dot" . if i put it at the rear of the front arm, as the kit setup says to, it pokes out so far under the bottom of the standard chassis.
about 2 mm, what up with that, is there different parts for front and rear arm holders?
yes they hang, dremel it, I did or just let wear in
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:42 PM   #9491
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what are you using for gearing? I want to try a 10.5 in mine.
72t spur, 28t pinion. Esc is in blinky mode, motor timing around 55. I may try the first boost profile this weekend just to mess around. But its very fast as is.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:02 PM   #9492
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yes they hang, dremel it, I did or just let wear in
Anybody got any spare links
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:39 PM   #9493
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Hi guys- getting one of these beasts second hand. I noticed on a friends that his rear inner ballcups would hit the mount at full stuff (up travel) so he had to install some up travel limiters. Is everyone having to do that? If so what mm total of limiters should I put in the rear?
Thanks!

Aaron
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:43 PM   #9494
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Hi guys- getting one of these beasts second hand. I noticed on a friends that his rear inner ballcups would hit the mount at full stuff (up travel) so he had to install some up travel limiters. Is everyone having to do that? If so what mm total of limiters should I put in the rear?
Thanks!

Aaron
There was someone that posted pics earlier in the thread where he ground away some of the aluminum plate, and (IIRC) a little off the ball cup. I like my cars to look good, so I replaced the 10mm screws that mount the camber plate with 12mm screws, and I put 2mm aluminum spacers between the camber plate and the diff case. I also put 2mm spacers under the ball studs too. this gives the clearance you need to get full travel. It also allows you to raise the inner ball stud from the stock position by running smaller or no shims on the ball stud, assuming you want/need that adjustment.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:17 AM   #9495
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
There was someone that posted pics earlier in the thread where he ground away some of the aluminum plate, and (IIRC) a little off the ball cup. I like my cars to look good, so I replaced the 10mm screws that mount the camber plate with 12mm screws, and I put 2mm aluminum spacers between the camber plate and the diff case. I also put 2mm spacers under the ball studs too. this gives the clearance you need to get full travel. It also allows you to raise the inner ball stud from the stock position by running smaller or no shims on the ball stud, assuming you want/need that adjustment.
Thanks man!!!
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