66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
10-22-2014, 12:19 PM
#5374
ok, I know this question comes up a lot. And yeah it is kinda noobish and very subjective.
We run 8 minute mains in 4wd and 6 minute quals. I am currently using 5mm bullets on all of my batteries. The d413 seems to be really punishing my packs. They come off the track in the main at 30%. They also get a little warm, not much, but you can feel it in your hands. My main issues are increased IR in one cell and puffing. I am using the 90c 4800 mah packs with a 6.5. Does anyone make a pack cell that holds up better and does not puff? In my experience al of these higher mah packs in the same sized cases are puffing. I am told this had to do with the tight confines of the cells in the shorty pack. The orion 100c 4500 seems like it might be a well made pack, but they are 4mm. I know the turnigy ultimates are 5mm, but I have had issues with cell failing entirely in those. Maybe I just expect my packs to last too long. thoughts?
We run 8 minute mains in 4wd and 6 minute quals. I am currently using 5mm bullets on all of my batteries. The d413 seems to be really punishing my packs. They come off the track in the main at 30%. They also get a little warm, not much, but you can feel it in your hands. My main issues are increased IR in one cell and puffing. I am using the 90c 4800 mah packs with a 6.5. Does anyone make a pack cell that holds up better and does not puff? In my experience al of these higher mah packs in the same sized cases are puffing. I am told this had to do with the tight confines of the cells in the shorty pack. The orion 100c 4500 seems like it might be a well made pack, but they are 4mm. I know the turnigy ultimates are 5mm, but I have had issues with cell failing entirely in those. Maybe I just expect my packs to last too long. thoughts?
10-22-2014, 12:27 PM
#5375
Hmmm interesting with the lighter oils. What type or style of track or any pics to get an idea. Most the 413 guys here at our track are still messing with oils, but always seem to come back to 37.5 and 32.5 to 35 for rear. I know on a couple of our jumps if I over shoot, you get a little smack.
What we've learned so far the shock seals are equally important as to how precise the 2 holes are drilled when determining which shock oil to use.
For example, over the weekend I drilled a set pistons for an RC Clubhouse local using my drill bits and the same method I did on mine. Both cars were set up identical with the exception of O-rings. He is using Traxxas X-rings, while I'm using stock o-rings. When doing the 12" drop test his car would chassis slap, while mine would land like a wet rag every time. The difference in feel was very noticeable on track. His car didn't stop slapping until around 37.5w front/35w rear range. Once he put the stock o-rings in, his car drove exactly like mine with the same shock oil package.
10-22-2014, 12:32 PM
#5376
Both tracks are typical indoor facilities with 15-18 second lap times. Dirt Burners measures 60' x 90', Clubhouse is slightly deeper and wider.
What we've learned so far the shock seals are equally important as to how precise the 2 holes are drilled when determining which shock oil to use.
For example, over the weekend I drilled a set pistons for an RC Clubhouse local using my drill bits and the same method I did on mine. Both cars are set up identical with the exception of O-rings. He is using Traxxas X-rings, while I'm using stock o-rings. When doing the 12" drop test his car would chassis slap, while mine would land like a wet rag every time. The difference in set up and feel was very noticeable on track. His car didn't stop slapping until around 37.5w front/35w rear range. Once he put the stock o-rings in, his car drove exactly like mine with the same shock oil package.
What we've learned so far the shock seals are equally important as to how precise the 2 holes are drilled when determining which shock oil to use.
For example, over the weekend I drilled a set pistons for an RC Clubhouse local using my drill bits and the same method I did on mine. Both cars are set up identical with the exception of O-rings. He is using Traxxas X-rings, while I'm using stock o-rings. When doing the 12" drop test his car would chassis slap, while mine would land like a wet rag every time. The difference in set up and feel was very noticeable on track. His car didn't stop slapping until around 37.5w front/35w rear range. Once he put the stock o-rings in, his car drove exactly like mine with the same shock oil package.
10-22-2014, 12:43 PM
#5377
I would not think you would want stiction to be used as a resistance. The xrings which are more "free" might require heavier oils, but should be more consistent. When I swapped out the stock for the xring, I also notice the car was much softer and found i needed heavier oils. But I also felt like the stock rings were sticking way too much.
100% agree with you. I couldn't wrap my head around how much stiction plays into the overall shock package until I saw in front me with 2 nearly identical cars. Up until friday all of my testing have been with stock O-rings.
10-22-2014, 01:37 PM
#5380
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
I simply asked for someone to point me towards clear, specific, directions and yes I know you posted directions but yours did not mention a bladder and I would like to use the bladder and as you said you've never built these shocks with a bladder yet. And the way I build 8th scale shocks is the way the Tekno directions explicitly say to do it
I'm looking at page 19 of my Tekno ET 48 manual right now and it certainly doesn't say to do what you described. Neither does the manual for my EB 48.
Edit: After seeing the next page in the thread maybe I misread what you wrote before. I read it as you were fully extending the shaft before putting the cap on.
10-22-2014, 01:39 PM
#5381
All the people that thought the light oils didn't work had their holes to big. The tolerance running 2 hole is very small. Coming from a mechanical background didn't think it would be as drastic, and I definitely wouldn't think the x rings would cause that much either, but we do know what works. I guess that's all the matters.
10-22-2014, 02:05 PM
#5382
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
I've been slowly reading this thread for the last week or so along with the Kyosho Lazer thread, trying to decide what to buy for my first 10th scale buggy. When I saw last night that Tower had the D413 in stock I decided to go ahead and order one. Already got my shipping notice today so I should have it next week.
I had an $80 off $500 coupon from Tower so I added two sets of front arms, the carbon arm covers and 19, 20 and 21 tooth pinions. Got everything for $429 shipped so I'm pretty happy with that.
I've got a new Tekin RSX and Redline 6.5 to go in it and I plan on running a spare AE 1015 servo I've got, unless you guys see some issue with that plan.
Anything else I should pick up right away? Are the stock servo horns decent or should I get aluminum?
It looks like the first post in the thread has a ton of good info so would I gain anything by spending the time to read older posts in this thread?
Thanks,
Chris
I had an $80 off $500 coupon from Tower so I added two sets of front arms, the carbon arm covers and 19, 20 and 21 tooth pinions. Got everything for $429 shipped so I'm pretty happy with that.
I've got a new Tekin RSX and Redline 6.5 to go in it and I plan on running a spare AE 1015 servo I've got, unless you guys see some issue with that plan.
Anything else I should pick up right away? Are the stock servo horns decent or should I get aluminum?
It looks like the first post in the thread has a ton of good info so would I gain anything by spending the time to read older posts in this thread?
Thanks,
Chris
10-22-2014, 02:20 PM
#5384
Ball bearing "anti slop" ackerman bar! still playing with final designs but the application is solid, the kit bar leaves alot to desire! check out my facebook for details
