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Old 10-29-2014, 07:42 PM   #5626
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Does anybody know of an orange body paint that will match the Orange anodized pieces on the car ? I thought I saw a picture somewhere on this thread with one that looked like an exact match.
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Old 10-29-2014, 07:44 PM   #5627
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I'm torn between this and the 22-4. Any help ? Indoor track decent traction.
I am fairly partial to Losi but I have one of these and I like it quite a bit. That being said I have not driven a 22-4 and would still like to. One of the guys at our track has one and I'm going to ask if I can give it a shot.
I can tell you from turn marshalling and watching the cars go around the track, the Losi cars seem to roll around with the least amount of resistance, if that makes any sense, They almost seem to "glide" around the track and that's how I feel about my 22SCT.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:48 PM   #5628
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Almost finished my build and I was wondering how do you get the nose piece on? Can you somehow squeeze it on or do you have to remove the front shock tower?
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:52 PM   #5629
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Almost finished my build and I was wondering how do you get the nose piece on? Can you somehow squeeze it on or do you have to remove the front shock tower?
remove the shock tower. once you put it in, it stays on the car. well unless you change you paint scheme.
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Old 10-29-2014, 10:40 PM   #5630
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remove the shock tower. once you put it in, it stays on the car. well unless you change you paint scheme.
Ok, thanks for the fast reply. Do you guys run the nose piece or leave it off? Does it serve a purpose (keep debris out or is it just for looks)?
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Old 10-30-2014, 12:16 AM   #5631
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If you cut the lip off the back so it is open in back, you can slide it in from the side.

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Old 10-30-2014, 05:36 AM   #5632
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Just an FYI, the Serpent shack caps do not work. The thread pitch is close enough that they appear to be working, but actually thread bind before touching the cap seal properly. Close, but no cigar...
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:08 AM   #5633
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To me, this is the single most and biggest disappointment with the D413. IMO it was a horrible idea to have shock caps that press onto the post (similar to a ball cup) when it is a component that is very likely to be removed frequently for maintenance and tuning (just a bad idea from the get go). I am equally disappointed in that it is taking forever for HB/HPI to release their aluminum caps (or even a traditional plastic cap) and if they can't get the job done they should just go out and commission one of the aftermarket companies to make them (and I can't believe that of all the aftermarket RC companies out there... one of them hasn't jumped on this by now).
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:43 AM   #5634
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Has any one been running the shocks with out the bladder and then tried the emolution style? I've been running mine with out but, I like to know what kind of feel do you get with the evolution.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:46 AM   #5635
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When I do shock work or maintenance on them I remove the entire mount from shock tower, so it doesn't stretch and wear out the shock cap. Its even on the first page as one of the "Tips" to remove/unbolt it. Yes it could have been a better design but it still works fine.

This past week, my car took a ton of tumbles and flips on a new layout at a new track and is more suited for 1/8 cars. The D413 even crashed with a car at full meat and the D413 took the punishment and gave out punishment and kept on driving to a 3rd place finish. We started with 10 cars in that group and only 7 finished... the 3 that didn't make it, I'm sure you know what brand that was, LOL

I wish I had the video of the Amain where our cars hit full meat on the big gap double and you heard hear people go "ohhh sh...t" and they both drove away.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:51 AM   #5636
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Originally Posted by luist99 View Post
Has any one been running the shocks with out the bladder and then tried the emolution style? I've been running mine with out but, I like to know what kind of feel do you get with the evolution.
I ran bladders up to this past weekend and at a trophy race I switch to Emulsions just before the Amain. In the warm up laps the car felt way more planted and on rails. Needless to say I qualified 5th when using bladders and finished 3rd in Amain with some fast competition and this is only my 4th week ever running 4w buggy.

I wish I would have ran emulsion in the first place. Also TY's Reedy setup for (4) of us was the best starting point and still running it. The car is fun to drive and easy to drive and I can drive it pretty hard around the track. It reminds me of a mini E-Buggy
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:26 AM   #5637
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Just an FYI, the Serpent shack caps do not work. The thread pitch is close enough that they appear to be working, but actually thread bind before touching the cap seal properly. Close, but no cigar...

I wish I could post a picture. I have been running the serpent caps for two race weekends with zero issues. The fronts screwed right on while the rear caps showed resistance. It may seem that they don't work , but there was coating in the threads that needed cleaned out. Once the threads were cleaned out,, the caps screwed on with ease. I used the emulsion seal in the cap and have zero leaking issues.
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Old 10-30-2014, 08:27 AM   #5638
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
To me, this is the single most and biggest disappointment with the D413. IMO it was a horrible idea to have shock caps that press onto the post (similar to a ball cup) when it is a component that is very likely to be removed frequently for maintenance and tuning (just a bad idea from the get go). I am equally disappointed in that it is taking forever for HB/HPI to release their aluminum caps (or even a traditional plastic cap) and if they can't get the job done they should just go out and commission one of the aftermarket companies to make them (and I can't believe that of all the aftermarket RC companies out there... one of them hasn't jumped on this by now).
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Old 10-30-2014, 08:31 AM   #5639
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I liked the "idea" behind the caps. No sharp edges to dig in on crashes, but like ball cups they get loose. This car is a 2x national champion and yet, the lack of aftermarket support is a shame. As far as alum shock caps go, it might be hard for them to machine the threads inside the caps. I am not a machinist, but I would think that using a CNC to make that cap would be kinda easy. The threads are the only part that might be a pain. Also, you would need to use someone shock standoffs. Personally, I would prefer HB to come out with aftermarket caps.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:59 AM   #5640
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I liked the "idea" behind the caps. No sharp edges to dig in on crashes, but like ball cups they get loose. This car is a 2x national champion and yet, the lack of aftermarket support is a shame. As far as alum shock caps go, it might be hard for them to machine the threads inside the caps. I am not a machinist, but I would think that using a CNC to make that cap would be kinda easy. The threads are the only part that might be a pain. Also, you would need to use someone shock standoffs. Personally, I would prefer HB to come out with aftermarket caps.
I agree with the thinking about the lack of sharp edges to dig into the ground.
I have worked in technical fields my whole life and I can say that even though something looks great on paper and maybe even through extensive prototype testing, some weaknesses aren't really exposed until ideas are put into real world use.
What I do not understand is this lack of support on this buggy. I wanted this buggy when I first started reading about it a year ago and took a serious step back from RC while going through a divorce, and really was shocked to see that the situation still has not improved much on this buggy.
I've owned businesses and own and run one now and fully understand that things are ever as easy as they appear the the general consumer, but they knew about the shock cap issues for quite some time now and for a company like HPI making some shock caps should not be an issue. This is simple machining.
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