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Old 04-29-2014, 05:07 AM   #2086
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There seems to be something wrong with the kit wheels... Awww, its just the color!
Can anyone confirm that there are two choices of front wheel hex included in the kit? I'd like to stick to the Avid Satellite wheels if/when I get a D413, but there is no 12mm 4WD front wheel option available from Avid. How isthe offset of AE/Kyosho 2WD front wheels compared to the TLR stuff Ty seems to be using? From what I can see on my wheels, there seems to be more offset on the AE/Kyosho rims.
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:18 AM   #2087
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Originally Posted by mes View Post
There seems to be something wrong with the kit wheels... Awww, its just the color!
Can anyone confirm that there are two choices of front wheel hex included in the kit? I'd like to stick to the Avid Satellite wheels if/when I get a D413, but there is no 12mm 4WD front wheel option available from Avid. How isthe offset of AE/Kyosho 2WD front wheels compared to the TLR stuff Ty seems to be using? From what I can see on my wheels, there seems to be more offset on the AE/Kyosho rims.
Yep, 2 sets of front hexes. This is a FAQ, check the first post for the answer and more info -

"In the front, obviously D413 rims work, Losi 22 and 22-4 have the proper offset (22 rims are only 2mm narrower), and Associated and Kyosho 4WD fronts will work, but end up in a slightly narrower width. Ty won the nationals with Associated offset rims, and has run 22 fronts since then."
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:32 AM   #2088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mes View Post
There seems to be something wrong with the kit wheels... Awww, its just the color!
Can anyone confirm that there are two choices of front wheel hex included in the kit? I'd like to stick to the Avid Satellite wheels if/when I get a D413, but there is no 12mm 4WD front wheel option available from Avid. How isthe offset of AE/Kyosho 2WD front wheels compared to the TLR stuff Ty seems to be using? From what I can see on my wheels, there seems to be more offset on the AE/Kyosho rims.
there's a comment on the wheels on the first page.
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:22 AM   #2089
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Just went and checked it out, and I appreciate his testing. The difference between his Genuine Deans (0.11 mOhm) and caged bullet (0.39 mOhm) is 0.00028 Ohms. On a 30 amp pull, this will result in a 0.0084 VDC difference between the 2 connections. Or less than 0.1% of the battery voltage. I understand looking for every 10th on the track, but I don't think that difference is going to be felt. Even if you are talking unloaded RPM (rating you stated for your motor was 4000kV) you are talking 33RPM. Once loaded, this difference is even smaller.

This is assuming that they have similar resistance in all the solder joints. I find bullets much easy to solder to. Deans can melt slightly and lose contact area as the angle of the metal in the plastic changes, and getting a nice (non cold solder joint) is much easier with a bullet. Using larger gauge wire is also much easier with a bullet.

The average brushless RC car is going to have over a foot of wire in it. In Danny's post he points out that 1 foot of 12AWG has 1.46 mOhm's of resistance, and 10AWG only has 0.76 mOhm. With this information, you would be much better off increasing your wire size by a couple of gauges, rather than trying to save a couple 10th's or 20th's of a milliohms in the connector.

I take a little issue with his test rig too. One side of his test leads is 4mm bullets of unknown origin and resistance. Then the clamp has a flat mouth, favoring any flat connector. When clamped to a round connector like a bullet, there is going to be vastly reduced contact patch between the clip and connector. Finally, when you are dealing with fractions of a milliohm, a thin layer of oil from your skin can make a difference. Were these connectors cleaned before testing? How old/how much oxidation has happened to metal?
The cage style 4mm connector provides a very unreliable connection. It's noted on the test that depending on how the cage connector was twisted around while connected to the female connector that it would fluctuate from 5.74 , 3.54 and 1.28mOhms being the lowest reading achieved.

