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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Old 02-11-2015, 08:52 AM
  #7621  
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They are fine.... I've had no issues and I've been running this thing since July.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:25 AM
  #7622  
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Originally Posted by Grigz
Someone school me on wire tucking and hiding. Can't come up with anything other than this to hide wires and keep everything nice and tidy. Obviously I need to go with black wire ties but its all I had for the time being.


IMO The wiring part is always the hardest part to get clean.

What I would do:

- Rotate the motor can so the wires run close to the chassis. (TBO I don’t know how the body fits with the wires on top of the can)

- Make the battery wires quite a bit shorter. Use a very small piece of shrink wrap tubing to show the neg.

- Mount your transponder on the chassis behind the servo and run the wires the same way you did with the servo wire to the RX. Thats will get rid of all the zip ties.

- With the motor to esc wires running close to the chassis you can then run your ESC wire to the RX and sensor cable all in one bundle and use a large piece of shrink wrap tubing to help hide the wires.

- If you have a long wires then lay the wire on itself (make an s and lay the wire on itself) use a ziptie or more shrink wrap tubing to hold it together.

- Can even go as far as getting a paint pen and paint the wires black.

- Put a red dab of paint on the batteries + side to get rid of the making tape with a + on there (IMO you wont need to do this if you shorten up the wires. At the right length there is no way the + can plug into the -) But i did it anyway.

I did most of the above and I think it turned out pretty good.





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Old 02-11-2015, 09:28 AM
  #7623  
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Stock Orings are fine, still running mine and I have had the kit since September.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:31 AM
  #7624  
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Originally Posted by kerby
They are fine.... I've had no issues and I've been running this thing since July.
I'm using the Traxxas x-rings, but I don't see any difference at all. Just a waste of $ IMO. Just like the shock caps, if they don't leak and you're having no issues then why change them.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:44 AM
  #7625  
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I ran mine like this, i have this black expandable braided loom that i ran the servo and esc wire through that sits on the bottom of the motor
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:48 AM
  #7626  
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R
I'm using the Traxxas x-rings, but I don't see any difference at all. Just a waste of $ IMO. Just like the shock caps, if they don't leak and you're having no issues then why change them.
No disagreement on caps. Traxxas x-rings for 4 shocks is about 4.20. Hot Bodies o-rings are about 8.75. X-rings have 2 wiping surfaces and seem to be smoother.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:02 PM
  #7627  
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For those looking for out of stock parts, this might be a partial explanation. Not to give HPI an excuse.

http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...der_right_now/
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:47 PM
  #7628  
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Manufacture the parts in the states using high tech automation to make up for the cost of cheaper labor and this wouldn't be an issue. Heck, there would seldom be out of stock issues for any parts. Off my soap-box now...
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:12 PM
  #7629  
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Originally Posted by kdeleon
For those looking for out of stock parts, this might be a partial explanation. Not to give HPI an excuse.

http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...der_right_now/
I had no idea this was going on!! Thanks for the link to the article. This is starting to make sense.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:17 PM
  #7630  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
Manufacture the parts in the states using high tech automation to make up for the cost of cheaper labor and this wouldn't be an issue. Heck, there would seldom be out of stock issues for any parts. Off my soap-box now...
I so feel what you're saying...and I truly wish it was that way...but the reality of it is..parts are less expensive and in most cases better quality when they're imported. It sucks...
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:44 PM
  #7631  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
Manufacture the parts in the states using high tech automation to make up for the cost of cheaper labor and this wouldn't be an issue. Heck, there would seldom be out of stock issues for any parts. Off my soap-box now...
That would be a great idea. Now you just need to figure out where to sell the tens of millions(probabbly a lot more than that even) of kits it would take to drive the cost down to the equivalent cost of making it in China with cheap labor. That "high tech automation" is expensive and the cost gets put into the price and drives the product cost right back up there without the volume to offset it.

There are few industries with the volume it takes to make your scenario realistic.

Last edited by jhautz; 02-11-2015 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:01 PM
  #7632  
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Originally Posted by MasiisaM
IMO The wiring part is always the hardest part to get clean.

What I would do:

- Rotate the motor can so the wires run close to the chassis. (TBO I don’t know how the body fits with the wires on top of the can)

- Make the battery wires quite a bit shorter. Use a very small piece of shrink wrap tubing to show the neg.

- Mount your transponder on the chassis behind the servo and run the wires the same way you did with the servo wire to the RX. Thats will get rid of all the zip ties.

- With the motor to esc wires running close to the chassis you can then run your ESC wire to the RX and sensor cable all in one bundle and use a large piece of shrink wrap tubing to help hide the wires.

- If you have a long wires then lay the wire on itself (make an s and lay the wire on itself) use a ziptie or more shrink wrap tubing to hold it together.

- Can even go as far as getting a paint pen and paint the wires black.

- Put a red dab of paint on the batteries + side to get rid of the making tape with a + on there (IMO you wont need to do this if you shorten up the wires. At the right length there is no way the + can plug into the -) But i did it anyway.
Great advice. The tape on the battery and wires was purely a temp thing. Was rushing to get it out on the track and just as a safety precaution I did it. Can't be too safe at times I suppose. But I'll definitely be rerouting some wires. The body seems to fit fine with the motor wires facing up, not sure how either as most say it won't fit that way. Definitely some good advice though. Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:06 PM
  #7633  
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Originally Posted by mvrk28
I just came across this link and will be doing this method on my D413, take a look.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0
Is this still the standard thing to do with CF parts? I didn't exactly follow this method (chamfer with an emory board, wash with dish soap, dry, CA edges, more or less) but my god it was a pain in the butt. Is this really necessary?
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:37 PM
  #7634  
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what rear rims work the best? i just put aka evo Ae rim on one and HB rime on the other and to me the offset looks quite different with the AE rim being more narrow. If im not mistaken AE TL and KYO all use the dame offset in the rear?
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:15 PM
  #7635  
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R
Just touch up those white tie wraps with black permanent marker. I've got a similar setup, but with the small RS Pro ESC I was able to fit it further inside, with a 2 bank cap on the outside and the transponder on top of it.

This is my wiring job. I actually put the ESC at the back, and put down some double sided take for the esc wire to the receiver. I probably could have turned the battery around and shortened the wires.

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