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Old 10-13-2014, 06:43 AM   #5116
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Center diff fluid has nothing to do with stripping spurs, it's either bad mesh, something caught in it or loose motor mount screws. I run 100k in my center on med to high bite and no issues.

I'm running Robinson pinion, so curious to check wear. I look over my spur after each run and also the motor mount too and still secure.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:45 AM   #5117
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this is big for HB/HPI

http://www.neobuggy.net/2014/10/13/r...h-hb-hpi-move/
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:27 AM   #5118
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
Center diff fluid has nothing to do with stripping spurs, it's either bad mesh, something caught in it or loose motor mount screws. I run 100k in my center on med to high bite and no issues.

I'm running Robinson pinion, so curious to check wear. I look over my spur after each run and also the motor mount too and still secure.
I too run a Robinson pinion. The quality of the gear profile, (runout, root diameter, involute etc ) would barely be considered agama 5 or 6.

With this being said, gear mesh has to take on a sort of "average" as the runout of the two gears prevent a consistent mesh. When I see a gear that has only a few damaged teeth (as in my latest case) I really think it's a torque transfer issue causing this.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:16 AM   #5119
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Anybody know an alterative to a Xgear yellow front?
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:19 AM   #5120
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Anybody know an alterative to a Xgear yellow front?
The HB springs seem to work just as good.. I bounce between gold and red fronts.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:44 AM   #5121
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I raced mine for second time this past weekend and was able to push it a little harder and got a little faster with it. This car is soo stable and fun to drive. It reminds me of my Tekno EB48.2 It reacts well to small changes as well, so if your making changes, try small things first versus a ton of stuff at once.

I did test out the 2x1.6 Pistons last week at practice and worked out awesome this past week racing. Car was super stable and soaked up everything. Now I just gotta work on driving it harder, LOL.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:26 AM   #5122
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Almost ready to hit the track after months of sitting in a box...



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Old 10-13-2014, 01:42 PM   #5123
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Anyone running the d413 on high bite? I am told we have as much or more traction than OCRC. Ty's setup is not for me. I honestly dont even know how he drives that car, lol. I have been slowly making changes away from the kit setup and towards Ty's setup and the rear of the car is just too loose for me coming into the 180s. It also feels like I have too much body roll in the S sections. I am debating just going back to the kit settings.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:02 PM   #5124
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Anyone running the d413 on high bite? I am told we have as much or more traction than OCRC. Ty's setup is not for me. I honestly dont even know how he drives that car, lol. I have been slowly making changes away from the kit setup and towards Ty's setup and the rear of the car is just too loose for me coming into the 180s. It also feels like I have too much body roll in the S sections. I am debating just going back to the kit settings.
Try his set up from the Shootout it's much easier to drive.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:07 PM   #5125
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I was working towards his reedy race setup because he said that was the easiest setup to drive according to Jason Synder. I need it to push a little more. Ty probably loves massive steering. I feel like the kit setup has more push than Ty's. Might look over the astro turn setups
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:17 PM   #5126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I was working towards his reedy race setup because he said that was the easiest setup to drive according to Jason Synder. I need it to push a little more. Ty probably loves massive steering. I feel like the kit setup has more push than Ty's. Might look over the astro turn setups

Try my set up it has a slight push on corner entry.
*Updated
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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-nv529-10-13-2014.jpg  
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Last edited by nv529; 10-13-2014 at 02:28 PM. Reason: *updated attachment
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:31 PM   #5127
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hmm, your running 3.5deg rear toe also. Toe is mainly a forward bite thing. Front toe should kill the cars entry also. I am going to dial back a few changes. front spindles middle, I have them down. And go back to stock front rack. 1/1 instead of Ty's 2/1. I am not so sure about your shock package. I talked to a couple local sponsored HB drivers and they say Ty's shock package is way too soft. they are running the 2 hole with like 47/42 oils. Anyway, thx for the info. I am just going to return most of the settings to stock. I really thought the car was better that way. I will probably use the black rear sway bar though. I am currently silver/silver.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:04 PM   #5128
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Ok, I'm hoping someone can help me out here. I have some big races coming up in a few weeks and wanted to go through and rebuild my D413 to make sure it's in good shape, but it looks like none of the diff seals are available seperately. The O-ring part number doesn't seem to really exist and the paper gaskets look like they're only available with gears. Is there any way to get these seperately? I really don't want to have to track down 3 spur gears, break them open and take out the gaskets every time I want to rebuild the car. What have you guys been doing?
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:07 PM   #5129
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That is a good question and I would like to know also.


Also, I am more experienced with ball diff. How long does the diff lube last run about 5-6 packs per week.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:42 PM   #5130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMorgan View Post
Ok, I'm hoping someone can help me out here. I have some big races coming up in a few weeks and wanted to go through and rebuild my D413 to make sure it's in good shape, but it looks like none of the diff seals are available seperately. The O-ring part number doesn't seem to really exist and the paper gaskets look like they're only available with gears. Is there any way to get these seperately? I really don't want to have to track down 3 spur gears, break them open and take out the gaskets every time I want to rebuild the car. What have you guys been doing?
There was a screw up when the manual was written it doesn't list all parts numbers (hopefully they will get it fixed asap). The diffs share wear parts with the HPI WR8 rally car.

You'll need part numbers HPIA020 and HPI101221
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