Regarding the testing method the tester used is an Instek GOM-801H milliohm meter. This meter applies an amp draw through the connector or wire tested and measures the voltage drop to calculate the resistance. It uses a 4 wire setup so the current passes through one wire and the other wire is used as a voltage sensor. This is referred to as a Kelvin connection and is the accurate way to measure voltage when current is applied. As long as the clamps both parts of the clamps touch the connector the results will be accurate. It has nothing to do with being clamped on a round or square surface.
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:35 AM   #2090
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Thank you for your input! I did not find any information on using AE/Kyosho 2WD fronts in the FAQ, that's why I asked, but with the two included hex types it does not really matter.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:06 AM   #2091
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Done.

you must be Australian....since your pic is upside down LOL

mine will be here the day i fly out, on a 2 week job....and im not letting the wife put it together LOL....so it will have to stay in its box for soooooooo loooong <insert curse words here>
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:11 PM   #2092
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Originally Posted by SRX2 View Post
The cage style 4mm connector provides a very unreliable connection. It's noted on the test that depending on how the cage connector was twisted around while connected to the female connector that it would fluctuate from 5.74 , 3.54 and 1.28mOhms being the lowest reading achieved.

Regarding the testing method the tester used is an Instek GOM-801H milliohm meter. This meter applies an amp draw through the connector or wire tested and measures the voltage drop to calculate the resistance. It uses a 4 wire setup so the current passes through one wire and the other wire is used as a voltage sensor. This is referred to as a Kelvin connection and is the accurate way to measure voltage when current is applied. As long as the clamps both parts of the clamps touch the connector the results will be accurate. It has nothing to do with being clamped on a round or square surface.
I agree that caged bullets aren't the lowest resistance connection method, especially cheaply made ones. Nice non caged bullets are readily available, relatively inexpensive, and can offer better-than-Deans resistance.

Again, I like to say do what makes you happy. I like bullets because
  • I think that they are are several orders of magnitude easier to solder and solder well
  • You aren't going to introduce variances by heating the plastic holder
  • No balance leads flopping around, getting broke, adding extra weight
  • You don't need to worry about different battery packs having different wire lengths (all bullets are in the same position on batteries) so it is easier to minimize wire length
  • They are easier to maintain and inspect to insure proper operation

This discussion is kind of off topic for this thread. Let's get back to the D413!! Who else has theirs built??
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:12 PM   #2093
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Cygnus.... very funny. (Photos from down under.lol)


Why am I even on the forum....

I've got a kit to build!!!


But hey...


It's not missing guys... It's just not there.

(Build tip #1 from me: there's no "Bag I")
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:22 PM   #2094
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Thank you for your input! I did not find any information on using AE/Kyosho 2WD fronts in the FAQ, that's why I asked, but with the two included hex types it does not really matter.
AE/Kyosho 2WD fronts will not work on the D413.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:26 PM   #2095
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Thank you for your input! I did not find any information on using AE/Kyosho 2WD fronts in the FAQ, that's why I asked, but with the two included hex types it does not really matter.
Gotta be honest, I missed that you were asking about 2WD fonts, sorry about that
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:00 PM   #2096
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Where are the spare parts? I thought someone thought that they would go out on Monday. We are running out of days in April.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:46 PM   #2097
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Just got UPS tracking from superior hobbies. Kit is on it's way!
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:28 PM   #2098
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Has anyone run one on a low grip/medium bite surface?
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:45 PM   #2099
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Default Another front rim/hex question

Ok, with regards to the AE & Kyo 4wd front rims working, how much narrower will the car be, and is there a wider hex available that will limit this norrowing of the front end? I'm considering this kit, but have quite a few Kyo rims that i'd like to utilise without hampering performance.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:09 PM   #2100
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Originally Posted by mtbkym01 View Post
Ok, with regards to the AE & Kyo 4wd front rims working, how much narrower will the car be, and is there a wider hex available that will limit this norrowing of the front end? I'm considering this kit, but have quite a few Kyo rims that i'd like to utilise without hampering performance.
Hmm I have no specifics on the kit but what I do know is that AVID just released 12mm hex spacers that allow you to shim out the wheels 1mm which could potentially be a solution to the narrower track width.
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