R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree45Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-28-2014, 10:46 AM   #5566
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,850
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
I need more off power steering. my setup below...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lmn6mqtb1j...setup.pdf?dl=0
15K in the front, and 12 deg kickup is probably why it doesn't have enough off power turn in. I bet it has a TON of on power steering tho.

Go lighter in the front diff oil and maybe a little less kickup.
__________________
Serpent SRX8 electric
Serpent Cobra 811TE-E
Serpent S120LTR 17.5 1/12th and S100LTR Pro-10
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 USGT
Team Serpent America and Desoto Racing
Stealth_RT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 10:49 AM   #5567
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT View Post
15K in the front, and 12 deg kickup is probably why it doesn't have enough off power turn in. I bet it has a TON of on power steering tho.

Go lighter in the front diff oil and maybe a little less kickup.
YUP!!
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 10:50 AM   #5568
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 45
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Would adjusting the arm sweep help?
buyselltradeevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 05:22 PM   #5569
Tech Adept
 
billdogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 209
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I haven't been keeping up with this thread lately. I just got my D413 in the mail. What's a good setup for indoor, medium track, medium/high grip hard pack dirt.
billdogg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 07:46 PM   #5570
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 313
Default

Is Associated black grease the wrong stuff to put on diff outdrive shafts?

My front and rear diffs had gotten really stiff: they were almost posi even with 7000/5000 oils. I hadn't noticed when when we were goofing off outdoors, but as soon as I moved back to carpet the buggy pushed through every slow tight corner.

When I opened things up the outdrive that went through the plastic diff housing spun freely... but the one that went through the metal ring gear was almost locked up. It took penetrating oil, a screwdriver slotted into where the dogbone goes, and wrap of paper towel on the ring gear so I didn't cut myself... just to let me wiggle it long enough to get it free. I had put the same amount of AE black grease on both shafts when building: should I have used something else?

A perfectly acceptable answer is "pay attention, and do more frequent maintenance" . But before I seal them back up I thought I'd ask if I should lube them with something else. Thanks!
PetRock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 08:07 PM   #5571
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 719
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quick question for the guys running AE caps, are you using the AE sealing o-ring for the top of the shock as well? Everything I see only mentions the caps and standoffs and I want to make sure I have everything I need to reassemble the shocks tomorrow for a big race Saturday. Thanks!
AMorgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 08:14 PM   #5572
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 545
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AMorgan View Post
Quick question for the guys running AE caps, are you using the AE sealing o-ring for the top of the shock as well? Everything I see only mentions the caps and standoffs and I want to make sure I have everything I need to reassemble the shocks tomorrow for a big race Saturday. Thanks!
Slight leaking without the o'ring, is there a seal you can put in the cap? So slight that I don't even worry about it, although I'm into my shock non stop for testing.
uncle everett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 03:40 AM   #5573
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 45
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PetRock View Post
Is Associated black grease the wrong stuff to put on diff outdrive shafts?

My front and rear diffs had gotten really stiff: they were almost posi even with 7000/5000 oils. I hadn't noticed when when we were goofing off outdoors, but as soon as I moved back to carpet the buggy pushed through every slow tight corner.

When I opened things up the outdrive that went through the plastic diff housing spun freely... but the one that went through the metal ring gear was almost locked up. It took penetrating oil, a screwdriver slotted into where the dogbone goes, and wrap of paper towel on the ring gear so I didn't cut myself... just to let me wiggle it long enough to get it free. I had put the same amount of AE black grease on both shafts when building: should I have used something else?



A perfectly acceptable answer is "pay attention, and do more frequent maintenance" . But before I seal them back up I thought I'd ask if I should lube them with something else. Thanks!
I had that same "locked diff" problem before our heats last Saturday. With A FULL rear diff(10k) after a 5 minute run the rear end was locked. If you let the buggy sit for 15 minutes or so the diff would free up. I drained it, put 7k just up to the cross shafts and reassembled. It's been fine ever since. Did I overfill? That is probably the obvious answer, but doesn't the silicone diff fluid get thinner as it gets hotter?
buyselltradeevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 04:01 AM   #5574
Tech Adept
 
cokemaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 235
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle everett View Post
Slight leaking without the o'ring, is there a seal you can put in the cap? So slight that I don't even worry about it, although I'm into my shock non stop for testing.
Use the bladders that came with the kit (bladder style or emulsion style).
__________________
Fleet:TLR 22 3.0, XB4 16, Mugen MBX7RE
ESC: Viper, Tekin, Airtronics/Sanwa
Motor: Novak, Tekin, Trinity, Scorpion
Radio: Airtronics M12
cokemaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 04:11 AM   #5575
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 686
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by buyselltradeevy View Post
I had that same "locked diff" problem before our heats last Saturday. With A FULL rear diff(10k) after a 5 minute run the rear end was locked. If you let the buggy sit for 15 minutes or so the diff would free up. I drained it, put 7k just up to the cross shafts and reassembled. It's been fine ever since. Did I overfill? That is probably the obvious answer, but doesn't the silicone diff fluid get thinner as it gets hotter?
In getting thinner, it also expands and if pressure has increased in the diff, you might get hydro-locking because of the oil expansion.
__________________
On-Road - Xray T4'17 / Serpent 4-X / Tamiya Exo6 / Roche P12 & F1 / Schumacher Mi6Evo / Awesomatix A800 / Xpress XQ1
4WD - Kyosho ZX6 / Yokomo YZ4 *** eBuggy - Tekno EB48SL
2WD - AE B5M (XFactory Chassis) / Kyosho RB6 / TLR 22 2.0 / Yokomo YZ2
SCT - Tekno SCT410 / Losi 22SCT 2.0
WagwanBumba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 04:32 AM   #5576
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Default

When do your little darling (D413) bottom out, - i mean from which hight ? I have put 850 oil front and 600 rear with 4x1.4mm pistons and it still feels a little soft, and bottoming out when i drop it from above 30cm. And yes the shocks are put together correct (emulsion style). I run indoor carpet, and i was inspired by a team X-ray driver from my track running the same oil front and rear, but with costum 3x1.7mm pistons. maybe i should try with the stock 4x1.3mm instead, what are your thoughts ? Enjoy RC people
ColourGhost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 05:31 AM   #5577
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 545
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cokemaster View Post
Use the bladders that came with the kit (bladder style or emulsion style).
That ring would probably work, they'd have to be emulsion
uncle everett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 07:13 AM   #5578
Tech Master
 
snwchris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,473
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
I haven't been keeping up with this thread lately. I just got my D413 in the mail. What's a good setup for indoor, medium track, medium/high grip hard pack dirt.
TYs Reedy setup is a great starting point for what you described. There's 3 of us running that setup at our track which is about the same description.
snwchris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 07:30 AM   #5579
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColourGhost View Post
When do your little darling (D413) bottom out, - i mean from which hight ? I have put 850 oil front and 600 rear with 4x1.4mm pistons and it still feels a little soft, and bottoming out when i drop it from above 30cm. And yes the shocks are put together correct (emulsion style). I run indoor carpet, and i was inspired by a team X-ray driver from my track running the same oil front and rear, but with costum 3x1.7mm pistons. maybe i should try with the stock 4x1.3mm instead, what are your thoughts ? Enjoy RC people

Try 2 stage pistons, they are 3x1.4 and eliminate the bottoming out.
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 07:32 AM   #5580
Tech Master
 
snwchris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,473
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColourGhost View Post
When do your little darling (D413) bottom out, - i mean from which hight ? I have put 850 oil front and 600 rear with 4x1.4mm pistons and it still feels a little soft, and bottoming out when i drop it from above 30cm. And yes the shocks are put together correct (emulsion style). I run indoor carpet, and i was inspired by a team X-ray driver from my track running the same oil front and rear, but with costum 3x1.7mm pistons. maybe i should try with the stock 4x1.3mm instead, what are your thoughts ? Enjoy RC people
I hate to say it but the Xray is a totally different animal, so what he's running for oils might not work in your car or set-up.

I would say try one on the Petitrc setups, there's a couple for astro turf high bite and there's a couple of TYs on Clay w/sugar very high bite. I really think you should look into the 2x1.6 pistons. Maybe start 37.5F 32.5R, maybe even step up to 40F & 35-37R
snwchris is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:28 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net